Starting Fresh. Looking for advice :)

I’ll mention (because no one else has) that the risk of icefall is way higher than the risk of rockfall.   Don’t just respect the ice that you are climbing… respect all of the ice around/above you.   Also, avalanche hazard .

Pay extra attention to where you stack your ropes, where you position the belayer, etc.   also, consider whether you have the judgment to know how good the ice is, how well bonded it is, whether it will take screws, etc.

IMO the best way to acquire this judgment is with a mentor of some kind.    It doesn’t have to be a guide or a rope gun; it could be an old crusty climber who doesn’t want to lead anymore.

+1 for finding a rope gun to sandbag the shit out of you. My third day on ice was following WI5 M5, that shit will supercharge your progress.

Since several people mentioned TR soloing: if you do be very careful, if there is running water/wet ice it can freeze in your Microtraction or whatever you are using, rendering it useless.

Philippe Wagnerwrote:

Since several people mentioned TR soloing: if you do be very careful, if there is running water/wet ice it can freeze in your Microtraction or whatever you are using, rendering it useless.

I was about to post the same thing. I am a crap ice climber but a TRS enthusiast on rock, and you should know it’s a different game in freezing temps. When I was learning the basics of ice climbing I figured I’d go TRS to learn but the freezing ropes make it a different issue than rock soloing. Some people have dialed TRS systems for ice and you should be sure your system is ice proof before you are 50 feet up and pumped.

I tried tr soloing ice once in the 80s. My jumar slid backwards down the frozen rope.. been free soloing ever since. Certainly people do have ice rope soloing dialed and it allows to get on harder stuff. 

Philippe Wagnerwrote:

Since several people mentioned TR soloing: if you do be very careful, if there is running water/wet ice it can freeze in your Microtraction or whatever you are using, rendering it useless.

This. I strongly recommend not using two teethed ascenders like a MT because they can and do get clogged with ice on icy ropes. An Ushba Basic, or its modern knockoff the CAMP Lift, is the best primary device for TRSing ice because they work on icy ropes (it was one of the Ushba's original selling points as an ascender). I use my MT as the back up. Even then, I generally don't TRS if the rope has a reasonable chance of icing up. 

Sometimes if I'm really determined to TRS a line even though the rope might get iced up, I'll hang down two strands and have my devices on one strand and tie into the occasional back up knot on the second strand. Back in the day when I first started TRSing ice with my Ushba 20 years ago, back ups knots were the standard. The norm though was to have no back up at all.

1. Ouray is an excellent choice to get started quickly on some hard teachable ice!!! Climbing waterfall ice is a great way to get the technique you'll want for alpine climbing. You're ahead of the game as a rock climber and with backcountry experience. I lived in Boulder for a while and took a trip to Ouray. It was a great scene back then. Not sure how it is these days, but sound you like you a good plan to avoid the masses. 

2. When living in Corvallis for a while, I teamed up with some guy I heard about in the physics department who climbed ice. We lowered into crevasses and climbed out of them to get some vert. This was amazing and definitely worth it. Added a whole new element to things. Since you're in the NW, maybe you can find someone safe and experienced to do this with. 

3. I was a rock climber living in the climbing mecca of North Conway, NH in my 20's. After reading an article about Kitty Calhoun in Outside and how she started ice climbing, I took the opportunity to hire her as a guide - instead of paying rent that month and was homeless for a while - and it was way worth it!!! She had me think of three points of contact to make a stable triangle and had me climb with one tool for my first route. And to down climb as well. If you can climb with one tool, you will feel exceptionally stable with two. Try this on rock or at the gym first to get a feel. Some gyms will let you bring covered ice tools in too. I spent two days with Kitty and she still guides. It would be worth it!!! She has the rep for survivng the most avalanches and leading an expedition of men, while she was pregnant. Talk about finding a hard climber to team up with! 

4. I wouldn't have done anything differently. I pursued ice climbing and absolutely loved it!! Still do. It's a lifestyle with a set of values and culture that can lead you to great places and with great life skills that are transferable. I did not realize, however, that I was wearing out my rotator cuffs. All the docs thought I was fine, because I adapted with strength, but I eventually needed them both repaired, along with other shoulder issues. They work great now, but the surgeries were a bit rough. 

5. True about don't fall. Too many sharp points. If you're going to boulder, consider still being on a top rope. Also, as much as I love ice climbing, way more than rock, skiing, snowboarding or anything else really, I always tell people... there really is no good reason to do it unless you feel incredibly compelled to. And I did and consider myself lucky. 

Good luck to you!!! And lastly, consider a trip to North Conway, NH. You will definitely find someone hard climbers there, who love miserable winter weather, and who are experienced enough to keep you safe, whether they are guides or not. Hit me up if you want any other suggestions. Currently living in Vermont.