WTB Lamoille Canyon Guidebook

Hi y'all-

My husband and I are going to the Rubies in Nevada this July for some hiking, camping, and hopefully some climbing. Finding a guidebook for the Ruby Mountains is next to impossible- does anyone have a copy that they are willing to part with for a reasonable price? Or even loan it out for a month and I'll ship it back to you.

Thanks!

Hey Tori!

I spent last summer in Elko, just outside of the Rubies, and explored much (at least the easily accessible portion) of the mountain range. Much of it is undocumented and what is documented in the only small guidebook is not very comprehensive (I think it's from 2003 or so). Additionally, I did a ton of bouldering up Lamoille Canyon, some of which had probably been done before and much which had not. Overall there are some bolted sport climbs and at least a few trad climbs in the canyon. Expect the style to be somewhat different as the rock leads itself to some confusing but fun movement!

Additionally, there is a small amount further south at Harrison Pass and some climbing east at Angel Lake. Regardless of the place you're climbing and whether it's sport or trad or bouldering, expect it to be an adventure! It's very beautiful out there.

Lastly, I do have a guidebook I can pass on if you'd like to see it despite the lack of comprehensive information. Just PM me and I can get it to you!

PM'd you! Thank you so much!

Tori/Kyle, do either of you still have this guidebook? I'd love to check it out.

There is an ancient video of the bouldering in lamoille somewhere in the darker nethers of YouTube. I believe there’s also an old dr. Topo floating around 

I saw one or two short videos on bouldering, but I keep seeing little comments about all the climbing routes already established, and the amount of potential. I'm looking for any and all established sport or trad routes in the area. ...dr. Topo?

Did a lot of the area get burned a couple of years ago?

I went there for a day last fall and can confirm there is a lot of potential 

The book is by no means a holy grail, you can walk up to almost any good looking crag and find routes ranging from modern back to the times of smc hangers. 

Thanks for the replies. If anyone wants to explore share or go exploring/climbing I'm in Ely for awhile. I'm not a great climber but I have the gear and can catch a fall.

There is little documented rock climbing and/or bouldering in the Rubies. The guidebook is pretty old, the climbs in it are hard to find and most have very old pro. Rubies do have quite a bit of hiking trails, backpacking and off trail hiking. There are several summit climbs there that are worth doing. I'm aware of Thomas Mtn (class 2), Mt Fitzgerald summit scramble (steep 3rd class), Snow Lake Peak (stiff 4th if solo) and Verde Peak ( long approach, class 3), also the esthetic Mt Gilbert (long class 3). The Ruby Crest Trail (best in the fall) is awesome when you can catch the colors changing (around October 1st).

There is quite a bit of unexplored terrain for good alpine rock climbs. Some of the ridges on the peaks around Lamoille Canyon could produce excellent alpine climbs. You would need to explore quite a bit.  I think the few locals that climb there keep things quiet. I don't blame them, the place has so much potential. My wife and I have scrambled and hiked there for the last 5-6 summers and like the place very much. 

There must be some great ice climbing in the canyon as well, there are many water drips off the walls that must freeze well and form in winter. I have not seen the canyon in winter though...

I have, and yes there is steep ice

Jay Goodwinwrote:

I have, and yes there is steep ice

There is a flow that if it ever touches down, may be the most bad ass route in the lower 48, it got close in 1990, I was getting ready to buy a plane ticket for a colo partner. The ruby heli ski klowns were also watching it.  Gets too much sun. 

...sweet. But what do you know that goes?

I spent several years out in that area and might be able to dig up the Lamoille guidebook if someone is still interested.

James Arnoldwrote:

I spent several years out in that area and might be able to dig up the Lamoille guidebook if someone is still interested.

If the OP doesn't want the book, I'll buy it from you. We've hiked the ruby crest trail and spent a lot of time in the area. I'm more interested in the skiing although the rock can be beautiful.

Yeah we are looking to grab a sled for the winter out here to access as much as we can. @jame Arnold I am definitely interested in buying the book from you or any local guide if you find them. For everyone else I'll be in Ely for at least a year so please reach out and we can explore. I may pursue putting a guide together. I've spoken with a few first ascensonists and will peice together the info I got for myself, so maybe it'll turn into an update everyone can use.

If anyone still has an old copy they'd be willing to part with--even temporarily--I'd love to buy or borrow one.

I am moving to Elko this summer and would be interested in any guidebooks or topos. Also looking for partners! DM me!

Theres been alot of momentum in the community here in Ely. We have a bunch of new lines developed and looking to grow the tribe.  Local guide to Ely is in the works. 

https://m.facebook.com/61556109577505/

https://app.joinit.com/o/eastern-nevada-climbers-alliance