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Favorite Endurance Workouts (non ARC)
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Thanks for these ideas and input everyone! I'm definitely gonna put some of these to use. |
blakeherrington wrote: Have you implemented any of the advice in the last 3 weeks, and if so have how has your endurance felt? Any anecdotal or empirical progressions? |
Connor Varney wrote: I have had more time and weather to climb outside so i have been able to climb outside 2x per week (short and sweet sessions mostly doing pitches i know) including - back-to-backs when possible on non-limit ones, and some microtrax routines. As far as indoor training I've been doing 2x a week as well using some ideas from here. 1 day/week has been power (moonboard projects, weighted pullups, max hangs) . 1 day/week has been indoor endurance (speed running the 12 easiest moonboard v5 benchmarks as fast as possible, doing 25 v4/v5 benchmarks in 25 mins, and traversing into a moonboard problem and doing it tired, then hanging on awkward holds and/or in a weird press/stem and trying to do another traverse->BP->traverse, and doing 7/3 repeaters on a 20mm edge to failure. I think it's been working! Wish I could brag that had succeeded on my goal pitch, but it's feeling closer. I am planning on cutting out the "power" and just doing more sprint-ish (not sure if power endurance is the right term) stuff for the next 3-4 weeks. The route I'm working on seems like it would take about 5-6mins start to finish, so I was planning on doing the couple days/week indoors being very specific to that timeline. (maybe 6x set moonboard boulders in 6 mins w/ on the wall jug or undercling "resting" in between, or find some hangboard holds I can cycle through on repeaters and fail at about 5-6mins and do those to failure, or if I were to go to a gym, prioritize doing a back-to-back on a pitch i know and can climb fast that's maybe 4-5 letter grades below the thing I'm working on). |
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how to train especific finger endurance |
