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6 week training program

Original Post
Rachel S · · Washington · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 30

Hello! Who has a good 6 week training program for sport climbing and/or single and multi-pitch trad climbing? I have access to all the training type things. Ideally it is in a pdf form and I can input the training days into my complex schedule. I'm happy to pay for a generic program too but I don't want a 1-on-1 coach. Thanks!

Cosmic Hotdog · · Southern California · Joined Sep 2019 · Points: 350

In order to get the most helpful replies, it might be good to give some basic info in terms of:

  • What you're doing currently, your current climbing grade, and very specific climbing goals you have (if you don't have any, think about it and come up with one or two)
  • Your current level of fitness, your experience level with fitness in general, assuming you already workout - how long you've been doing it

Only trying to help you get the best replies is all. A super general program isn't going to be worth much, whereas something tailored towards peaking for a particular style of climbing would be a better use of time. Training for sport climbing is different from training for trad, and training for single pitch vs. multi-pitch is even more different.

JaredG · · Tucson, AZ · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 17

Here's a generic plan.

Thing 1: DO NOT GET INJURED.  If you feel the slightest tweak in your finger or shoulder, shut it down and go home right away (or maybe go walk on a treadmill or something).  If you feel too tired to do a given workout, call it off or just run some easy top rope laps.
Thing 2: It's usually better to leave a little gas in the tank.  If you go so hard on Monday's workout that you can't climb on Wednesday, your progress will be slower.  Go home *before* you start tweaking fingers.

M - limit bouldering, 45-90 minutes
T - auxiliary work
W - hang board max hangs, ~30 minutes. Then red point lead climbing 1-2 hrs.
Th - auxiliary work
F - 4x4s
Sa - endurance climbing
Su - rest

repeat 6 times.

*limit bouldering: after a thorough warmup on easier boulders, climb boulder problems at your limit (i.e. just a bit too hard to red point in 1 session).  Be sure to rest a lot, like 5 minutes between "send goes".

*hang board max hangs: after a thorough warmup, start a timer on your phone and find a good edge about 20mm deep (bottom edge of beastmaker 1000 is good).  Every 3 minutes, hang from that edge for as long as possible. If it's more than 10 seconds, you need to add weight (put on a harness and loop a sling through a weight plate).  If it's less than 5 seconds, you need to take off weight with a pulley system (preferred), take off weight with your feet, or find a bigger edge.  Do 5 hangs with an open-handed "3-finger drag", then 5 hangs with a half crimp.

*4x4s: choose a problem about 3 V-grades below your hardest climb from limit bouldering.  Climb it 4 times in a row.  Rest 5 minutes. Choose another similar problem, and repeat.  Repeat 4 times. You'll know the grade is right if you're super pumped.

*endurance climbing: with autobelays or a patient partner, choose a super easy route and run laps for 15-20 minutes.  Rest 20 minutes then do it again.  Rest another 20 then laps for another 20.

*auxiliary work: could be just rest.  Or mobility/stretching work like frog pose and pigeon pose.  Or if you're energetic, 30 minutes of running, core, or even weightlifting work.  I personally find that doing *something* helps with my consistency/adherence to a program.

Israel R · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 87

Lattice and power company both make generic plans for different skill levels. If you don't want to make your own plan, it's probably best to try one of those plans.

I'd be pretty skeptical about any plan provided by a random person on MP. Forums like this and r/climbharder are more useful for back and forth where you then integrate the information into your own plan.

I support Jared's point about not getting injured. You can basically do any plan and see progress if you don't get injured.

Chris Nunley · · Spokane, WA · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 184

Climbstrong’s logical progression is $35 and has some good programs in it. I like this non-periodized style of training for when I’m busy and just need a few workouts to knock out each week. 

Trevor Kerber · · Tempe, AZ · Joined Feb 2022 · Points: 10

I'd just try JaredG's generic plan for 6 weeks.

Reasons: 1) it was free 2) it was 6 weeks long 3) it was generic

Big Red · · Seattle · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,189

You can ask chatgpt. Seriously, it's pretty good at conjuring up a generic training plan based on your constraints.

Rachel S · · Washington · Joined Jul 2012 · Points: 30

Thank you all! Good stuff.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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