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UP Mocc Peeling Rubber Repair

Original Post
Mark T · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Nov 2023 · Points: 0

I recently got Unparalleled Moccs mostly to use for thin cracks. I’ve really been liking them for this purpose, but almost right away the rubber on the top of the shoe started to peel back. Curious what others have done to fix this; I’ve seen people tape but want a cleaner fix.

I was thinking of lightly sanding the underside of the rubber, applying shoe-goo, and weighting down heavily to dry. Applying Grip Seal between the two pieces of rubber afterwards is something else I’ve seen recommended I was thinking of doing as well.

Does this sound like a good fix? Any other recs? Thanks

Gunkiemike · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2009 · Points: 3,732

Barge cement

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

For these kind of shoe repairs I have consistently found the best results are with superglue. 

Mark T · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Nov 2023 · Points: 0
rock climbing wrote:

Get them resoled, shoes look like they are ready for a resole. Most places would fix stuff like that for  free. If they are not ready for a resole, stop climbing cracks until they need one  

Seb I right, crazy glued is the best solution. You want to use the flexible crazy glue and use it on new shoes before they start delaminating. You want to fill the gap between the leather and rubber that way you will not catch the edge in the crack  

Please don’t ask what is the best resoler or where to do it. 

A resole? This happened after a few pitches of thin cracks in the creek, have climbed maybe 15 pitches total in them. As for not climbing cracks with them: that is specifically why I got them. Love them for that purpose as they let me jam thin sizes, but they would not be my first choice for other applications.

For the crazy glue, you mean applying to a new pair as a preventative measure?

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 77
Gunkiemikewrote:

Barge cement

This is the way. The yellow can if you can get it (hard in CA).
The blue one uses a different solvent...it's toluene free, have not tried it but heard it's not as good as the OG yellow can.

Cosmic Hotdog · · California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 432

I've been supergluing mine every couple weeks. It doesn't hold for long and it's my only complaint about those shoes - I love them but it's very annoying to deal with that rubber peeling back so often.

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 77
Cosmic Hotdogwrote:

I've been supergluing mine every couple weeks. It doesn't hold for long and it's my only complaint about those shoes - I love them but it's very annoying to deal with that rubber peeling back so often.

The new release has a different toe patch maybe to mitigate this issue.....

Camdon Kay · · Idaho · Joined Mar 2021 · Points: 4,328

I believe his are the newer style. I have 2 pairs of the older style that have both been resoled, and neither of them have ever peeled like this. 

Cosmic Hotdog · · California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 432
Mr Rogerswrote:

The new release has a different toe patch maybe to mitigate this issue.....

Shoot! I have two pairs of the old style, I didn't know they'd revamped it. Good to know

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 77
Camdon Kaywrote:

I believe his are the newer style. I have 2 pairs of the older style that have both been resoled, and neither of them have ever peeled like this. 

it does appear OPs are the new style after actually using my eyes to their fullest extent. I had it happen on one of my old style UpMoccs though too. Wasn't the front but the side. Curiouser and curiouser.

The point still remains: Barge Cement is the answer if you want a glue that is what many resolers/cobblers use.
Tangential: However, for vulcanized rubber to vulcanized rubber (climbing rubber is SBR rubber which is vulcanized) using a vulcanizing cement is arguably better. But most climbing shoes are not bonding SBR to SBR except where there is some overlap of those materials so not really needed.

Mark T · · Bozeman, MT · Joined Nov 2023 · Points: 0

Here is another picture if it helps clarify, not familiar with the old ones but they seem like the new ones based on looking at some pics? Also bought them retail so presumably new.

Will give the barge cement a try and report back, thanks

mountainhick · · Black Hawk, Franktown, CO · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 120
Mark Twrote:

Here is another picture if it helps clarify, not familiar with the old ones but they seem like the new ones based on looking at some pics? Also bought them retail so presumably new.

Will give the barge cement a try and report back, thanks


If you are not familiar with barge, find a youtube vid or three about how to use it for climbing shoe repair/resole

It is contact cement, not glue. You have to scrupulously clean the surfaces to be joined including removing any oils from your own skin/fingerips touching the materials. Acetone and absorbent cloth to blot the liquid helps, but do overdo it, acetone can loosen more glue. The cement then gets applied to both surfaces, and allow to dry thoroughly before sticking them together. Then heat it up a bit which helps activate the adhesive.  I use a heat gun. Press together, and use pressure. I would try to use a clamp or two and wood cauls as needed to exert pressure on the whole repair, and leave it clamped for a couple hours.

T T · · phx · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 707

i used shoe glue to fix mine. and will preemptively reinforce the next pair i get. 

Mark Webster · · Tacoma · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 240

There is a much better glue than Barge cement. Go to any old school cobbler and ask them what they use. It's made in Germany. It's expensive but well worth the cost. It does dry out if you decant it into smaller bottles so beware. Very stinky too...which is why it's good. You can sometimes find it on Amazon but not right now. I've used  this both on my rock shoes and on numerous other leather crafting projects.

https://sewingsupplydepot.com/products/renia-colle-de-cologne-850g-1l

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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