Outdoor Grades vs Indoor Grades

Hey climbers, I can on sight up to 10c indoors and would like to get started on my trad rack depending on which grade I can climb outdoors. Could someone please give me the grade equivalents?

Assuming that this is a genuine post probably 5.6ish. There are many different techniques and skills required in Trad climbing that you have no exposure to only climbing in the gym. 

Why open a new thread?

^^^^

Hey! That's *my* schtick!

5.0 G

You have to onsight at least 5.13 in the gym before you even think about trying trad!

I don't think it counts as an on sight in the gym if you can just follow the brightly colored pink holds. Trad climbing involves a lot of reading the rock

Nick Herdegwrote:

I don't think it counts as an on sight in the gym if you can just follow the brightly colored pink holds. Trad climbing involves a lot of reading the rock

It’s merely an “on-site” at the gym.  

Hangdog Hankwrote:

Assuming that this is a genuine post probably 5.6ish. There are many different techniques and skills required in Trad climbing that you have no exposure to only climbing in the gym. 

Ok I might just stick to sport and toprope until I know I can climb a certain grade outside.

Aaron Kwrote:

You have to onsight at least 5.13 in the gym before you even think about trying trad!

Yes you need to flash 5.13+ in the gym to climb p1 of snake dike. 

Andy Rwrote:

Yes you need to flash 5.13+ in the gym to climb p1 of snake dike. 

I don’t know about that unless you include the runouts and approach.

Having the strength and technique to climb indoors is different to what's needed to climbing outdoors, as alluded to above. Indoors it's mostly pretty obvious what you need to do and where you need to go. I mean, without wanting to sound facetious, if you got off route indoors you'd either need to be an idiot or colour blind (or both). But one CAN get off route outdoors, (esp trad) and get to a place you really don't want to be at and can't get off.

Also, remember you're carrying a rack. It adds weight. You also need to first SEE the placement, then choose the right gear, place it, clip etc etc. That all takes time even assuming the first piece you choose will be the right piece (it won't). So you need to hang on to do all that.

I feel one really needs to (a) experience TRing and sports outdoors (at least a little bit), at least climb on rock a bit, and, (b) FOLLOW a whole BUNCH of routes before you even think of leading. What, for instance, are you intending to do at the top, assuming you get there? Ever set up an anchor? How would you feel, sitting there belaying a follower, looking at your anchor and wondering "If they fall, and I also move on to the anchor, do I really know it's going to hold us?

I get sick, twisted joy out of taking strong boulderers top roping outdoors and watching them pump out on easy shit. Same deal, to some degree, (i.e. gives me sick, twisted satisfaction) when I take peeps outdoors who only climb indoors. "But. But. Where are the FOOTERS!?" they exclaim; their little, bewildered, innocent faces looking at me furtively, seeking my expressionless face for answers as I woodenly say, "On belay, climb when fucking ready".  

Kento Swrote:

Hey climbers, I can on sight up to 10c indoors and would like to get started on my trad rack depending on which grade I can climb outdoors. Could someone please give me the grade equivalents?

5.7+

Carl Schneiderwrote:

I get sick, twisted joy out of taking strong boulderers top roping outdoors and watching them pump out on easy shit. Same deal, to some degree, (i.e. gives me sick, twisted satisfaction) when I take peeps outdoors who only climb indoors. "But. But. Where are the FOOTERS!?" they exclaim; their little, bewildered, innocent faces looking at me furtively, seeking my expressionless face for answers as I woodenly say, "On belay, climb when fucking ready".  

you are a twisted person and I love it haha

On the lower end I think there is somewhere between 2 to 3 number grades between indoor and trad grads.  So your 5.10c is somewhere around 5.8 outside.  Certainly start off in 5.6 or so just to get a feel for it.  

Typically, indoor routes are harder - a 5.10 outside would be 5.9 or 5.8 inside. 

WF WF51wrote:

Typically, indoor routes are harder - a 5.10 outside would be 5.9 or 5.8 inside. 

That is the reverse of session's climbing gym in el paso.  

climber patwrote:

That is the reverse of session's climbing gym in el paso.  

He was being sarcastic/not serious 

Mark Pilatewrote:

He was being sarcastic/not serious 

How is the naive climber, the OP, supposed to know that was sarcasm?   How am I to know his gym is not different than mine?  Sarcasm in this context is inappropriate and not funny.