Standard Whitehorse? Original Route
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Anyone know if the manky bolts on the original route, the brown spot and boiler plate have been upgraded? |
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Good place to check but don't see standard on the list so maybe not in the last few years. https://www.nhledges.org/projects-campaigns/bolt-replacement-initiative/ |
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Yes, it has been. It's referred to as slabs and slabs direct on the list. What part is the boiler plate? Sam |
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I just looked over at that area from top of the 6th pitch of beginners. I believe there were two bolts,both older. Thanks to FOTL for anchor replacements on the slabs! |
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Sam the brown spot and the boiler plate slab are part of the original route..turn right after the lunch ledge..past (two ancient..in need of replacement) bolts..trending up left diagonal after the first bolt ( The Brown Spot ). Then half way up the (Boiler Plate) there was another scrappy old bolt..decades ago about 20 up from there ..a pin anchor existed..gone I believe a long time ago. |
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It was 2015 when we did the work, so I'm pretty sure we got em all. If we missed one, please let FOTL know. Sam |
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I was wondering, if there had been a new anchor installed at the top of the fourth pitch of sea of holes where the tree fell over? |
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Is that the slimy original finish to the tree? We always did the direct finish which I think went to bolts? |
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The 5. 7 finish off to the right versus the one they call 5.8 off to the left which feels more like 5.10 |
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That line of black moss to the tree always looked terrifying.... |
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I still believe the "ORIGINAL Pitch 5.5 Brown Spot and Boiler Plate Slab Bolts have yet to be replaced." Here is the history in brief. History: In the Spring of 1928, Robert L. M. Underhill, Herbert C. Towle, & John Holden, Jr. climbed to the top of the arch, but were thwarted by a sudden cloudburst. With only rope for the three of them, the descent down the wet slabs proved memorable. Underhill lowered his partners the full rope length to the only ledge in sight, wrapped his end of the rope around a small tree, carefully lowered himself to the halfway point - and let go the other end of the rope! He had hoped the friction of the rope sliding around the tree would slow him down. It didn't! As he began to accelerate out of control, the well-muscled Holden fortunately "reached out and tackled me onto the ledge. It was then I realized how helpful it was to have brought a football player along," Underhill recalled. In October, 1929, Robert Underhill & Kenneth Henderson descended the summit slabs, tied a rope onto a convenient pine, rappelled down, the navigated through the final overlaps above the Brown Spot. Their rope, however, was left in place, allowing subsequent parties to hand-over-hand up it, and finish the climb through the troublesome overlaps. Henderson and Underhill realized they had not made a "legitimate" ascent, and advocated that "a few fixed pitons, judiciously placed where they could be lassoed from below make possible this 30 or 40 feet." The Brown Spot, today's YDS 5.5 crux, "throught unclimbable a short time ago," admitted Underhill, was finally free climbed by Leland W. Pollock, leading an AMC party, on July 2, 1932. The Pitch 5 description: The crux pitch is next. The Brown Spot is the easiest finish, but since there are also several harder finishes, careful route finding is necessary. For the Brown Spot (YDS 5.5): climb up 15 feet from the right end of Lunch Ledge, make one thin friction move right to a bolt, the down climb a ramp for 10 Feet. Step right onto a narrow, brownish foothold (the Brown Spot) to another bolt, then climb a delicate slab (the Boilerplate YDS 5.5) onto a left-diagonal ramp with several old pitons. Either belay at the base of the ramp at fixed pitons (rope drag can be a problem above), or follow the ramp up and left to a short, lay back corner (which is also YDS 5.5). Most parties belay on a small stance just above this short corner, and slightly to the left. (Nut anchor). 150’, YDS 5.5. |


