Black diamond speedfi

Anyone know what the rated breaking strength of these are? I couldn’t find it on the website 

Thank you, Kevin. You're the man, we appreciate you. 

Ricky Harline wrote:

Thank you, Kevin. You're the man, we appreciate you. 

Indeed we do! A well thought out and thorough review.

Please contribute to Kevin's Go-Fund-Me so he and Black Diamond can go through couple's therapy and work through their past trauma's together. 

Give today so we can help these two learn to forgive the past, and climb to a better future.

Bug Boy wrote:

it’s a little confusing on the manual but it appears that BD does not approve their daisies to be used as a PAS without a second attachment point. 

Well the Petzl Evolv Adjust isn't PPE either. We've all been using stuff outside of spec for a while. 

I might see if there's a few in stock at BD HQ. Not that I'm going to aid climb anything for a while, but it might be fun to try out the new stuff. Seems like you could use a combo of Speedaisy and Speedfi for following, cutting down on some clutter by eliminating a daisy compared to an Allfifi setup. 

update 12/17: HQ didn't have either the Speedaisy or Speedfi in stock.

Sooo the Speedfi is finally back in stock on bd’s site. I’m getting into aid climbing this year, so far just using a regular fifi hook, but I’m considering upgrading due to the speedfis price point and design. 

I’m curious if anyone has recent hands on experience with the Speedfi. Specifically:

How does the release function perform under load? Easy to use one handed with gloves?

Anyone encounter and durability issues?

How does it compare to similar devices on the market?

Any insight or experiences would be greatly appreciated, thanks!

Joey Chicharrones wrote:

How does the release function perform under load? Easy to use one handed with gloves?

It releases one-handed under moderate load, but not free-hanging. There's simply not enough leverage available to overcome full body weight.

I found the best use is steeping up while keeping tension on my fifi and on my feet.

Kevin is no longer on the forum so I reached out privately to him for his take. The advantages pretty much stop at the cord being round and not twisting and this is what he had to say on the disadvantages. 

"But the biggest disadvantages:

The thumb trigger is a little harder to find than a cam buckle with your hands, you end up twisting your hands more Often than not to find the sweet spot and it builds up over the course a a few pitches. Once a full wall one wouldn’t feel it on day one but it would be a difference by day five or six

It also takes more pressure to depress than a cam buckle, another thing where you won’t notice it really on day one (compared to an allfifi) but I’m not really willing to test it out for a full week of climbing. I can see the stress train coming down that track 

Also the trigger comes out a bit from the casing and if you’re leaning left of right around a corner or an arrete, more than once the wall depressed the tigger and caused me to slip/fall. That part alone was a non starter for me because it almost never happens with the allfifi but happened more than a couple times on the traversing starting pitches of Muir and Magic Mushroom"

So there we go. 

that guy named seb wrote:

Kevin is no longer on the forum so a reached out privately to him for his take. The advantages pretty much stop at the cord and this is what he had to say on the disadvantages. 

"But the biggest disadvantages:

The thumb trigger is a little harder to find than a cam buckle with your hands, you end up twisting your hands more Often than not to find the sweet spot and it builds up over the course a a few pitches. Once a full wall one wouldn’t feel it on day one but it would be a difference by day five or six

It also takes more pressure to depress than a cam buckle, another thing where you won’t notice it really on day one (compared to an allfifi) but I’m not really willing to test it out for a full week of climbing. I can see the stress train coming down that track 

Also the trigger comes out a bit from the casing and if you’re leaning left of right around a corner or an arrete, more than once the wall depressed the tigger and caused me to slip/fall. That part alone was a non starter for me because it almost never happens with the allfifi but happened more than a couple times on the traversing starting pitches of Muir and Magic Mushroom"

So there we go. 

Kevin continues to be the man. Hope dude starts a blog or something, he was one of the best contributors to this place.