Black diamond speedfi

Keep the Evolvs, fully extended and clipped to your Ladders. Only adjust them for Jugging, getting comfortable at belays, or the occasional move that requires an extra adjustable (I never do that last one- but some do) 

Every time you move up on a piece, you’ll winch yourself up with the Alfifi 

Your evolvs are basically just so you don’t drop a ladder

Quinn Hatfield wrote:

Keep the Evolvs, fully extended and clipped to your Ladders. Only adjust them for Jugging, getting comfortable at belays, or the occasional move that requires an extra adjustable (I never do that last one- but some do) 

Every time you move up on a piece, you’ll winch yourself up with the Alfifi 

Your evolvs are basically just so you don’t drop a ladder

I think you've just convinced me to buy and try the Alfifi!

Are y'all running with two Alfifis, or just one? What are you doing for horizontal moves, like roofs? I would use the two legs of the Evolv Adjust to lower myself from my high point on the previous piece onto the next piece. Are you doing something similar with the Alfifi, or just Tarzanning across on one? I guess you could normal Fifi into your farthest reach on the next piece, and lower out with the Alfifi from the previous piece

I think this is a fundamental mistake with how you envision aid climbing. It seems to me from what you’ve written that your  “aid“ climbing is somehow lowering and leveraging your lard ass, (nothing personal) up a route by any mechanical means possible. My aid climbing is more fluid and dynamic than that. I tell people to learn how to “free climb” in their aiders, learn how to relax and move up and off their aiders as if they were free climbing. By doing that, you are far less dependent on your daisies, your Alfifi, or this BD gizmo and can move far more efficiently and therefore quickly.

Mark Hudon wrote: Duncan Domingue wrote:

I think this is a fundamental mistake with how you envision aid climbing. It seems to me from what you’ve written that your  “aid“ climbing is somehow lowering and leveraging your lard ass, (nothing personal) up a route by any mechanical means possible. My aid climbing is more fluid and dynamic than that. I tell people to learn how to “free climb” in their aiders, learn how to relax and move up and off their aiders as if they were free climbing. By doing that, you are far less dependent on your daisies, your Alfifi, or this BD gizmo and can move far more efficiently and therefore quickly.

Hey Mark, you're right! That is literally how I treat aid climbing, as a mechanical means of leveraging my lard ass up a route by any means possible. And I have a lot of fun doing it when I do it! When the aiding is straightforward, fucking anything works. I was asking about when the route gets stupid, which are the fun routes for me to aid. Congratulations on your fluid and dynamic aid climbing, I'll continue with brute force.

Edit: I was thinking of a specific move I did last year when I asked the question; I was traversing under a roof with my only placements 5.5 feet apart. It was pretty nice to be able to lower out from one to the other. Anyway, I got the answer I needed from Quinn to just keep the Evolv Adjust I have now, and use the Alfifi for faster, normal aiding.

For people who prefer yates adjustable daisies over the petzl evolvs, you really only need one adjustable daisy when paired with the alfifi.

When I am using daisies with my alfifi, I really like having one yates adjustable daisy and one traditional daisy.  When climbing, I will always keep both daises fully extended, only adjusting the length of the alfifi.  Having one yates adjustable daisy eliminates the unnecessary weight and cluster of having two adjustables, but still gives me the benefits of getting comfy at belays and easy length adjustments on my top ascender when jugging.

Mark Hudon wrote: Duncan Domingue wrote:

I think this is a fundamental mistake with how you envision aid climbing. It seems to me from what you’ve written that your  “aid“ climbing is somehow lowering and leveraging your lard ass, (nothing personal) up a route by any mechanical means possible. My aid climbing is more fluid and dynamic than that. I tell people to learn how to “free climb” in their aiders, learn how to relax and move up and off their aiders as if they were free climbing. By doing that, you are far less dependent on your daisies, your Alfifi, or this BD gizmo and can move far more efficiently and therefore quickly.

Someone check on Pete in case he took this one personal.
Someone check on Mark and make sure he’s not belaying some new guy up A2 for the 5th hour and just salty.

Bryce Ungersma wrote:

Noob here..

Could you elaborate? Don't they both use a similar cam buckle?

**After I place my piece, I clip into it with my lead carabiner, which is connected to my adjustable daisy. I will typically slump down into a bit of a rest.  This can put me a bit out of reach of the piece I just placed, so I will then pull myself up on the adjustable daisy to get into about the third step. This saves me having to stand up and reach with only my Alfifi. Once I'm in the third step, the piece is within easy reach, and I use the Alfifi to fine-tune my height, usually trying to top-step.  

**As I said, I only had to climb thirty or forty feet on traditional daisies plus Alfifi - as suggested to me by David Allfrey - to keep reaching for imaginary adjustable daisies that weren't there.  So I use two Yates adjustables and one Alfifi [as asked by Duncan].  That's the Better Way for me, but the Better Way is whatever works best for you.

Quinn Hatfield wrote:

Maybe what you really need is a gym membership? : p

** I bought a ten-pack pass. Does that count?  

Duncan Domingue wrote:

Hey Mark, you're right! That is literally how I treat aid climbing, as a mechanical means of leveraging my lard ass up a route by any means possible. 

** Me too!  And I'll bet you a big fat beer my ass is more lard-assly than yours!  

Rprops wrote:

Someone check on Pete in case he took this one personal.

** Yes I did. And I resemble that comment!  Bwah-ha-ha-ha-ha-ha!!!!!! 

Peter Zabrok wrote:

**After I place my piece, I clip into it with my lead carabiner, which is connected to my adjustable daisy. I will typically slump down into a bit of a rest.  This can put me a bit out of reach of the piece I just placed, so I will then pull myself up on the adjustable daisy to get into about the third step. This saves me having to stand up and reach with only my Alfifi. Once I'm in the third step, the piece is within easy reach, and I use the Alfifi to fine-tune my height, usually trying to top-step.  

Make sense, thanks. I must be too ambitious by trying to avoid adjusting my adjustable daisies while leading

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

The whole point of the allfifi is that you never have to adjust your daisies. You can still "slump down" on your allfifi and then use it to climb up the ladders just like you would with a regular fifi hook. Once you place your piece and clip your ladders to it, you hold the ladder with one hand, then unhook the allfifi and pull it up (releasing webbing length as you go) to hook into the new piece in one smooth motion.

Yes. This is what I do. Which sounds different from Pete’s method. 

Peter Zabrok wrote:

**After I place my piece, I clip into it with my lead carabiner, which is connected to my adjustable daisy. I will typically slump down into a bit of a rest.  This can put me a bit out of reach of the piece I just placed, so I will then pull myself up on the adjustable daisy to get into about the third step. This saves me having to stand up and reach with only my Alfifi. Once I'm in the third step, the piece is within easy reach, and I use the Alfifi to fine-tune my height, usually trying to top-step.  

This is fucking bonkers 

Any updates on the release date on this? It seems like it's just sat on the website for like a year with no stock information. 

that guy named seb wrote:

Any updates on the release date on this? It seems like it's just sat on the website for like a year with no stock information. 

It's trying to create a buzz , teasing you until you can't resist and buy a set for yourself and all your dirtbag bros when it comes out

that guy named seb wrote:

Any updates on the release date on this? It seems like it's just sat on the website for like a year with no stock information. 

https://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en_US/product/speedfi/

Both the Speedfi and Speedaisy (the one with a hole instead of a fifi hook) are in stock on Black Diamond's website now. I just ordered a pair of the Speedfis, but probably won't get to try them out on real rock until next year.

Cant wait for Ryan @hownot2 to test theses things ! I wonder at what forces does it slip with the 7mm cord in there.... and the breaking strenght !  

Kevin DeWeese wrote:

Just got a speedfi and two speed aiders to see what they're like. I'm assuming the speedfi will be a horrible monstrosity compared to the allfifi. But hopefully the speed aiders might be at least as good as the camp swings.

So open minded!

 
Btw, like all of these products, I cut the stock cord off and replaced with something thinner, because I think it makes me look cooler. I suspect you’ll do the same.

If you promise to not be a total curmudgeon about it, I will bet you one bail biner you’ll think the speedfi is a good product.

Rprops wrote:

So open minded!

 
Btw, like all of these products, I cut the stock cord off and replaced with something thinner, because I think it makes me look cooler. I suspect you’ll do the same.

If you promise to not be a total curmudgeon about it, I will bet you one bail biner you’ll think the speedfi is a good product.

A good product that you need to reinvent right out of the box. Cool story, Hansel 

Those sold out quickly!   

With respect to replacing the stock cord, I just checked the website and BD says the Speedfi will come with 6mm of static cord, and the Speedaisy will come with 7mm of dynamic cord. So, I guess the mechanism they're using is going to be at least somewhat tolerant to cord diameter changes.

it’s a little confusing on the manual but it appears that BD does not approve their daisies to be used as a PAS without a second attachment point.