Mono training tindeq/Force meter

Does anyone know if you are doing mono training, what percentage of your body weight you should be able to pull with a force board with any individual finger (I have the tindeq) in order to feel confident your fingers are strong enough to pull on a mono?  I was thinking 50% of my body weight with an individual finger might be a good goal, but curious if there is any research or data on this.

Thanks!

I doubt you’re going to find any legit research on such a niche question. What do you mean by “strong enough to pull on a mono?” There’s so much complexity to any individual move (how are the feet, what is the other hand doing, is the route overhanging, etc.).

Anecdotally, I’m only able to pull about 35% of my bodyweight on the tension block mono (peak force as measured by a Tindeq) and I’ve certainly pulled on monos before. I’m definitely careful though; if the route is dead vertical or overhanging, or the feet are bad, I try and make sure that my other 3 points of contact aren’t going to unexpectedly pop off the wall. I’m guessing you’re in the right ballpark where 50% of bodyweight might be in that range where monos become less scary and feasible to really crank on. As someone with a long history of pulley injuries, I definitely err on the side of caution. 

Keith Baar's research points to the tendon health benefits of long duration isometrics. I do his protocol for individual fingers before visting to a pocket-centric area. The goal to have healthy fingers and high capacity to pull. I then ramp up for the specific demands of the area at the area.

nice, if anyone else has their stats on monos Id love some antidotal research :) I currently pull very little on the tension block with my middle and 4th finger.  certainly an area to improve.  

Right now I only pull between 10 and 20 lbs with an rpe of about 7/10, makes me feel that I'm not ready to be pulling on monos with a weight hovering around 150.  the 35-50% of BW goal is probably  about right.  most people do the pulls from the floor rather than the tindeq/forcemeter in a hanging position yeah?  just curious, thanks y'all 

Be careful with testing your max on the Tindeq. I just ruptured a pulley doing that.

I do mono hangboarding (20mm) with 15lbs added to my bodyweight (175lbs). I don't have tindeq data for you, but I add 115 lbs to my bodyweight for my 20mm four finger hangs.

I've learned that I need to do a ton of finger warm up before I can hang from monos. I do an entire half crimp hangboard session with a lot of sets before attempting them.

Rew Exo wrote:

Be careful with testing your max on the Tindeq. I just ruptured a pulley doing that.

I do mono hangboarding (20mm) with 15lbs added to my bodyweight (175lbs). I don't have tindeq data for you, but I add 115 lbs to my bodyweight for my 20mm four finger hangs.

I've learned that I need to do a ton of finger warm up before I can hang from monos. I do an entire half crimp hangboard session with a lot of sets before attempting them.

Holy shit dude that’s gnarly. Full rupture? Feel better soon

thanks for all the advice!