Snake Dike Comparisons

It will be retro-bolted by the time you come - the FAist have been on line urging folks to do so since one lady was killed and one paralyzed from falls on the route. Don't worry we got U!

Erik Sloanwrote:

It will be retro-bolted by the time you come - the FAist have been on line urging folks to do so since one lady was killed and one paralyzed from falls on the route. Don't worry we got U!

Can someone educate me about a fatality from a fall on the route (ostensibly from a lack of bolts)?
having a bolt right in front of you and choosing not to clip it is not what we’re discussing in this thread, so obviously it’s not that incident… 

and has there actually been anyone paralyzed *on * route? Obviously that stipulation would exclude an injury to someone who goes off route, while being able to see the route/dike, 50ft to their Left…

Um, the lady who died was last observed at an anchor while not clipped in. Let’s not get carried away here.

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201213934/Snake-Dike-Tragedy-Inadequate-Anchor-Tether-Inexperience

Ricky Harlinewrote:

If you can make it out to Emigrant Wall a few hours north start on 5.6 and work your way up to at least 5.7 if not 5.8 and you'll be set. If you can lead Three Springs you will find the slab on Snake Dike quite chill. 

No better training for Snake Dike than Emigrant! 

Christian Heschwrote:

to the OP, reference L Kap’s photo above and note where their leader is - *if* you want to protect your follower, do *not* clip that bolt/anchor on the dike, instead continue up the dike about 30ft of 5.easy and use the next bolt/anchor to belay from, that will significantly mitigate the follower swing risk. Of course you’ll need enough lead head to do so, but it *is* 5.easy, fwiw…

Climbing with double-rope technique would allow the leader to clip all of the bolts in that section, using one of the ropes. The other rope wouldn’t be clipped, so any swinging fall by the follower wouldn’t be nearly as severe. I acknowledge that few, if any, bother to use two ropes between two climbers on that route. Two ropes weigh more, and most climbers are unfamiliar with that technique. However, two ropes would allow for easier retreat. 

Erik Sloanwrote:

It will be retro-bolted by the time you come - the FAist have been on line urging folks to do so since one lady was killed and one paralyzed from falls on the route. Don't worry we got U!

That'd be awesome!! Is there anywhere I can follow or keep up to date with the progress of that? 

Last time I was on snake dike I got really scared on the friction part of the climb. Next time I'm there, I'm planning on hiking up the cables with a 3000ft rope and rigging a permanent static line so everyone can enjoy it on top rope (only one at a time please!).

Just putting this out there, but we could all collectively choose to not have another pointless Snake Dike retrobolting conversation/debate. Erik put the chum in the water for some reason, but we don't have to bite. 

BUT I WANT TO VIOLATE RULE #1!!!!!

(and flog the living sh** out of a very dead horse)

OP seems like he’s committed to putting in the work to achieve this entirely reasonable goal, which is encouraging since according to his profile we’re talking about a 26-year old guy who flashes 5.10 taking aim at a 5.7 that was first climbed in mountain boots in 1965. You got this, Brandon! 

I appreciate it Rob!... Not the best slab climber, but I think we are going to go to Stone Mountain in North Carolina to practice before and also do some of the climbs mentioned in Yosemite the week before... Hey, if it is retro-bolted when we get there, I wouldn't complain though, haha!

Erik Sloanwrote:

It will be retro-bolted by the time you come - the FAist have been on line urging folks to do so since one lady was killed and one paralyzed from falls on the route. Don't worry we got U!

Aren't most of the folks who put up the route no longer alive?  I hope you're joking about retro bolting. Is nothing sacred?

I read your post Ricky. And Christian's. Rob's too.

Dan Mydanswrote:

Aren't most of the folks who put up the route no longer alive?  I hope you're joking about retro bolting. Is nothing sacred?

Erik Beck has been arguing for Snake Dike to get retrobolted to be in line with other runout Tuolumne climbs (3-4 bolts a pitch) for several decades. No one wants the flak, though. If he wanted it done he should have gone up there and done it himself when his health was still good enough. That would have been seen as acceptable by everyone, but he's always wanted someone else to do it... And if anyone else does it those bolts will not have a long life. 

He also made a post that blew up when that poor Australian girl broke just about broke every damn bone in her body calling for the same again, which stirred up a lot of debate at the time. Anyone who retrobolts the route will become a valley pariah. Ain't nobody got time for that. 

Ok then. I say Erik go ahead. There are few that are a more committed "traditionalist" than me, but that's because I understand and respect the history, and more importantly, it is what suits ME.  Snake Dike is kind of a unique climb, and an awesome experience. I have no problem with making it a little more accessible. It will still be rather runout. And there will be plenty of other climbs still available to develop or test your skills for heady climbing. Much better ones in fact. Let Snake Dike be an exception. 

Anybody been on route yet this year? 

Alex C wrote:

P.S. how do you all think the climbing on Snake Dike compares to the Boltway on Stately Pleasure? I thought some of the sequences were tricky for 5.8, and would have been pretty gripped if it weren’t fairly well-bolted by Tuolumne standards. But of course it’s a grade harder. (I ask because I’d also love to do Snake Dike one day.)

I think Boltway is way harder (Zee Tree is also harder). I was very happy to have climbing shoes for them, but was absolutely fine in terrible approach shoes on Snake Dike.

Snake Dike just has 1 short friction crux that's actually pretty safe to fall on (it's just a smooth slab). In comparison Boltway had lots of hard moves with falls where I'd be worried about my ankles. Personally I care a lot more about how safe falls are and not bolt spacing though (I fall a lot).

Having the headgame to basically solo 5.2 once on the dike is separate skill which is pretty unrelated to how "hard" a climb is.

Re: shoes:

Ideally your approach shoes should be comfy enough to do 14+ miles of hiking, but sticky enough to feel confident on the unroped class 4 sections of the approach, slab slog, and descent.

You will want climbing shoes that are flatter, more supportive, and roomy enough, not agressively shaped, soft, or sized down. Some of the worst foot pain I've ever had was on hanging belays on Tuolumne domes in super soft, unsupportive, tight shoes.

There is no comparison to Snake Dike. Iconic route on one of the greatest rock formations on earth. If you are scared, find a partner who has done the route before. Your first time will be scary. The second time won't be as bad. Then you will feel comfortable. The next five to ten times on the route will be all joy. Two aliens, eight caribiners and six slings.

OMG, the start of the perfect Half Dome joke ..  Eight caribiners, six slings and two aliens walk into a bar...

C'mon MP, this is for Brandon to share atop Half Dome!!