The Devils Lake top rope cluster Fu&k thread... (2nd Edition)

A continuation of this famous thread:

The Devils Lake top rope cluster Fu&k thread...

Share your photos and critiques of various Devils Lake top rope anchors.
Please keep the unrelated garbage (i.e. "I'll be top rope soloing on the East this weekend wanna meetup?")to a minimum - use a DM or different forum for that.
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Happy Hunting,
James

Right before the last thread closed someone asked what the DLFA was. Do yourself a favor and buy the new guidebook to the Lake by Jay Knower. There’s a good history section in there.

https://www.wolverinepublishing.com/store/devils-lake-climbing/ 

After you do that, check the link below for a devils lake documentary on the heyday of the DLFA climbing era.

https://vimeo.com/ondemand/24156 

Now back to your regularly scheduled program of ridicule and scorn heaped onto those with poor anchor skills.

chris tregge wrote: Right before the last thread closed someone asked what the DLFA was. Do yourself a favor and buy the new guidebook to the Lake by Jay Knower. There’s a good history section in there. After you do that, check the link below for a devils lake documentary on the heyday of the DLFA climbing era.

https://vimeo.com/ondemand/24156 

Now back to your regularly scheduled program of ridicule and scorn heaped onto those with poor anchor skills. 

Jay's guidebook, and some history of the Lake in general (and DLFA in specific) were covered in Enormocast 128.

James Schroeder wrote:

Some history of the Lake in general and DLFA in specific was covered in Enormocast 128.

"My claim to fame was that I was the weakest climber to ever be on the Enormocast." -  James Schroeder

Paul Kalifatidi wrote:

"My claim to fame was that I was the weakest climber to ever be on the Enormocast." -  James Schroeder

Busted.

The D.L.F.A. was a haphazard assortment of talented young misfits unified by their unwavering pursuit of climbing, partying, and testing the boundaries of socially acceptable behavior.  America's dairy land was an unlikely location for a group of skilled climbers to emerge but in the late 1970s and throughout the 1980s they established bold first ascents at Devil's Lake State Park (Wisconsin) and elsewhere in the Midwest.   World renowned climbers Peter Cleveland and John Gill paved the way for these youngsters by establishing ground breaking test piece routes as top ropes at the lake during the 1960s.  Members of the D.L.F.A. saw the potential for these top ropes to become fantastic “head point” style lead climbs and forged ahead despite the danger or risk involved.   Their spirit of youthful nonconformity and brash rebellion is enshrined in the group's full name: The Devil's Lake Fuk-ness Association.
DLFA Video  vimeo.com/ondemand/24156https://vimeo.com/ondemand/24156

#7. Nine hundred and ninety three to go. 

Last year, my partner got a text from a friend who was being shown the ropes at the Lake. She took a picture of the anchor her partner was building. It was two hammock straps. I'll see if I can convince my partner to share the photo.

Alex A wrote: The D.L.F.A. was a haphazard assortment of talented young misfits unified by their unwavering pursuit of climbing, partying, and testing the boundaries of socially acceptable behavior.  America's dairy land was an unlikely location for a group of skilled climbers to emerge but in the late 1970s and throughout the 1980s they established bold first ascents at Devil's Lake State Park (Wisconsin) and elsewhere in the Midwest.   World renowned climbers Peter Cleveland and John Gill paved the way for these youngsters by establishing ground breaking test piece routes as top ropes at the lake during the 1960s.  Members of the D.L.F.A. saw the potential for these top ropes to become fantastic “head point” style lead climbs and forged ahead despite the danger or risk involved.   Their spirit of youthful nonconformity and brash rebellion is enshrined in the group's full name: The Devil's Lake Fuk-ness Association.
DLFA Video  vimeo.com/ondemand/24156https://vimeo.com/ondemand/24156

OK, I was the guy who asked the question.....Was Tommy Deutschler part of this vaunted group?  I partied with him back in the day at Interstate Park in St Croix Falls WI.

Lol.  You could say that.  Also love that we’re this far in and still haven’t followed the rules.  Sorry, James.

I saw this trash anchor over Easter weekend while skipping out from the religious festivities. The dude was willing to listen and take criticism which was pretty cool on his part. He asked for some much needed advise and reworked his anchor to a 2 piece somewhat safer setup. Watch out for these guys. 

why do we take such glee in ridiculing these sketchy top rope anchors when we’d all be happy as hell to clip all this bullsh*t on lead???  Be honest. 

Methinks it’s not so much about actual safety as just not being able to stomach the idiocy. 

Mark Pilate wrote: why do we take such glee in ridiculing these sketchy top rope anchors when we’d all be happy as hell to clip all this bullsh*t on lead???  Be honest. 

Methinks it’s not so much about actual safety as just not being able to stomach the idiocy. 

Lol, troll post of the day!

Following new thread 

Alan Coon wrote: Following new thread 

Public Service Announcement: bottom left corner of the page, check the box that subscribes you to the thread.

Learned how to climb in Devils Lake, currently live in CO found this gem in Boulder, felt the need to show what other states have to offer. (Not DL but still fu&cking gold)

(okay I’ll give them this singular hex) 

Anthony DiFronzo wrote: Learned how to climb in Devils Lake, currently live in CO found this gem in Boulder, felt the need to show what other states have to offer. (Not DL but still fu&cking gold)

(okay I’ll give them this singular hex) 

This is MP GOLD right here. LOL i hope it is a joke....

That cam is an absolute joke, but I would TR off that hex (and tree) alone...unless it’s connected to that cross-loaded carabiner via 2 daisy chains lol. Hard to see what the full set up is here, undeniable clusterf*ck.

I’m in favor of making this a general jive-ass-achor thread. Why limit ourselves to DL?

Cron wrote: That cam is an absolute joke, but I would TR off that hex (and tree) alone...unless it’s connected to that cross-loaded carabiner via 2 daisy chains lol. Hard to see what the full set up is here, undeniable clusterf*ck.

I’m in favor of making this a general jive-ass-achor thread. Why limit ourselves to DL?

Second that. Shitty anchors everywhere!

Found this on a blog called dumbanchors. Carderock, MD. Piece of cord around a tree, dyneema sling girth hitched to it, climbing rope through the sling.

I'd say this is a little beyond a mere cluster.

Jacob Weyenberg wrote:

I saw this trash anchor over Easter weekend while skipping out from the religious festivities. The dude was willing to listen and take criticism which was pretty cool on his part. He asked for some much needed advise and reworked his anchor to a 2 piece somewhat safer setup. Watch out for these guys. 

What’s wrong with this setup except using the tree as pro?