Party of 3: juggin the haul line?
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when I've done walls in a party of 3 in the past i've just had the second follower ride the pig out on the weighted pulley and then jug the haul line. I seem to remember some folks saying "YGD" to that method - is there something particularly dangerous about juggin on the pully? what other method would folks recommend? |
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https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/big-wall-teams-of-three/ to answer my own question, just found this nice graphic, i guess second follower could just jug a fixed line quickly, and then unfix and set up for hauling when they get to the anchor. This would be safer and wouldn't really be slower if the leader is short fixing..... I am still curious if folks have serious issues with jugging against a haul set up / pulley. It does seem kind of sketchy but I don't know if it is actually dangerous, assuming you back it up? |
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http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/328813/Jugging-fully-loaded-haul-line I've also thought about this but I've never wanted to jug on a toothed cam like that of a micro or protrax. Alpine Savvy said that bounce testing puts around 2-3 kn of force on a piece, and if thats similar to the force of you jugging (bouncing up and down on a static rope) plus the weight of a 100 pound pig, it may start to get a little hairy lol. If you were to do this on a classic wall hauler you actually would die (they're only rated to 1 kn). |
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https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/127309691/sheath-blown-through-on-west-face-of-leaning-tower |
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from PTPP: Yer gonna die! N00bs - don't do this! Ever! Jug the line before it's weighted! Convert your jugging system to a Frog, and you'll be up in only a few minutes. Sheesh. " |
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https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/106280731/fatal-accident-in-zion-on-touchstone?page=2 Some discussion of the accident on pages 2 and 3. It just seems like another variable and potential accident vector that can be avoided. |
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When we do a party of 3 we have just brought 2 lead lines and a haul line. Leader fixes their lead line. Begins to haul. 2nd jugs and cleans, bringing up 2nd lead line. When they arrive at anchor they fix that line. If the leader hasn’t finished hauling they stop and leave it for the 3rd to finish (assuming the pig wont get stuck on anything.) Leader and 2nd begin pushing ropes up next pitch. 3rd arrives and finishes haul, organizes shit, etc. |
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No Face wrote: Thank you for saving me the bother. I owe you a beer. |
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No Face wrote: As others have said I would not jug on it hanging from your progress capture device (Protraxion, micro etc). I have done this method several times with good success but with a minor tweak. We ALWAYS fixed the haul line to the anchor with a hard knot (usually an unfinished 8). Then after the 2nd person jugs and the 3rd goes to haul they just put the fixed line onto the progress capture device and haul. |