Mt. Dana conditions/pitching it out

Hey everyone,

So, I’ll start out by saying I’m not as experienced with snow/ice but looking to get psyched on more alpine objectives. Given that, I’m looking to climb up the Dana Couloir sometime soon and was wondering, first, if anyone has info on the current conditions, but mainly, how feasible it would be to pitch it out? I don’t have any snow or ice pro but have a solid rack of nuts and cams. Would it be possible to just hug the side of the couloir and plug gear into the rock as you go up? As for the descent, I’m planning on walking down the hiker’s trail which to my understanding should be pretty straightforward. 

My guess is folks are still skiing it. Might want to wait a month or so. 

A bit too early for ice.

Yes, you can hug the left side (looking up) and use rock pro, but you might find yourself without being able to place pro in places. Better to have some screws as well. Of course it implies there is ice to place them

Early in the season, the gully is a snow climb of about 40+ degrees. That would be about now.

Nothing wrong with doing it as a snow climb. If the snow is firm it will make for excellent cramponing experience. If not so firm, it will be a good step kicking experience. There's quite a bit to snow/ice mountaineering, which is the very foundation of alpinism. To be a good alpinist you need the skills for all of it. In medium to softer snow, an ice ace in a T slot can be a good anchor. But you would probably need 3 ice axes in the party. The leader will have one, one will be buried, and the 3rd axe is for digging the anchor out.

The glacier route on Conness can also be a good introductory snow climb.

If you are very inexperienced, consider starting with a basic snow climbing class. 

I am not sure, but Alois might be able to help you with that?

Long ago, but not far away, about same time of year

Nathan, the best thing to do, is to go up there and check the gully out. As Eric points out, nothing wrong with doing it as a snow climb. You might even solo it if there is enough snow.

You seem to have enough technical (rock) experience to know what you are getting into. Might be a great weekend trip.

Was just up there 2 days ago (6/10), here are some pics. Not sure if this is helpful but you can see Dana and a little bit more...

Alois Smrzwrote:

Nathan, the best thing to do, is to go up there and check the gully out. As Eric points out, nothing wrong with doing it as a snow climb. You might even solo it if there is enough snow.

You seem to have enough technical (rock) experience to know what you are getting into. Might be a great weekend trip.

Thank you everyone for your input! Alois, I ended up doing just that-- I went up yesterday, and besides being pretty windy, conditions were great. Snow felt bomber-- firm but not icy except for a couple of spots. Most of those areas I just traversed around except near the top were I used my axe to chop out bigger steps. Felt similar to the last couple hundred feet of the Mountaineer's Route up Whitney I did last April except a lot less sketchy lol (I was less used to the exposure then and a lot more tired too). 

Nathan, that's the way to do it. Congrats.....

Hey Nathan, good deal! Glad it went well!

It's almost exactly 50 years ago I made my first trip up Dana Couloir, by myself as well. Looks like about the same conditions. I remember the whole day pretty well. I slept in my Volkswagen at the pull out and was under way at the first hint of daylight. I had perfect cramponing snow the whole way, and was down in the Tuolumne Meadows store parking lot about 10AM. The part I remember best is upon relating what I'd been up to, Dale Bard looked at me and said "you mean you've been to the top of Mt. Dana already this morning?". That sure put a smile on my face.

Even if Dale wasn't there to greet you,  I hope your day put a smile on your face too.

There's more story to that day for me too. But I probably said too much already. 

Nathan Sweeneywrote:

Thank you everyone for your input! Alois, I ended up doing just that-- I went up yesterday, and besides being pretty windy, conditions were great. Snow felt bomber-- firm but not icy except for a couple of spots. Most of those areas I just traversed around except near the top were I used my axe to chop out bigger steps. Felt similar to the last couple hundred feet of the Mountaineer's Route up Whitney I did last April except a lot less sketchy lol (I was less used to the exposure then and a lot more tired too). 

Thank you for your report.  Can I ask about the mosquito and general snow conditions in the region ~ 9000-10,000 ft?  It looks like most of the now is gone.  How about them bugs at sunset? 

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Love ice and rock, but I'm not sure I'm brave enough to face serious mozzies while backpacking. 

I still haven't done Dana Couloir, but I would like to some day.  Would be more excited if there were actually any ice. 

I should mention I know someone who's knee was taken out by a boulder in Dana Couloir, so please do watch for rockfall and finish before the sun hits it. 

-TPC

thepirate1wrote:

Thank you for your report.  Can I ask about the mosquito and general snow conditions in the region ~ 9000-10,000 ft?  It looks like most of the now is gone.  How about them bugs at sunset? 

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Love ice and rock, but I'm not sure I'm brave enough to face serious mozzies while backpacking. 

I still haven't done Dana Couloir, but I would like to some day.  Would be more excited if there were actually any ice. 

I should mention I know someone who's knee was taken out by a boulder in Dana Couloir, so please do watch for rockfall and finish before the sun hits it. 

-TPC

I just spent lots of time in tuoleme from late June to July 3rd. The mosquitos were vicious in those zones, especially just before sunset/after sunrise. Bring deet and climb/hike quick and you should be able to lose em.