Show us your home-brew Petzl Connect-Adjust (or other) setup

As a slow aid climber, I prefer 10ft of 8.5-9mm single rated rope. It's bulky and clunky, but when living on a wall for a week or more I appreciate the security and length for comfortable bivies. It isn't as smooth as the thinner setups, but I do my aiding on my alfifi and only really use these on anchors or when aiding very steep terrain. However, I would never use this when free climbing, always a clove hitch or I take apart an alpine draw to extend my rappel.

Atop the nose, I met the women who got the triple crown this season. They were using 7mm accessory cord. It seemed super smooth, but I'd rather leave that technique for the experts.

T Cwrote:

Duh!  My non-caffeinated brain missed that.  Looks great, btw.

It looks nice, but after taking the core strands and putting them back in, and then milking the slack out of the cover, it wants to slip.  Maybe too firm at that smaller diameter?

For those who have used and had success with using the Petzl pur line with the adjust, what biner did you use? I just got some today for an upcoming aid mission where static daisies will be preferable to my half rope and it unfortunately slips with my Petzl OK and Edelrid kiwi slider, total bummer. I know Colin Haley has had luck using the SMD, but i was wondering if people had any luck using any other biners.

Edit: it seems to work well with an edelrid pure slider, I think this is due to the thin rectangular cross section exerting greater pressure than the large round cross section of the OK or Kiwi. Good to know for picking biners in future. 

that guy named sebwrote:

For those who have used and had success with using the Petzl pur line with the adjust, what biner did you use? I just got some today for an upcoming aid mission where static daisies will be preferable to my half rope and it unfortunately slips with my Petzl OK and Edelrid kiwi slider, total bummer. I know Colin Haley has had luck using the SMD, but i was wondering if people had any luck using any other biners.

Edit: it seems to work well with an edelrid pure slider, I think this is due to the thin rectangular cross section exerting greater pressure than the large round cross section of the OK or Kiwi. Good to know for picking biners in future. 

I’ve been using the SMD with rap line protect pro. It’s been good. Aware of the low forces required to activate the dynamic reserve but that’s part of why I’m using it.

Erik Jwrote:

Has anyone tried/considered splicing some 12 strand dyneema to use with this? Spliced eye girth hitched to harness would be pretty slick. I have a bunch of 6mm (and 4mm, ha ha) lying around. I imagine slippage and the static nature would screw with things but if people are using the pur line already...?

Yes, I've experimented with it... Unfortunately, 12-strand hollow braid HMPE (AKA, Amsteel & friends) doesn't handle abrasion very well. Anything that moves a lot, especially under load, is gonna tend to get ratty and frayed quicker than you might expect.

My spliced Amsteel runners/slings have held up mostly OK... My tethers, aiders, and friction hitches were a disaster. You might get more mileage with chafe covers, but those will usually only work for static stuff.

IMHE, naked HMPE is great for some things -- not so good for others.

I got my new connect adjust and tried some of the rope I have lying around. Pur line, edelred rap line 2, Sterling power cord, and 6mm 12 strand dyneema all slip under body weight with a variety of carabiner profiles. Rad line barely works. Mind you I'm heavy at a touch over 200lbs right now, but I can't see how people have made these work. 

I'll see if I can get my hands on some nice 7.x mm to try out

Erik Jwrote:

I got my new connect adjust and tried some of the rope I have lying around. Pur line, edelred rap line 2, Sterling power cord, and 6mm 12 strand dyneema all slip under body weight with a variety of carabiner profiles. Rad line barely works. Mind you I'm heavy at a touch over 200lbs right now, but I can't see how people have made these work. 

I'll see if I can get my hands on some nice 7.x mm to try out

FWIW... All these devices are designed with regular sizes of nylon single climbing rope in mind. So it makes sense that they don't work so well when you start getting outside of that envelope.

It's entirely possible to design a hunk of metal along the same lines but tweaked for a skinnier cord, or a lower-friction sheath.

Example: Edelrid's Micro Jul exists because they started shipping sub-7mm twin/half ropes that were too skinny to work with any existing brake-assist belay devices.

https://youtu.be/MzWL4M6aE3o?si=dcyO97TSK5gMh2cf

This new Hownot2 video gave me an idea. Has anyone tried using a blue Ice alpine runner with a Petzl adjust? 

Stitching is too fat to fit

that guy named sebwrote:

https://youtu.be/MzWL4M6aE3o?si=dcyO97TSK5gMh2cf

This new Hownot2 video gave me an idea. Has anyone tried using a blue Ice alpine runner with a Petzl adjust? 

EDIT

pulled it through with some leverage, it slips when you first engage, kind of locks up when you put some weight on it, but I can get it to slip slowly just by standing on the brake end and pulling up on the locker. Would not whip, sticking with my 7mm Beal cordelette which does not slip under small or big loads.

Shame, thank you for the testing. 

Now someone test it with the HPME spliced eye slings. 

George Mwrote:

Now someone test it with the HPME spliced eye slings. 

If you're talking about 12-strand hollow braid (like Amsteel), a couple of things about this idea:

• Full strength splices require long buries, which significantly increase the diameter of the line as you approach the eye. So the behavior in the Adjust (etc) device will change as the diameter changes, and it will be impossible to get consistent results from the skinniest part to the fatter part near the eye.
• The naked line is prone to abrasion and displacement of the fibers. Running in tight bends like the Adjust (etc) device, it will quickly get chewed up and ratty. Nylon climbing ropes are designed with a proper sheath and a tight weave that makes this much less of a problem.

Speaking from experience -- it's a terrible idea, at least with that particular hardware.

Ryan Lynchwrote:

If you're talking about 12-strand hollow braid (like Amsteel), a couple of things about this idea:

• Full strength splices require long buries, which significantly increase the diameter of the line as you approach the eye. So the behavior in the Adjust (etc) device will change as the diameter changes, and it will be impossible to get consistent results from the skinniest part to the fatter part near the eye.
• The naked line is prone to abrasion and displacement of the fibers. Running in tight bends like the Adjust (etc) device, it will quickly get chewed up and ratty. Nylon climbing ropes are designed with a proper sheath and a tight weave that makes this much less of a problem.

Speaking from experience -- it's a terrible idea, at least with that particular hardware.

Makes sense 

Erik Jwrote:

I got my new connect adjust and tried some of the rope I have lying around. Pur line, edelred rap line 2, Sterling power cord, and 6mm 12 strand dyneema all slip under body weight with a variety of carabiner profiles. Rad line barely works. Mind you I'm heavy at a touch over 200lbs right now, but I can't see how people have made these work. 

I'll see if I can get my hands on some nice 7.x mm to try out

Definitely try a really thin profile biner, I’ve had success with a few of those options. But I currently use sterling powercord (5.9mm) with no slippage at all.

Ryan Lynchwrote:

If you're talking about 12-strand hollow braid (like Amsteel), a couple of things about this idea:

• Full strength splices require long buries, which significantly increase the diameter of the line as you approach the eye. So the behavior in the Adjust (etc) device will change as the diameter changes, and it will be impossible to get consistent results from the skinniest part to the fatter part near the eye.
• The naked line is prone to abrasion and displacement of the fibers. Running in tight bends like the Adjust (etc) device, it will quickly get chewed up and ratty. Nylon climbing ropes are designed with a proper sheath and a tight weave that makes this much less of a problem.

Speaking from experience -- it's a terrible idea, at least with that particular hardware.

Nearly full strength can be done with a shorter bury, only a fid and a half with the Tuck-Bury splice from Samsons, or use a smaller diameter dyneema with a full length bury for a consistent diameter. 

I’ve not seen dyneema get chewed up with use, unless there were burrs on devices, or carabiner,  It is sold as chafe protection.

Brockywrote:

Nearly full strength can be done with a shorter bury, only a fid and a half with the Tuck-Bury splice from Samsons, or use a smaller diameter dyneema with a full length bury for a consistent diameter. 

I’ve not seen dyneema get chewed up with use, unless there were burrs on devices, or carabiner,  It is sold as chafe protection.

I can only speak to how my Amsteel held up when *I did it* -- and the results were not good. Dual Adjust with Amsteel got absolutely wrecked after a couple of aid pitches.

I do think your full length bury idea is pretty cool, though -- that is definitely something I'm gonna keep in mind for future splice projects.

More tests with the purline would be awesome !

Seems like the ideal cord for it ! I wonder if the fact that it would slip on a daisy fall in an aid scenario would actually be beneficial to reduce the impact, as long as the stopper knot really can creep in and get stuck in the device ! I've seen plenty of people using it and it seemed like it worked great, no slipping, is it slipping for you with the new connect adjust piece or do you have the older one ? 

Brockywrote:

Nearly full strength can be done with a shorter bury, only a fid and a half with the Tuck-Bury splice from Samsons, or use a smaller diameter dyneema with a full length bury for a consistent diameter.

I know this is kinda off topic, but I could not find any data when I start s googling it... Have you (or anyone you trust) pull tested the line strength of a full length bury, independent of the eye splice at the end?

I was just thinking of the cost/weight for doubling it up... If it gives up too much strength, then it may not be better than a more conventional approach with sewn eyes.

Next time I set up my own break tests, I'm gonna try it out, and see what kind of strength I get from fully buried 2-3mm. But that will probably be a few months from now.

Ryan Lynchwrote:

I know this is kinda off topic, but I could not find any data when I start s googling it... Have you (or anyone you trust) pull tested the line strength of a full length bury, independent of the eye splice at the end?

I was just thinking of the cost/weight for doubling it up... If it gives up too much strength, then it may not be better than a more conventional approach with sewn eyes.

Next time I set up my own break tests, I'm gonna try it out, and see what kind of strength I get from fully buried 2-3mm. But that will probably be a few months from now.

Watch Edelrid's video on splicing, there is no change in strength past a point. 

that guy named sebwrote:

Watch Edelrid's video on splicing, there is no change in strength past a point. 

When you say there's no change in strength -- do you mean that *both* the inner/buried and the outer strands keep their full strength, so it's *doubling* the strength of a single strand? Or do you mean that the line strength just stays the same as a single strand?

Pulling on two strands in parallel, not buried -- I expect to get about double the line strength. But my question is whether having one strand buried inside the other causes any strength loss, vs the two parallel strands.

Also, can you link me to the Edelrid video you're talking about?