Hexes: Active or Passive?

Hillbilly. no need for growth in anchor building. KISS find two things that work for leapfrogging and leading in blocks and use them every time. Consistency and boring = safe.

Nick Goldsmithwrote:

Hillbilly. no need for growth in anchor building. KISS find two things that work for leapfrogging and leading in blocks and use them every time. Consistency and boring = safe.

What's also gross is the growth in the number of locking carabiners people are carrying.

What is needed is ONE per person for their belay device. All others should be standard carabiners that can be used on lead or for other simple utility.

These days newbies are taught to leave the ground with at least 3 plus the kitchen sink. The only people benefitting from this are the gear sellers.

Sprayloard Overstokerwrote:

What's also gross is the growth in the number of locking carabiners people are carrying.

What is needed is ONE per person for their belay device. All others should be standard carabiners that can be used on lead or other simple utility.

These days newbies are taught to leave the ground with at least 3 plus the kitchen sink. The only people benefitting from this are the gear sellers.

Locking carabiner not required for plate/tube/atc type devices. Opposed/double reversed whatever you want to call it is fine, sometimes even better. 

That said, the ONLY locking carabiner I carry IS for my ATC, IF I am carrying it.

Eric Craigwrote:

Locking carabiner not required for plate/tube/atc type devices. Opposed/double reversed whatever you want to call it is fine, sometimes even better. 

That said, the ONLY locking carabiner I carry IS for my ATC, IF I am carrying it.

Preach brother!

What do you guys do with all the lockers you find?

Sprayloard Overstokerwrote:

Preach brother!

I'm not trying to preach. If people want to carry 3 or more it makes no difference to me,  even if I'm climbing with them. When I was guiding, long ago in a galaxy far away, yeah I carried more lockers. 

I was kinda agreeing with you. I think. 

How did we get on the topic of locking biners in a hexes thread?

In any case I carry 6 when guiding now.

just old guys talking tough... 

Wasent talking to you. You still got egg shells on your butt...

Eric Craigwrote:

I'm not trying to preach. If people want to carry 3 or more it makes no difference to me,  even if I'm climbing with them. When I was guiding, long ago in a galaxy far away, yeah I carried more lockers. 

I was kinda agreeing with you. I think. 

I was agreeing too.

That's what I meant to post, to Mr. Hillbilly. Thanks Ricky. 

Eric Craigwrote:

Couldn't have said it better

Jabroni McChufferson wrote:

#7 is my personal favorite hex 

Karate crack at smith must use at least 6.

I remember seeing cordelette’s used commonly 1988 at JTree, Donner

The original question posted by John Clark was:

So what are they? Active or passive pro? I lean towards passive, but could see a narrow path to defining it as active

EN 12276 Frictional anchors
Device, capable of self-expansion, which can be placed in a parallel-sided crack in the rock, and which, due to friction between the device and the rock, can withstand a load.

Camming devices such as 'Friends' and 'Camalots' all fall under the EN 12276 standard.
They all have an 'adjustable body'.

EN 12270 Chocks
Non-adjustable body, which is intended to be wedged in cracks or cavities in the rock and which, due to its shape and orientation in the rock, can withstand a load.

Nuts and Hexs all fall under the EN 12270 standard.
They are not capable of self-expansion.

...

The terms 'active' and 'passive' do not appear in the EN standards, these are terms the climbing community have evolved.
A device that is capable of self-expansion (ie an adjustable body) would be what the climbing community refer to as 'active'.
Spring force is the current technology that enables self-expansion (eg Black Diamond 'Camalots' employ springs to enable self-expansion).
All spring loaded camming devices have moving parts.

Chocks (ie Wired nuts and Hex's) do not "self-expand" and so would be what the climbing community refer to as 'passive'.
There are no springs or moving parts in 'nuts' and 'hexs' and they do not have an adjustable body.

Therefore, with respect to the original question: A 'Hex' is an example of 'passive' protection.

Hopefully this answers the original posters question?

Yes, but people will argue tricams are still active

Why not just call "active" vs "passive ", cams and nuts? It's more inline with "EN" "standards", since they don't use active and passive terminology. 

Why not? If the definitions of the active and passive pieces is so controversial, just drop them. 

Why not?

Eric Craigwrote:

Why not just call "active" vs "passive ", cams and nuts? It's more inline with "EN" "standards", since they don't use a five and passive terminology. 

Why not? If the definitions of the active and passive pieces is so controversial, just drop them. 

Why not?

Because this is a troll thread from its inception, Eric. Try to keep up ;p

I am still learning John!

Someday I will disappear from here. That will mean I am doing it, rather than talking about it. 

John Clarkwrote:

Because this is a troll thread from its inception, Eric. Try to keep up ;p

Yes but is it active or passive trolling?