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Good solo/rope solos in teton, early season
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Ill be in the grand mid june. Dont think ill find a partner so im looking for something i can solo and possibly rope solo on harder pitches if necessary in a one(long) day window. Im planning on bringing crampons and axe with weather being up in the air at that time. Through my research i think my best options so far are symmetry spire, guides wall, or upper exum. Any ideas/tips on what would work best, logistically? |
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Guides Wall is a very popular early season ( all season, actually) objective, so if the weather is good is likely to be very busy---and a rope soloist on the route is not likely to be 'appreciated'. |
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The southwest ridge or Durrance ridge of Symmetry would be fun, in my opinion. Direct Jensen is good if you are comfortable with the start. (Or, go exploring up the south wall of Storm Point above Cascade Canyon and find the route I FSFA about 67 years ago. I was up there in the 1990s and could not remember where it went after the first pitch up a break in the wall.) |
Hieu L wrote: I guess I'd suggest a shorter multi pitch or two with shorter approach. Maybe do a few scramble type routes (4th class). Storm Point from the Symmetry Spire approach. St. John. Maybe Cube Point if you think you're up to soloing a few pitches of easy fifth class. Longer day but SW Coulior on the Middle. Buck east face. Etc. Uhh..how much experience do you have alpine climbing? Do you know how to self arrest with an ice axe? What have you climbed in crampons? I wouldn't suggest rope soloing anything on your first trip to the Tetons. Also, it's just not commonly done. Especially on any trade routes. Cheers. |
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None wants to be responsible for telling an unknown 24-year-old to go solo anything above their pay grade or below it. Often it's because the mentors of wisdom were once young and foolish, and doing the exact same things you want to do. Most survived. The Climber's Ranch opens in mid-June so you might find a partner there if you stop by and ask around. There are many options for climbing in June but it's still snow season above 9000'. You can certainly try the Upper Exum, Symmetry Spire or Guides Wall. Or the others mentioned above. Rope soloing is not common in the Tetons but it has been done on the Exum Ridge under pretty icy conditions. The approach above 9000' may be a greater threat to your health and welfare. More than likely, you'll find plenty of dry rock on Exum's sunny sections until you get above the Friction Pitch. The V-Pitch is usually icy or snow covered come mid-June. Try the lieback along its eastern wall or bootpack up the slabs east of there. If you have a rope, you can use the Owen Rap and avoid the icier parts of the Owen on your descent. The days are long in mid-June. You'll have more time to play around in sunshine. The gudes are guiding the Upper Exum come June so you may have company but it's usually pretty quiet so don't worry about "trade routes" being busy. No matter what you choose to do, don't let common sense get in the way of every challenge in the Tetons. You'll never climb anything, or learn anything, or have the opportunity to warn others about how deadly and dumb it is to do what you once did. You'll certainly earn your turns in June if you're above tree line and it's a great time to in the Tetons if you do go out. As they say in the Air Force: Aim High … |
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The tick list does not inspire me that you are likely to succeed on Symmetry Spire, e.g. It appears so close and not so big but it is a bigger day than you expect and the nature of reading the route may challenge you. Guides Wall has more straightforward features to follow, parallel route options and easier bail options, plus an easier approach. |
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East Ridge of Cube Point 5.4 |
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I’m working in Yellowstone and am down to climb whatever get at me I got my own gear + extra. |
