The Devils Lake top rope cluster Fu&k thread... (2nd Edition)

Hahaha!
This reminds me of the only time somebody ever asked me "Do you how to make a sliding x anchor?" No shade to those guys -- I'm actually glad they asked.

I was, of course, hiking past birch tree crack.

Andrew R wrote:

Use a clove hitch on your second leg so you can adjust it easily.  Position the master point just over the edge.  You also get 10 more feet of climbing.  Maybe put some padding under the rope since there is nothing really preventing the rope from getting dragged back and fourth over the edge as you climb.  Coil any extra rope and put it in a spot you won't trip over it. 

I'm a huge fan of using old yoga mats for padding in this. Just cut a cross in it and put the MP though that. The flaps will keep the mat from falling around the master point. 

Re: padding, I use some old strips of extra carpet. I've seen old fire hose used and think that's my favorite in terms of durability, weight, etc. Apparently you just need to ask your local fire department.

Joseph Shilati wrote:

oops just found this thread. This was mine from a few years ago... Any suggestions to improve it? the black rope is static and tied around the boulder twice with each end of the rope for redundancy then then a bhk tied in the middle. the rope clipped  to both the loops around the top was just to rap in after setting the tr. we approached from below and i soloed up the great chimney. Not really a lot of opportunities for gear at the top of coup d'etat. 

Yeah man, I wouldn’t rely on a single static line. Redundancies are a MUST with sharp edges. There’s definitely places for gear up on the top of Coup d’Etat. And always remember your beer when belaying from above. 

Fish Grain Tamer for protecting ropes over edges. Works well with a little setup.

http://www.fishproducts.com/catalog/runners.html

The slings are girth hitched together to extend over the edge. Each sling can cut the other with that girth hitch pinching itself and weakening the sling singificantly.
The anchor is not redundant, the most important thing of an anchor is redundancy, if the slings fail it all fails
Not sure what the hell they tied around the tree, doesn't look normal
Nothing wrong with trees as anchors, that rule is more for preserving trees if inclined to avoid using them, but not from safety perspective.
The tree is on the skinny side, they didn't grab the trunk either but a branch, you should sling low to not leverage the tree off its roots
I climb on most things, this is idiotic though. Awful anchor
@Felim

Buck Rio wrote:

OK, I was the guy who asked the question.....Was Tommy Deutschler part of this vaunted group?  I partied with him back in the day at Interstate Park in St Croix Falls WI.

He sure was......  we all  hung around at Erehwon on State street, the original store location.  Tommy, Darvin VanDeGrift, Marty Stilling, Norm Havercroft.....  Mike Wopat (Tom Wopat, of Dukes of Hazard fame was his brother and climbed whenever he was in town)......  this was in 1974-80'ish.  Oh, Dana Gleason and his bride Laura.....   good times hanging out at Pete Cleveland's house on the northwest edge of the park, Ski Road, Big Ski Orchard road.....    drank way too much beer, from the Big Eddy Springs...  can't remember the damned name of it.  

God bless,

Mike Rock

Mike...

Leinenkugels!  Ha!  Big eddy was a horse the ole joke goes...

From the Big Eddy spring.....   had to research......  It was Tommy Deutschler who always said, 'Let's get some Big Eddy'.....we'd go into Baraboo and grab several cases of Linnies, great stuff.

Caused a few hungover climbs.

One night we all hung our pea pod hammocks in the trees on the east side of the parking lot, way up there.  Our downfall was one rope left hanging.  Rangers routed us all out.  They were still laughing about the hammocks in the trees the next morning when we came back.  We'd just moved camp to the big quarry south of the park entrance.....  Tommy had a green VW stationwagon, I had a blue Beetle.  Fun times.   I forgot to mention Charlie Rodgers and Steve Hymes in the climber group.  

Mike

::Speaking about the two limited time offering beers, Tony Bugher, President of Leinenkugel’s  said “Bringing back Leinie’s Red Lager was a no-brainer given last year’s demand. It’s a beer many of our drinkers have enjoyed for years now and I’m proud we’ll have it on the shelves and on tap this coming year. I’m also really fired up about the return of Big Eddy. There’s so much romance and nostalgia for our Big Eddy brews that we couldn’t deny bringing it back after being in hibernation for over a decade. Our Big Eddy Imperial Stout is a delicious, big, bold and complex beer that I know drinkers are going to be clamoring for.” ::