8 Days in Scotland

We will be climbing in Scotland, and have a general itinerary set for ourselves, but we’ve not been there before. As with any international climbing trip, you learn everything you wish you knew while there, and know exactly what you should have done by the time it’s over.

So, for anyone who’s climbed there: Where would you focus if you had 8 days of climbing in Scotland? As of now, we’re mainly focused on Isle of Skye and Sea Stacks.

Thanks!

Glencoe is great if touristy, and there's a ton of good scrambling and climbing near Ben Nevis as well.

Mind the weather. Most of the rock was a little chossy for my California tastes but the scrambling was top notch

You can’t go wrong with Skye and the sea stacks. I would be surprised if you had room for more than this in an 8 day itinerary. In 2017 I had 2 weeks and was able to hit a few other objectives.   Latheronwheel and Sheigra are in the general area of the sea stacks and are worth fitting in if you can. We were fortunate enough with the weather to be able to climb the “Big Three” sea stacks, The Old Man of Hoy, Am Buachaille and the Old Man of Stoer, although the Old Man was done in steady light rain. 

Thanks for the help guys, I appreciate it.

I figured we’d have to get used to climbing in some rain!
What are your thoughts on packing a #5 and 6? We certainly aren’t seeking out offwidth. 

I was happy to have a #5 on the Old Man of Stoer. Most of none too plentiful pro was #3, 4, 5. 

Where you climb will be determined by the weather. Remain flexible and be prepared to go north, south, east and west across the country. Sea conditions are an important consideration with some stacks. Sheigra is on the West coast, Latheronwheel is on the east coast. Sarclet is north of there and excellent. Often the east is drier. The Murray coast is another option and has less rain than anywhere else in Scotland. 

As others have said, it is wise to draw up a short list of possibilities rather than plan a definite schedule and be flexible in your plans according to the weather. As a first approximation the further north and west you go, the better it gets! Skye is lovely but you won't be the only ones there.

Buy the Wired guidebook: https://scottishmountaineeringpress.com/product/scottish-rock-climbs-smc-wired/  Many like the RockFax app. which will be cheaper for a short visit but is less comprehensive and I prefer the printed page at the planning stage.

Download the Met Office app: https://www.metoffice.gov.uk/

The MWIS is good for upland weather forecasts: https://www.mwis.org.uk/

Tide times are important to know for the two of the three classic sea stacks on the mainland (Stoer and Am Buchallie).  https://easytide.admiralty.co.uk/?PortID=0332

Sea state is also useful to know: https://www.surfline.com/surf-report/scourie/60dcf46b76517b5650ea92d0 The worse the surfing, the better the climbing!

(these two links are for places close-ish to Stoer) 

Thanks Mike, I added a 5.

And thanks Colin and Duncan and well, most helpful! We’ve got the Scottish Rock, North book by Gary Latter, but I’ll keep an eye out for the Wired book as well.
We’ve used Rockfax in Italy, but I far prefer books as well.

And thanks again everyone, very helpful feedback. 

If you need to supplement rock gear, camping gas, Smidge or head nets, tick removers or general advice and you're close to Inverness, Craigdon Mountain Sports in Academy Street is an old school climbing/outdoor store who would be only too happy to help. 

There's a climbing gym The Ledge in Inverness if the weather is dire and you're en route to a destination. 

Take good rain gear and an extra pair of hiking boots with you. If the weather craps out, you will end up doing some boggy hiking. Everything takes longer to dry out. 

Scotland is a magical place regardless of the weather.

Drink some good Scotch!!!!