First ascents at each grade?

Hello! We were chatting yesterday at the crag about the first route at each grade (5.0-5.15d) and had a lot of trouble finding any sort of reliable and consolidated information on it. Would anyone happen to have this long list or be willing to throw out a few “firsts” at some grades? Sounds like some interesting history!

open book first 5.9 in the world. at tahquitz

pretty sure the first time the YDS was published was in reference to tahquitz.

My first trad multi pitch! That’s basically the only route I know as a first at the grade and is actually what got us interested in the topic 

I’m not a climbing history expert, so maybe someone else could chime in. Maybe Open Book (1952, Royal Robbin’s) was sort of a first as a 5.9 in the country and also as a “reference 5.9” but I suspect that particular grade was being climbed or had been climbed elsewhere as well, no? I’m thinking maybe in the Gunks, UK, Frankenjura, Spain, et al.
Not trying to start an argument, just curious about worldwide standards and how the YDS development might have a parallel history in other areas. As I learn more of the history of Montserrat I’m always impressed about how the rise in standards and equipment quality, clean v pitons, the bolt war phase, sport v trad, etc. all seemed to have occurred similarly here as in the USA. 

SoCal Chosswrote:

open book first 5.9 in the world. at tahquitz

To expand on Daniel's comments, The Open Book may be the first route to have been given the number 5.9 and is possibly the first route of that difficulty in the US but harder routes had been climbed at least 30 years previously in Saxony (Germany), the eastern Alps (modern Italy and Austria), and the Peak District (UK). A few US climbers had climbed routes comparable to European standards by the late 1950s, notably Gill and Robbins. US climbers were pushing world standards from the 60s to early 80s, since then first-of-the-grades have been largely European again. 

A timeline of notable ascents: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/His…

Grade milestones: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lis…

Thanks for the references, duncan. 

As indicated by the existence of the lists posted above, versions of this topic have come up multiple times in the past on here and other forums, and are always good for some 'stimulating' discussion!!!! Over on the Taco (RIP), when the topic came up, Donini would inevitably chime in to suggest that the Anasazi were the first to climb 5.10!!!

Even putting aside that routes at the 5.9 level were established 'across the pond' decades earlier than Open Book, even 'over here', variations in the interpretation of the YDS between areas have complicated determining which routes were, in fact, the first established at a given grade in this Country. As a prime example, a couple of routes led by Fritz Weissner at Ragged Mt. in Connecticut in the mid-1930s ( Vector and Weissner's Crack), while locally rated 5.8, are felt by many who have also climbed Open Book to be technically harder ( though much shorter) and would be considered to be 5.9s in many other climbing areas.

Worth noting that arguably the first 5.8 in America used to live in the Platte. Ellingwood chimney, where Albert Ellingwood climbed to the top (likely solo) and belayed his partners up to him. Rappelling as a technique hadn’t made it to this part of the world yet, so he lowered them back to the ground and then very likely solo downclimbed the route afterwards. 1924! Impressive stuff

SoCal Chosswrote:

open book first 5.9 in the world. at tahquitz

pretty sure the first time the YDS was published was in reference to tahquitz.

"Teufelsturm"  6a (5.9) in  Elbsandstein, Germany - Oliver Perry-Smith, W. Huenig, Rudolf Fehrmann in 1906 !!!

"Vector" (5.9) at Ragged Mountain, Connecticut - Fritz Wiessner 1933

"Open Book" (5.9) at Tahquitz - Royal Robbins 1952

Tanner Jameswrote:

Hello! We were chatting yesterday at the crag about the first route at each grade (5.0-5.15d) and had a lot of trouble finding any sort of reliable and consolidated information on it. Would anyone happen to have this long list or be willing to throw out a few “firsts” at some grades? Sounds like some interesting history!

Clint Cummins published a list of "Hard rock climbs - First routes of each grade" but the easiest listed was 5.8

When was the first time 60-seconds were measured? How about 4-feet? Of 2-cups of water?

5.9 is a measurement, not a climb. The climb is not the measurement. What was the first ascent 5.9 measurement? Open Book, case closed.

Cherokee Nuneswrote:

When was the first time 60-seconds were measured? How about 4-feet? Of 2-cups of water?

5.9 is a measurement, not a climb. The climb is not the measurement. What was the first ascent 5.9 measurement? Open Book, case closed.

Do you honestly think that's what the OP wanted to know?

Then, what was the first ascent 5b measurement? What was the first ascent VI- measurement? What was the first ascent HVS measurement? What was the first ascent 17 measurement?

The pissing about whether Open Book was the first 5.9 is idiotic. 

Is that better?

Cherokee Nuneswrote:

When was the first time 60-seconds were measured? How about 4-feet? Of 2-cups of water?

5.9 is a measurement, not a climb. The climb is not the measurement. What was the first ascent 5.9 measurement? Open Book, case closed.

It's willful ignorance to have a mindset like this. Your comment made me curious and it seems like the first time 60 seconds was "measured" was 1967 based on the fact that that's when the modern definition of a second was established and that is so fascinating. Now I'm curious about how much seconds have changed over the centuries and what the drove the definition to change in 1967. I'm also curious to hear the history of YDS grading and I could probably listen to that conversation at least a dozen more times.

No one's making you read this thread. If you're not interested just move on instead of being a bummer.

Alan Rubinwrote:

As indicated by the existence of the lists posted above, versions of this topic have come up multiple times in the past on here and other forums, and are always good for some 'stimulating' discussion!!!! Over on the Taco (RIP), when the topic came up, Donini would inevitably chime in to suggest that the Anasazi were the first to climb 5.10!!!

Even putting aside that routes at the 5.9 level were established 'across the pond' decades earlier than Open Book, even 'over here', variations in the interpretation of the YDS between areas have complicated determining which routes were, in fact, the first established at a given grade in this Country. As a prime example, a couple of routes led by Fritz Weissner at Ragged Mt. in Connecticut in the mid-1930s ( Vector and Weissner's Crack), while locally rated 5.8, are felt by many who have also climbed Open Book to be technically harder ( though much shorter) and would be considered to be 5.9s in many other climbing areas.

Agree with Donini that ancestral Puebloans were absolute crushers. I spent a couple years for work as an archeologist documenting some of the "inaccessible" alcove sites and did some legit climbing to get into those places. Of particular note were two, one was a 25 ft. finger crack I'm sure was around 10d and one 5.8-5.9 hand crack with an amazing little roof at the top. Who knows if there were ladders, ropes, or branches jammed into the cracks at one point but a lot of them had these run out slab endings that were pretty scary, even with modern climbing shoes. Maybe yucca sandals had great friction on sandstone.

Bolting Karenwrote:

Agree with Donini that ancestral Puebloans were absolute crushers. I spent a couple years for work as an archeologist documenting some of the "inaccessible" alcove sites and did some legit climbing to get into those places. Of particular note were two, one was a 25 ft. finger crack I'm sure was around 10d and one 5.8-5.9 hand crack with an amazing little roof at the top. Who knows if there were ladders, ropes, or branches jammed into the cracks at one point but a lot of them had these run out slab endings that were pretty scary, even with modern climbing shoes. Maybe yucca sandals had great friction on sandstone.

The use of ladders was much more prevalent than most think. 

Bolting Karenwrote:

Agree with Donini that ancestral Puebloans were absolute crushers. I spent a couple years for work as an archeologist documenting some of the "inaccessible" alcove sites and did some legit climbing to get into those places. Of particular note were two, one was a 25 ft. finger crack I'm sure was around 10d and one 5.8-5.9 hand crack with an amazing little roof at the top. Who knows if there were ladders, ropes, or branches jammed into the cracks at one point but a lot of them had these run out slab endings that were pretty scary, even with modern climbing shoes. Maybe yucca sandals had great friction on sandstone.

Well that might just be the coolest job anyone has done anywhere ever. Can you tell us more about this? What was up there? How do you know they made it up there? What was up there? 

Not doubting you, just want to learn about a fascinating subject. 

I don't want to hijack the thread but mostly structural remnants in various stages of decay, some two or three stories tall. Rock art was pretty common as well, with some of the areas that being the main focus it seems. Ladders were more common than most think, I agree, and we have a lot of evidence to back that up. Some of the places though, logistically and structurally it wouldn't make sense with abrupt changes in the angle of the wall and it would appear that the obvious crack systems were more likely the access point. Some still had cut sticks jammed into them where the climbing got more difficult, but they were absent in the easier sections. Who knows if that was intentional or just what remains. As for the purpose and meaning of sites, that's not really my story to tell. 

Anyway, for sure the coolest job I ever had so far. I'm certain in a couple places, due to the topography and angles, that you would have had to just "go for it" up the slab at some point. We left one site unrecorded after two attempts with climbing gear and a 40 ft. ladder it just wasn't safe enough for work climbing, we did not use any permanent protection (bolts, sling anchors, etc.) so everything had to be downclimbed to get out.

Jumbo Love at Clark Mountain first 15b by Chris Sharma. Bolted by Randy Leavitt.

Action Direct Germany by Wolfgang Gullich 14d

Punks in The Gym Australia by Wolfgang 14a

Grand Illusion Lake Tahoe by Tony Yaniro 13c

Phoenix in Yosemite by Ray Jardine 13a trad. Although he broke it into two pitches so an astrix there.

Hotline in Yosemite by Ron Kauk and John Bachar 12b ground-up trad.

Valhalla at Suicide Rock by Bud Crouch 11a

I could be wrong?

duncan...wrote:

To expand on Daniel's comments, The Open Book may be the first route to have been given the number 5.9 and is possibly the first route of that difficulty in the US but harder routes had been climbed at least 30 years previously in Saxony (Germany), the eastern Alps (modern Italy and Austria), and the Peak District (UK). A few US climbers had climbed routes comparable to European standards by the late 1950s, notably Gill and Robbins. US climbers were pushing world standards from the 60s to early 80s, since then first-of-the-grades have been largely European again. 

A timeline of notable ascents: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/His…

Grade milestones: en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lis…

I perused that Wiki article with a timeline of notable ascents. Check it out and scroll down to where they list ascents in the 19th century and then by decade after that. Humans were (and are) amazing. Some pretty hard and scary routes were put up WAY back in the day. Thanks, duncan. 

So was Valhalla the first recognized 5.11 then? I understand people had done as hard/harder moves or routes prior but I’m curious was the first “official” YDS 5.11 and 5.10 and 12 was