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Party of 3: juggin the haul line?

Original Post
No Face · · Yubaba's bathhouse · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 1

when I've done walls in a party of 3 in the past i've just had the second follower ride the pig out on the weighted pulley and then jug the haul line. I seem to remember some folks saying "YGD" to that method - is there something particularly dangerous about juggin on the pully? what other method would folks recommend? 

No Face · · Yubaba's bathhouse · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 1

https://www.vdiffclimbing.com/big-wall-teams-of-three/

to answer my own question, just found this nice graphic, i guess second follower could just jug a fixed line quickly, and then unfix and set up for hauling when they get to the anchor. This would be safer and wouldn't really be slower if the leader is short fixing.....

I am still curious if folks have serious issues with jugging against a haul set up / pulley. It does seem kind of sketchy but I don't know if it is actually dangerous, assuming you back it up? 

Matthew Hoff · · 5.9 crusher · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 906

http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/328813/Jugging-fully-loaded-haul-line 

https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/bounce-test-to-learn-gear-placement#:~:text=While%20a%20bounce%20test%20is,re%20placing%20your%20gear%20correctly.

I've also thought about this but I've never wanted to jug on a toothed cam like that of a micro or protrax. Alpine Savvy said that bounce testing puts around 2-3 kn of force on a piece, and if thats similar to the force of you jugging (bouncing up and down on a static rope) plus the weight of a 100 pound pig, it may start to get a little hairy lol. If you were to do this on a classic wall hauler you actually would die (they're only rated to 1 kn). 

Kyle Pereira · · California · Joined May 2022 · Points: 65

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/127309691/sheath-blown-through-on-west-face-of-leaning-tower
I'd recommend giving this a read, it answers some of your questions.

No Face · · Yubaba's bathhouse · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 1

from PTPP:
"Bloody hell. What are you thinking?! All that piggage plus you jugging and bouncing on a very tiny toothed cam rated to 5 kN? Have you seen the size of the pin holding that cam? It's as thin as a paper clip FFS. 

Yer gonna die!

N00bs - don't do this! Ever!  Jug the line before it's weighted! Convert your jugging system to a Frog, and you'll be up in only a few minutes. 

Sheesh. "

Jack Kelly · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Oct 2017 · Points: 490

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/106280731/fatal-accident-in-zion-on-touchstone?page=2

Some discussion of the accident on pages 2 and 3.

It just seems like another variable and potential accident vector that can be avoided.

Corey Bringas · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined May 2018 · Points: 65

When we do a party of 3 we have just brought 2 lead lines and a haul line. Leader fixes their lead line. Begins to haul. 2nd jugs and cleans, bringing up 2nd lead line. When they arrive at anchor they fix that line. If the leader hasn’t finished hauling they stop and leave it for the 3rd to finish (assuming the pig wont get stuck on anything.) Leader and 2nd begin pushing ropes up next pitch. 3rd arrives and finishes haul, organizes shit, etc.

Peter Zabrok · · Hamilton, ON · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 645
No Face wrote:

from PTPP:
"Bloody hell. What are you thinking?! All that piggage plus you jugging and bouncing on a very tiny toothed cam rated to 5 kN? Have you seen the size of the pin holding that cam? It's as thin as a paper clip FFS. 

Yer gonna die!

N00bs - don't do this! Ever!  Jug the line before it's weighted! Convert your jugging system to a Frog, and you'll be up in only a few minutes. 

Sheesh. "

Thank you for saving me the bother.  I owe you a beer. 

Marlin Thorman · · Spokane, WA · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 2,646
No Face wrote:

when I've done walls in a party of 3 in the past i've just had the second follower ride the pig out on the weighted pulley and then jug the haul line. I seem to remember some folks saying "YGD" to that method - is there something particularly dangerous about juggin on the pully? what other method would folks recommend? 

As others have said I would not jug on it hanging from your progress capture device (Protraxion, micro etc).  I have done this method several times with good success but with a minor tweak.  We ALWAYS fixed the haul line to the anchor with a hard knot (usually an unfinished 8).  Then after the 2nd person jugs and the 3rd goes to haul they just put the fixed line onto the progress capture device and haul. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Big Wall and Aid Climbing
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