New and experienced climbers over 50 #38

The reason that political shit gains traction so fast is because our current events are horrifying. 

This is Isa following what I think is P2 of Repentance?  It looks simeler to P1 ? but it can't be because it sure looks like I used my auto block loop as a runner and that would mean I was running out of slings which simply would not have happened on the 4+ first pitch.   If Its the day I think it is there's a flared chimney down there below us that was kind of lean that day and I probably clipped a few old pins and placed a lot of rock gear.. 

Near the highpoint of this morning’s walk. Etienne was first up as usual, he seems unaffected by the reduced oxygen above 12,000’.

From the early days again, here Rich tries dancing a jig around a campfire, while I mesmerize a piece of rope. Germany ca1920.

John Gillwrote:

From the early days again, here Rich tries dancing a jig around a campfire, while I mesmerize a piece of rope. Germany ca1920.

Hmmm, I'm thinking a flute might lighter than a stick clip.

Jim Uwrote:

My running partner now that temps are dropping below 65 again

All the other dogs stuck in their yard
Mah floofy tail is better than yours
Mah floofy tail is better than yours

for the record that's the dog singing not me

Dawg...

All you got going on is a f'ing "floofy tail"?

Ha,  I laugh in your snout...

ed "Scout enjoying his retirement years..." e

DGoguenwrote:

Or Hobby / Art / Poetry or anything for a brief respite. 

Just finished a fretboard planing / refinishing and re fretting of a 1965 Rickenbacker 450.

I used to play a red Ricky when I was a teenager in my first band. It belonged to our bass player, who would let me keep it until he left the band. It was one of the best guitars I ever played- perfect tone, very sweet, smooth action, and the neck was the most comfortable I ever played. I absolutely loved that guitar. For straight away , boilerplate rhythm playing, it was unmatchable.

Today I play a 1962 vintage series Strat, mostly. I also own a  1961 Fender P bass which! I was lucky to obtain, for a very reasonable price, several years ago. That was the bass that made Motown, and the surf sound.

John Gillwrote:

From the early days again, here Rich tries dancing a jig around a campfire, while I mesmerize a piece of rope. Germany ca1920.

Of course training methods have improved exponentially in the intervening century, but back then the jig was our go-to workout.  There were many variations, but hopping on one foot seven times and the other foot three times, done over and over again, and then known as "7-3 Repeaters," was generally considered to be the standard protocol. After prolonged sessions, we usually needed a Dulfersitz bath to calm everything down.

As for rope-charming, John was several grades ahead of his time, one of the only climbers of the day able to perform one arm one finger arpeggios on the alpine block flute. These skills were transferred much later to the Teton Climbers Campground Vulgaraphone, with performances that got the audience all fired up. Perhaps his most notable rope mesmerizing feat was the musical coaxing of a complete figure-eight knot, accomplished without a single partner check.

Sadly, John retired from his Vulgarphone career after a frightening gust of wind almost blew him completely off his brand new candy-striped instrument.

DGoguenwrote:

Or Hobby / Art / Poetry or anything for a brief respite. 

Just finished a fretboard planing / refinishing and re fretting of a 1965 Rickenbacker 450.

Nice Ricky.

Found this 1930 National Triolian with serial number 46w when cleaning out my mother in laws

basement after she past. So I brought it home and added it to the collection when no one else in the family wanted it.

A photo from the incredible winter of 2023.

T Hockingwrote:

Found this 1930 National Triolian with serial number 46w when cleaning out my mother in laws

basement after she past. So I brought it home and added it to the collection when no one else in the family wanted it.

 Wow, That's a nice find. My mother in law wasn't that cool. Ha

I did a neck reset and frets on a 1930 Style "O" a while back. I've been working on vintage guitars for a bit as a hobby, buying and selling and sometimes keeping the ones that strike a connection or form a particular bond.

DGoguenwrote:

T Hockingwrote:

Found this 1930 National Triolian with serial number 46w when cleaning out my mother in laws

basement after she past. So I brought it home and added it to the collection when no one else in the family wanted it.

 Wow, That's a nice find. My mother in law wasn't that cool. Ha

I did a neck reset and frets on a 1930 Style "O" a while back. I've been working on vintage guitars for a bit as a hobby, buying and selling and sometimes keeping the ones that strike a connection or form a particular bond.

 

I wish that you lived closer, the neck on this one could use some love. 

FWIW,  the basement it was found in is in central Maine.

Hey C Miller, 

You never did answer my question. Is that you in the wingsuit flight?

Buck, 

Thanks for the pic of Al, always appreciated.

What’s with all the ropes in that shot?

DGoguen,

Mighty cute little tortie there, it looks like she must travel pretty well.

What’s your system?

x15x15,

I just noticed your location, what a hoot!

Nick G.

 I hear ya buddy it tears away at me everyday, but it is kind of nice having places to get away from it since there are plenty of places we can hear about it.

Your pic looks way too cold for me.

John Gill and Rich Goldstone,

Hilarious as usual. You both look remarkably grown up for guys who have not been born yet.

Ken Tubbs,

Maybe when you are all healed up you can come out and do the Christian Brothers Traverse for old times sake. The rock isn’t any better and you get to clip and rappel off of the same mank pull tab bolts you clipped back in 78. Are ya feeling lucky punk, well are ya?

Ed,

Your dog is lookin pretty swole in his fancy car.

Climb up the mountain, ski down the mountain. 

fossilwrote:

Hey DGoguen,

Mighty cute little tortie there, it looks like she must travel pretty well.

What’s your system?

That's Madeline. Not much of a traveler. That's in the driveway a couple of weeks ago. She finished up a great 19 year run last week and will be missed. The photo fit into the road trip theme.

I had a wonderful six day PCT trip with my older daughter.

My trip report on the Mudn'Crud site starts with this introduction:

"I really do have a great life. Two PCT trips with two great daughters in two great states, supported by a great wife. All in one summer. Katie and I finished our trip; we had a lot of fun, magnificent scenery and a great sense of progress. We’re already talking about next year.

But this one had its share of troubles - just like August's trip with Tricia. Smoke, Weather. Gear. An energy-sucking head-cold. But mostly we had success. Success over six days on one of the most sustained, difficult and prettiest parts of the trail.

I'm absolutely tickled. And exhausted. I need some rest."

Here's a link to that report (mostly photos with words for context):

http://www.mudncrud.com/forums/index.php?topic=3131.0

And a few of my favorite photos:

^^^

And now I think I'll go back to being a climber for the next few months.

Heading into The Lost World tomorrow for some fantastic steep stuff (The Lost World is a Sonora Pass climbing area gem with fantastic route after fantastic route - but best for climbers who are solid at at least 5.10).

May I be so bold as to nominate Brad for MP Dad of.the Year?

Started following their family treks back in the Supertopo days.

Proud effort Brad.

Lori Milaswrote:

The longer I climb and the longer I wander in wide open spaces the further I get from anything like Hyrox.  It might take about the same training to climb the route on this rock I’ve been looking at, which is fine. But I’d rather do the training on the rock and not in the gym.  (T.N.T. 5.10c Route by Todd Gordon)

Three pics from TNT near Watergate Rock... the start, kind of in the middle, and near the top...

It's too easy and depressing to get sucked into the horrific battle over the soul of the country.
Maybe a little injection of some climbing trip photos. Who doesn't like a climbing trip photo?

The down side of being on the downhill side of 60 is obviously dwindling abilities, but the upside (once retirement has taken over) is that maybe you can invest the time and effort to go see those fantastic places that you've had on the dream hit list for decades. One such place for me was always Squamish, and we finally made that one happen this year, thanks to fortune, alignment of the stars, and encouragement of some excellent (semi-new) Canadian friends that we met on their road trip to the States a couple years ago. A good reminder to keep pushing to see and climb at those new areas. Already planning a return hit list of routes for Squamish and thinking about all the other places out there we need to explore. Also need to return to the Gunks. We made it happen...fly, drive, hotel. And then the trip was utterly squashed by an errant kidney stone. Three years ago.

The Chief in profile from an area over by Shannon Falls.

Ahhhhhhhh! 

Shannon Falls

What could be better?

A bench and view near the top of the Smoke Bluffs that we ran across when hiking out one day. Serene.

We took the opportunity to really delve into the local craft beers. Several of them gave their lives to enhance our trip, not to mention several nights playing cards.

Isa and I got out to Lac Willoughby again today. we had not done these routes in 3 years because Isa was re habbing from knee surgery and its a procedure to get the work truck cleaned out after a week of construction and the old very heavy fiberglass canoe loaded. not easy with my shoulder issues and now elbow/ forearm..  We did get her loaded up and launched. It was cold and gray. 

Our climb Eye of Hor 10a 110m mixed that we climbed last weekend starts just right of this feature.

The cliff is on the side of MT Hor.  We were after Soule Whisperer 10b 110m 3 pitches sport. Just left of the eye.  We were stoked that it was all chalked up.. We put a lot of time and effort into establishing these climbs including some rather spicy ground up bolting so it's always super cool to see that folks are climbing them. 

Isa led the 1st pitch which we had called 10a and I found it rather challenging to follow. Most of the moves on this 30m pitch are 10a.  I led P2  which is an incredible pitch. I did cheat and used the Grim Reacher (mini stick clip) to clip one of the crux bolts..  Its such a beautiful pitch with steep varied climbing and a 40ft  section where every move is 5.10. I did fall on that section...   Isa is past the 5.10 section in this photo.

Isa then led p3 which is only 5.8 but its longer and harder than it looks. On the FA I thought I would run right up it but it was way more interesting than we thought it would be. I ended up adding two bolts to this pitch after the fact. It's still plenty spicy.

Keeps you engaged all the way to the chains for 40m.way up and right. 

We then made two rappels to the start of Extra treat. We had done the top pitch last weekend but had not been on the whole thing in 3 years. We were excited to see that it was also chalked up.   Extra treat shared the 1st pitch of soul Whisperer and then traverses in about 2/3rds of the way up that 1st pitch so the way we did it climbing Soul Whisperer to the top and then rapping down to the start of the business on Extra treat is the preferred method. It doesn't have any moves on it harder than Soul whisperer but its sustained for longer stretches.  I don't remember what we graded it?  Anyways Isa led both pitches and I got P1 clean on 2nd but fell several times on P2 which is really P3..  tricky stuff.  Isa climbed really well all day and led 4 of the 5 pitches we did. 

Sun came out at the end of the day.