Short-Power Endurance Training (AKA Anaerobic Capacity)

Hey everyone!
I’ve been working on a short-power endurance route lately and wanted to get a quick take on one aspect of my training.

I’m really close to sending, so I decided to train specifically for it. I built a circuit on the Tension Board 2: two (2) hard problems linked back-to-back, rest for 2 minutes on the best jugs at the top on the second problem, then drop down and link two (2) more problems. The intensity and duration match the feel of my route pretty well.

I’m running this as a 4x4-style workout with a 1:2 work-to-rest ratio (5 minutes on / 10 minutes off). On my last session, I sent the circuit on the first go, almost got it on the second, but was pretty far from linking it on sets 3 and 4 — though I still kept climbing after falling until I was too tired to pull-on and continue.

Here’s my question:
Would it make more sense to lower the overall intensity so I can complete all 4 sets, adjust the difficulty of sets 3 and 4, or increase the rest time between sets?

Thanks in advance!

You have probably thought this through properly, so this might sound like an open door, but in order to train for a specific objective it’s generally more productive to train at a lower intensity than the actual objective. A marathon runner works towards the marathon distance slowly and steadily. The same logic applies to training for climbing.

I would adjust the difficulty so you can complete all reps and then work to increase the difficulty gradually. 

I think you are slightly abusing the set and rep terminology. It sounds like you are punting on sets 3 and 4 which is definitely bad for any exercise so you should dial back the intensity of the circuit. Keep the relative difficulty of each boulder (rep) in the circuit mirroring your project for maximum energy system specificity. 

Generally, punting on the last rep of the last set is okay but any more than that and you should check the ego and ask yourself some questions. Pulling back on and climbing is okay but it sort of defeats the purpose of planning out a circuit.

Israel R wrote:

I think you are slightly abusing the set and rep terminology. It sounds like you are punting on sets 3 and 4 which is definitely bad for any exercise so you should dial back the intensity of the circuit. Keep the relative difficulty of each boulder (rep) in the circuit mirroring your project for maximum energy system specificity. 

Generally, punting on the last rep of the last set is okay but any more than that and you should check the ego and ask yourself some questions. Pulling back on and climbing is okay but it sort of defeats the purpose of planning out a circuit.

Thanks for your comment. You are correct with the set/rep terminology. How do you suggest adjusting the intensity of the circuit while keeping the difficulty of each boulder mirroring the project? More rest in between sets?

You'll have to tinker. If resting a couple more minutes means you complete all the sets then that works. I dunno what the optimal work/rest ratio for ancap training is but that's something you should maybe look up and keep in mind.

Otherwise you can tweak your existing boulders or sub in new ones. Even something like making boulder 2 use one slightly better hold can have big cumulative effects by set 4. Play around and don't worry too much about things being exact. Priorities 1 and 2 are using the right energy system and successfully completing the exercise. Matching the feel and tempo of your project is a much squishier objective short of setting an actual replica.

Is there a reason you are structuring the set the way you are, with the 2 min rest on the jugs after 2 problems, before doing two more? Why not do just a straight 4x4? I personally would just do 4x4 without a 2 min rest halfway through the set, so (4 problems without a break, then ~4 min rest)x4

Assuming that you had only just tried this circuit once or twice, the intensity sounds about right to me. You should be completing set 1, barely 2, and getting failure on sets 3-4, when you first start doing them. And the fitness ramps up amazingly fast, once you start doing your set 2x a week.

Lena chita wrote:

Is there a reason you are structuring the set the way you are, with the 2 min rest on the jugs after 2 problems, before doing two more? Why not do just a straight 4x4? I personally would just do 4x4 without a 2 min rest halfway through the set, so (4 problems without a break, then ~4 min rest)x4

Assuming that you had only just tried this circuit once or twice, the intensity sounds about right to me. You should be completing set 1, barely 2, and getting failure on sets 3-4, when you first start doing them. And the fitness ramps up amazingly fast, once you start doing your set 2x a week.

Great question, thanks for the insight!

Yeah, the reason I added the 2-minute rest in the middle is to better mimic the actual structure of my project. Which has a good jug rest halfway up, from filming myself on it, I know I rest there for 2 mins. It's definitely not a full recovery, but definitely enough to lower the heart rate before the final crux. So I was trying to reflect that in the circuit.

That said, I totally see the value in just doing a straight 4x4, maybe a better pure fitness builder, but a the same time the set will last 2-3 mins, where climbing my whole route is more like 5 minutes.

And yeah, I’ve only done the session twice so far, so it’s good to hear the progression sounds normal. I’ll try to hammer it twice a week and see how it ramps up. Appreciate the input!