Katahdin line

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/105949051 

nat hanwrote:

https://www.mountainproject.com/v/105949051

I have already checked the routes on the headwall. Some famous alpine routes (like Matterhorn north face) are not logged into this app that’s why I’m checking.

It's an old route, but never popular. The lower part is incredibly, dangerously loose. Above that it is a long third-class scramble.

Ben Townsendwrote:

It's an old route, but never popular. The lower part is incredibly, dangerously loose. Above that it is a long third-class scramble.

Do you recall the name?

I don't remember if it even has one. If it does, the only place it's likely to be recorded is in the notebook at the Chimney Pond ranger station.

Looks like the Waterfall Buttress, did some internet sleuthing. Pretty cool overlay and map https://jonryanbowen.com/portfolio/katahdin/

It's also on MP https://www.mountainproject.com/route/110041244/waterfall-gully See Waterfall Arete variation.

Good catch! The winter version, starting with the ice pitches of Waterfall Gully, is superior. In summer, you need to overcome a couple of pitches of randomly stacked chinaware to get to decent rock. Probably no moves over 5.6, but no trustworthy gear either.

Ben Townsendwrote:

Good catch! The winter version, starting with the ice pitches of Waterfall Gully, is superior. In summer, you need to overcome a couple of pitches of randomly stacked chinaware to get to decent rock. Probably no moves over 5.6, but no trustworthy gear either.

Could I just take the armadillo approach and move left to the ridge? I would like to avoid any terrain over 5.0 as well as extremely loose rock.

Can't say for sure, but that's what I'd try if I wanted to climb the ridge in summer again.

Here is the main question: Will the rangers restrict me from doing the climb? 

Unlikely, though they'll probably have questions.

Zach Mwrote:

Here is the main question: Will the rangers restrict me from doing the climb? 

They will probably ask what you did to research the route and the location you'll be climbing, your plan to descend if it doesn't go, etc. 

The rangers are really nice and have a lot of good information, it pays to have a good understanding of where you want to go, expected itinerary/turnaround time, and how to get up/down for when you have a conversation with them at Chimney Pond.