Cordalette

My other cordallete is now obsolete and I need a new one. I don’t know how long I need it to be. I want to buy power cord by the foot and I wanna know how long I need it to be to tie a double fishermans and have enough for anchors, etc..

Also any other types of rope other than power cord? I can only get 10ft because it is almost out of stock.

For bolted anchors?

Usually 20 - 22 feet is a good starting point.

For linking three or more trad pieces, others will chime in.

If you are primarily on bolted anchors, this is your opportunity to graduate out of using cordalette to locker/draw. And if you are primarily on gear anchors, it is time to graduate to a 240cm dyneema sling.

240 dyneema sling for sure. Plenty for standard 3 piece trad anchors. Triple it up and make a quad for bolted multis. Low bulk. Low weight. Soft and supple. How nice. 

I have found that 180cm is the ideal length for both gear anchors and bolted anchor quads. 240 always feels like too much unless you have an ideal situation where you can put the anchor well above your head.

Mammut makes a 180cm dyneema sling that I can't recommend enough. If you want something easier to untie, Edelrid's tech web sling also comes in 180cm or you can cut power cord to be ~7' which allows for enough to tie a double or triple fishermans and still achieve roughly 180cm in length.

22ft of cord for a bolted anchor seems like way too much

I carry 16ft of 5.5mm technora cord (untied), a 240cm dynema sling and a double length technora cord. This covers all the options for anchor and rappelling. I keep bail cord in my backpack.

Cosmic Hotdogwrote:

I have found that 180cm is the ideal length for both gear anchors and bolted anchor quads. 240 always feels like too much unless you have an ideal situation where you can put the anchor well above your head.

Mammut makes a 180cm dyneema sling that I can't recommend enough. If you want something easier to untie, Edelrid's tech web sling also comes in 180cm or you can cut power cord to be ~7' which allows for enough to tie a double or triple fishermans and still achieve roughly 180cm in length.

Funny - I ditched my 180’s years ago cuz it always felt like they were just too short. Everyone has their preferences. 

I guess get both and see what you like!

Edited to add: 22 feet of cord for bolted anchors would indeed be hugely overkill and probably super annoying in the long run. 

Recently made the conversion from a cordalette to a 240cm dyneema sling and it's so nice. Highly recommend. Much easier to put away. Less bulk. Plenty for most 3 piece anchors and works great for a quad too.

As someone who did the cordalette to dyneema to couple biner pipeline, i get the convenience of each, but aside from top roping off an anchor far from the cliff edge, what is the benefit of not teaching minimal anchors to new people? Guides using bulky anchors also an exception due to lack of swapping leads usually.

I use 10ft of Bluewater Titan cord, tied bunny ears style (figure eight on each end instead of being tied in a loop). It’s stupidly light and compact, and I actually find it more versatile than cord tied in a loop. 

Titan cord is also about half the cost of other high tech cords like Sterling Powercord.

Hi Joey, kind of a pet subject of mine, my being one of the folks that introduced the cordelette to US climbing. The above answers are kinda all over the map, none being wrong.

What seems to be somewhat lost nowadays is how versatile a cordelette can be. It isn't just for building anchors. I would say if you are just going to tie it in a loop and use it exclusively for anchors, sewn 120cm 180cm 240cm slings are as good as anything. I agree with Hotdog that 180 hits the sweet spot. Others mentioned carrying multiple lengths, which is also worthy of consideration.  

My cordelettes are 14-15 feet long, usually soft 7mm perlon cord. Each person on a glacier should carry a soft 6mm one. I don't carry them wadded up hanging on a carabiner. 

Amongst other things, there are multiple uses for a cordelette in improvised rescue. They can be cut up for tat. A somewhat uncomfortable but very secure improvised harness can be fashioned from two 14-15 foot cordelettes in a few minutes. There is a picture of me elsewhere on MP showing how I carry my 7mm cordelette(s). Some will take exception to this, but I tie mine together with a SINGLE fisherman's knot. 

All that said, I don't always carry one.

John Clarkwrote:

If you are primarily on bolted anchors, this is your opportunity to graduate out of using cordalette to locker/draw. And if you are primarily on gear anchors, it is time to graduate to a 240cm dyneema sling.

A locker and draw anchor doesn’t give you a shelf or a master point for a bolted multi pitch.

I assumed that’s why he was asking in the first place.

For gear anchors, there is no one-size fits all approach. Both a dyneema sling and cord have their place.

Calling one method over another “graduating” is kinda condescending. But I’m assuming you meant the best.

Cheers!

Michael Mazurowskiwrote:

A locker and draw anchor doesn’t give you a shelf or a master point for a bolted multi pitch.

I assumed that’s why he was asking in the first place.

For gear anchors, there is no one-size fits all approach. Both a dyneema sling and cord have their place.

Calling one method over another “graduating” is kinda condescending. But I’m assuming you meant the best.

Cheers!

I think 14 yr old Joey from illinois is probably sitting in the single pitch camp for the most part, so guessing a two draw anchor is all he needs 95% of the time. That said, i back up with a locker or extended alpine on sport anchors

Worth it to have both a 7mm cordelette and a 240cm dyneema (I like Metolius' dyneema/nylon blend because it's easier to unknot) that you can switch out as needed. If I'm in the alpine or on something where bailing is a real possibility I'm always bringing the 7mm so I can chop it up for bail anchors. Bringing extra cord in your pack for bailing so you can keep using your 240 is just wasted weight.

EDIT: Only now noticed Joey is 14 from Illinois. Maybe file this advice away for when you come West.

I still use and carry cordellette regularly - mostly for funky anchors (marginal cams + a slung horn or thread comes to mind), rescue applications, the occasional improvised Reepschnur and leaving cord behind to improve or create anchors. I'm a fan of the sterling powercord, and it's in stock via amazon in both the 21' and 25' lengths:

If you are climbing on bolts, and have a soild foundation of rescue skills (can do load transfers, create spiders, pass knots) all with other material, then you could probably leave it at home.

https://www.amazon.com/STERLING-PowerCord-Cordelette-Purple-6-4m/dp/B07DFY742D/ref=sr_1_1_pp?crid=3FDX7BTK60V2U&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.V-oY7yNI546oc_vVZPBny78DA7WTmz8YNlJafDjFA9W5_qvnqMhu5yM5bjE9q5WWTm3a6Yv6A1LhfuDLX3Vhad3a8TnmIzM-gam3ZgpkckOra6-Mixobu7S9VfWQfKkSd0jnU5CzBrP68H7ZBVIxOYEkCklhoUE_qDwei4DD2Qh4DnqeCRvqoRuxEjoUzyfA0A9ROax--4HCUG1tig0sezl9tkHPLwgbpklksFcNL9A.Z68ud0yHIGxFzovOUweoiGJW7-Vg2yjoCnev3UtpeVc&dib_tag=se&keywords=sterling%2Bpower%2Bcord&qid=1754589195&sprefix=sterling%2Bpower%2Caps%2C167&sr=8-1&th=1

So Jason,  how does that power cord function as a prussik? 

That's a genuine question. I am old, but not completely closed minded. I could see upgrading to a new material. 

Ok so a 180 sling or a 20’ cord? I have some triple length slings which I use but I might also use a cordalette because of how versatile it is.

Todd Rwrote:

Funny - I ditched my 180’s years ago cuz it always felt like they were just too short. Everyone has their preferences. 

I guess get both and see what you like!

Edited to add: 22 feet of cord for bolted anchors would indeed be hugely overkill and probably super annoying in the long run. 

Yeah man it's definitely specific to each person's preference and use cases. I tend to find myself on tiny belay ledges making gear anchors on alpine climbs where the available features are within a small radius of where I'm setting my belay. If I was in situations with bigger ledges, I'd probably be able to use a 240cm more often and benefit from carrying one...and I'd be way happier because I'm pretty sick of tiny stances and semi or fully hanging belays!

Joeyyyy Cwrote:

Ok so a 180 sling or a 20’ cord? I have some triple length slings which I use but I might also use a cordalette because of how versatile it is.

I think that's a fine place to start.