New and experienced climbers over 50 #36

Hi everyone, not sure why our thread got locked?

I'm not seeing that #35 is locked.

Probably all the pictures from #35, just a guess 

We are famous now! 

https://www.climbing.com/culture/20-years-of-beta-bickering-and-bold-opinions-on-mountain-project/

That's funny the last one got locked! Oldtradguy either got pissed off, or, more likely and more humerous, (considering it's the geriatrics ward) bumped the button that locks it. Whoever starts these things can lock them at will. Or by button bumping pre coffee/post beer.

So. This was my weekend. A friend went to the er close to midnight Saturday. His elderly dad called me, so off I went to see what was up. Texting with the dad, by midday Sunday, it became clear dad was getting pretty muddled. 

So I go to the house. 

And dad gets a ride to the hospital too.

Father and son both. 

I totally lost track of what day it was, went to the hospital many many times, back and forth many many times, chasing the room shuffling, ferrying info between father and son and making sure providers were cross pollinating....

I'm tired, but hey, I sure got those steps in!

Anyway, the son is out, but dad is still being held, to see if cognitive function improves enough for informed consents, so they can plan things out for discharge.

The pertinence here, to this thread?

Lori's conversation about our appalling food in this country.

They check everything, when you go in the way these 2 did, and both have that appalling American fast food/processed food diet. 

It showed up in their bloodwork, even to the point of some deficiencies that have consequences. Nutrition, or lack of it, is tied to just about everything.

Yet, just try to eat good stuff. Things that should be easy.... aren't. It's food, ffs. In the U S of A. The only excuse for it is corporate greed, plain and simple. In my opinion, it's criminal culpability, but the power is too great, and we are too brainwashed, most Americans, to know any better. And expect cheap.

Some parts of this, we can pick and choose, where and what we buy cook eat. But it's not easy, even if you are trying. 

Bread/grains is a really tough one. Whole grains are a vital part of what we should be eating, every day. But there's just nothing remotely healthy on offer, if you know you're stuff and look at labels. 

Even my beloved artisan bakeries mostly use white flours, not whole grain, for the most part. At least it's not loaded with a bunch of other crap, to keep it cheap, and have long shelf life. 

Anyway, try to eat healthy (it can be THE best food ever!), stay active, stay badass. 

I think pure stubborn helps, too.

Helen

Paula spent the night in the hospital when she broke her hip skating in January.  They gave her a store bought muffin in plastic wrap with every meal.  I haven’t eaten crap like that in at least 30 years. This is the place where they supposedly know how to keep you healthy - or maybe they just want to make return customers.  

Trying to be pedantic, shouldn't this new thread be called: New and experienced climbers over 50 #35.461?

And I think we need conspiracy theories about why it got locked.

- It was "them" trying to lock "us" out.

- "They" are playing with the system before monetizing "our" interest in this thread.

Old lady Hwrote:

Yet, just try to eat good stuff. Things that should be easy.... aren't. It's food, ffs. In the U S of A. The only excuse for it is corporate greed, plain and simple. In my opinion, it's criminal culpability, but the power is too great, and we are too brainwashed, most Americans, to know any better. And expect cheap.

Some parts of this, we can pick and choose, where and what we buy cook eat. But it's not easy, even if you are trying. 

Bread/grains is a really tough one. Whole grains are a vital part of what we should be eating, every day. But there's just nothing remotely healthy on offer, if you know you're stuff and look at labels. 

Even my beloved artisan bakeries mostly use white flours, not whole grain, for the most part. At least it's not loaded with a bunch of other crap, to keep it cheap, and have long shelf life. 

Anyway, try to eat healthy (it can be THE best food ever!), stay active, stay badass. 

I think pure stubborn helps, too.

Helen

Sounds like a stressful weekend. Eating healthy is a good idea but usually costs more and people on lower incomes have to make trade offs. Take a look at the pic of the ingredient list on my favorite sandwhich bread which is made by an artisinal bakery in my area. All natural, tastes great, no preservatives or additives and double the price of your white mass market sandwhich bread. People in higher income brackets live longer and healthier lives and while there are many reasons for that being able to afford healthier food is part of it.  But poverty isn't an easy problem to fix.

I'll be spending time in the kitchen today.  This is my favorite online chef...he is PURE JOY     If I can work up the energy, I'll also make our favorite pasta recipe, Spaghetti Bolognese with cloves.  Anyone else at the stove today?  What are you cooking?  

My only debate here with the artichokes is whether or not to include anchovies.  I don't cook with them much.   

--

I think with envy on all you proficient climbers, and the veteran ones here--all the 'real climbers'. .  It's easy to feel like a failure, something I have to guard against.  

Lately Bob has been saying "This next move is a commitment move."  Or just "COMMIT".  And I realize I have 'commitment issues'.      Usually I just wanna come down and go home.  

How much of failure at climbing is disbelief?  Generally, if I do commit, it all works out. But I fight the certainty that I cannot do it.  (BTW, I did not finish this move... quit before the top but that was just fatigue from the Applebees debacle and nausea) 

There is so much to be learned about character, about will, about self-talk and self-love in this sport.  

PS to Emil:  I was recently tasked with helping a very obese veteran Marine with making healthy food on $250 a month.  I spent a lot of time browsing at Walmart, and creating 30 recipes with their shopping lists.  It took time, but I did it... and he followed through with the plan, lost the weight and got healthy.  "Organic" is not the highest priority.  Healthy food, with enough protein and vegetables is the priority.  It can be done, even on a strict budget. The problem is... no one knows it is even an issue, nor have the training to follow through.

I think we are in a crisis like we were with tobacco a few decades ago.  It took huge legal action, constant lawsuits against tobacco companies, and non-stop government education to the public for it to slowly have effect.  We are not even at the beginning of such a movement with food but I hope we will be.  

Canada’s elections: Why every party lost

I’m embarrassed to say I’ve finally been paying attention to Canadian politics lately. So I guess I’ve been like a typical American for a long time- self-oriented, and insular in interest from the world. The interest, though, is more about observing the political patterns around the world- the rise of populism, and in some places, its decline. Not sure of the degree to which this decline is actually happening in Canada right now, but the last few months have been particularly interesting.

Nationalism is an important element of populism. Keep in mind that Canadian conservatives were enjoying a healthy lead over the liberals until Donnie started yammering about making Canada the 51st state.

Yes, and it's apparently that same nationalism that caused such a dramatic swing in the electorate- when it came down to it, the allegiance that many of those voters had to their country seemed to rise above their politics, when the 'leadership' of the neighboring power started spraying imperialistic Krap out of his mouth.

Frank Steinwrote:

Nationalism is an important element of populism. Keep in mind that Canadian conservatives were enjoying a healthy lead over the liberals until Donnie started yammering about making Canada the 51st state.

apogeewrote:

Yes, and it's apparently that same nationalism that caused such a dramatic swing in the electorate- when it came down to it, the allegiance that many of those voters had to their country seemed to rise above their politics, when the 'leadership' of the neighboring power started spraying imperialistic Krap out of his mouth.

Trump bonded nearly all Canadians under a single flag…

Emil Briggswrote:

Sounds like a stressful weekend. Eating healthy is a good idea but usually costs more and people on lower incomes have to make trade offs. Take a look at the pic of the ingredient list on my favorite sandwhich bread which is made by an artisinal bakery in my area. All natural, tastes great, no preservatives or additives and double the price of your white mass market sandwhich bread. People in higher income brackets live longer and healthier lives and while there are many reasons for that being able to afford healthier food is part of it.  But poverty isn't an easy problem to fix.

And....

Even with our beloved artisan bakers (I got James Beard level here, brag brag brag)? I truly dearly love my local bakers, and that's a vast step up, for sure. 

First ingredient is still unbleached WHITE flour. Sigh.

Because we have been on this shit for most of our lives, except maybe if anyone of us went hippie enough to make granola and bake our own wheat berry bread, which required having a hippie co-op type store where you could buy actual wheat berries. 

(Insert rest of rant here)

(Although I do totally agree with Lori, we are at a point of this being, to me, very similar to tobacco settlements.)

Okey dokey, on to other topics.

Lori, imo, when something calls for anchovies? They're probably shooting for that not exactly fishy but nonetheless concentrated umami flavor. Plus saltiness....but not salty. In a Caesar salad, I've gone to really super good romano/Parmesan cheese (artisan cheesemakers here, too), instead of tossing out lots of leftover anchovy tins. There's only 1 of me. Artichokes, usually means just adding the artichoke hearts you can get in jars or canned. Figure out if the marinated or not marinated are what you want.

And YES better food technically is more money up front. BUT, if you have really good quality stuff? You eat LESS of it. Even apart from taste, our bodies crave nutrition, so if that mcburger is so poir it isn't hiving you those b vitamins, you'll want more. And still be dhit out of luck nutritionally. If you pop for that farmers market produce? It lasts much longer, because, firstly, it is weeks fresher to start with, and, hasn't been hosed down every fifteen seconds. By the way, that also means per pound produce is a lot heavier, with all the water. Oh, and, and, and? Buy a bunch of green onions at the market? They aren't trimmed to fit shipping boxes or produce aisle setups. You'll be getting almost twice as much in that bunch.

Lesseee....

Are we even going to consider the reality of those who are at the absolute bottom of the labor laws? The next door to slave labor of farmworkers? I'm talking in our own country. Every labor law on the books has exemptions for agriculture. 

Ah sorry. Ranting anyway, lol.

But geez, 2 people, both type 2 diabetics, in the hospital. They got the diabetic diets, in their rooms.

Me? In the cafeteria? And with my friend who had just been discharged?

We got some french toast for breakfast.

With "breakfast syrup'.

Pretty short ingredient list, at least.

First. Corn syrup.

Second. High fructose corn syrup.

Then down to the other crap.

Cheers all.

Oh! One more::

John, hope this goes great! And, you maybe locked the earlier thread. Oops. I'd say leave it, and just roll with this one.

Helen 

Yesterday evening

The first day we were here we climbed into this notch and climbed the left side of that little nubbin that sticks out on the right edge of the notch. its a crazy thin flake that you grab the edge and layback up.  Today we climbed a crack and corner up the wall just left of the left slanting roof. 

Yesterday 

my lead looked intimidating.. 

might meander twords Kentucky this evening. 

Old lady Hwrote:

And....

Even with our beloved artisan bakers (I got James Beard level here, brag brag brag)? I truly dearly love my local bakers, and that's a vast step up, for sure. 

First ingredient is still unbleached WHITE flour. Sigh.

Because we have been on this shit for most of our lives, except maybe if anyone of us went hippie enough to make granola and bake our own wheat berry bread, which required having a hippie co-op type store where you could buy actual wheat berries. 

It is a 7 grain bread   but they also make 100% whole wheat bread along with a few others with no white flour at all. The basic point though is that it's a lot more expensive than generic supermarket bread. There are a number of reasons for this including more expensive ingredients, smaller economies of scale and a shorter shelf life. These aren't trivial issues to overcome if you want to provide equivalent healthy options for everyone at similar price points.

I agree that good food can be expensive.  But in my opinion eggs are the cheapest and healthiest thing that you can eat, despite the anti cholesterol hype.  I get a dozen free range eggs from my neighbor, who has just raised the price to all of six bucks.   My lunch with four eggs, the olive oil to cook it in, and the organic sauerkraut I ate with it cost maybe three bucks.  WAY cheaper than fast food. And it might have taken five minutes to cook.  But then I’m lucky in that I like to eat anything.

Ward Smithwrote:

But in my opinion eggs are the cheapest and healthiest thing that you can eat, despite the anti cholesterol hype.  

Low key disagree. When July rolls around and the red run happens on the Kenai and Kasilof rivers, my household can harvest 55 sockeye salmon. For free. Doesn’t get cheaper and healthier than that. If you have a garden, go berry picking, and get yourself a moose? Who needs Walmart for groceries? Kind of an Alaska thing, however…

Ward Smithwrote:

I agree that good food can be expensive.  But in my opinion eggs are the cheapest and healthiest thing that you can eat, despite the anti cholesterol hype.  I get a dozen free range eggs from my neighbor, who has just raised the price to all of six bucks.   My lunch with four eggs, the olive oil to cook it in, and the organic sauerkraut I ate with it cost maybe three bucks.  WAY cheaper than fast food. And it might have taken five minutes to cook.  But then I’m lucky in that I like to eat anything.

That actually sounds pretty good.

This pretty little crack is 15 minutes from the road. I cleaned it out (didn't need all that much) and put in a top anchor today. It's gonna rain here now for a few days which will clean out the residual dust. And then I'll lead it next week.

My estimate is 5.8? But one never knows until it's done.

The formation it is on hasn't been climbed before, but was named some years ago: "The Cousin."

Unusually, I'm haven trouble coming up with a name for the (to be) route. I may have to resort to an expedient I used for a few months a few years ago: open up a junk mail catalog and put my finger on a page randomly. After all, that's how "Tourmaline Earrings" got named.

Any of you available to do the FA next week (Phil included if/when you are reading this)?