Colorado V10 suggestions

John Gill wrote:

Newlin Creek is wooded, along a slight stream between mountains, so it might be getting a little late this year. But we are in a drought, so. I hiked the trail and did a little light bouldering there maybe forty years ago. Nice rock. Fred Nicole stopped by my house to visit on a trip he made there some time later. John Sherman also did a few things there in the 1990s I think. 

I once found an eight-pounder cannonball on the slopes above the creek. It's on my desk downstairs.

No way where exactly did you find a cannonball lmao, i want one

Zane Darwish wrote:

No way where exactly did you find a cannonball lmao, i want one

On the wooded mountain slope to the right as you enter the canyon. My friend went up a week later and found another. Probably re-enacters.

John Gill wrote:

On the wooded mountain slope to the right as you enter the canyon. My friend went up a week later and found another. Probably re-enacters.

Interesting i might have to look around up there, thanks!

After reading this thread I checked out the Crypt and was blown away by it‘s quality. Such a good boulder. After sending that, the V12- on the same boulder, and 2 other V10s nearby I was feeling a little cocky and wanted to give a flash go on Moulin Rouge since everyone here said it was so soft. I proceeded to get shut down by the heel hook left hand bump move for about 4 hours. I’m 5’8 so I wasn’t expecting it to be easy but that move felt HARD! It is a very cool boulder regardless.

Anyways, just thought I’d chime in and give some kudos to anyone who did get Moulin as their first V10! Stoked to get back on and flail some more. Then I’ll probably spend the rest of my climbing days trying to find The Nickness.

I've now realized that the difficulty on Moulin Rouge may be partially dependent on reach, but actually has more to do with hip mobility and using the left heel hook. My hip mobility, particularly with high heel hooks, is absolutely awful. People without such limitations can actually weight that left heel and move the hand with control.

The Nickness is directly on the trail into Newlin Creek, it is unmissable (as long as you know where the trailhead is).

The Nickness as a first V10 would be wild  

Folks who know front range bouldering know that virtually every V10 here has some significant issue with it. 606 is pay access and is really cold and glassy right up until it's too hot. Newlin Creek is 2+ hours drive each way from Denver Metro. Whispers has the notorious high exit, where you want snow but not too much. Purity Control has a heinously long opening crux move. Moulin Rouge is considered by enough to be V8 to be considered an "asterisk" problem, while many other V10 contenders in the region are considered to be actually V9. The Dark Waters cave will start filling up with water any day now. Dark Horse is reachy and a bit on the high side. Crimping Matters has a brutal first move for the short. And so on.

I did a search of boulders rated V10 in CO just now and there aren't a lot I would say are great first V10s.

In other words for a first V10, I would head to Hueco or Joe's, or better yet skip the grade and get on V11.

Peter Beal wrote:

Folks who know front range bouldering know that virtually every V10 here has some significant issue with it. 606 is pay access and is really cold and glassy right up until it's too hot. Newlin Creek is 2+ hours drive each way from Denver Metro. Whispers has the notorious high exit, where you want snow but not too much. Purity Control has a heinously long opening crux move. Moulin Rouge is considered by enough to be V8 to be considered an "asterisk" problem, while many other V10 contenders in the region are considered to be actually V9. The Dark Waters cave will start filling up with water any day now. Dark Horse is reachy and a bit on the high side. Crimping Matters has a brutal first move for the short. And so on.

I did a search of boulders rated V10 in CO just now and there aren't a lot I would say are great first V10s.

In other words for a first V10, I would head to Hueco or Joe's, or better yet skip the grade and get on V11.

100% agree about all that. For 606, since fingers are my strength, I was like cool, no prob... but 606 is SO glassy. 

Then there's purity control, which I also thought was gonna be pretty straight forward but I literally cannot establish the start. I'm 5'4 which I don't normally feel like is a limitation, but the pockets are out of reach even if someone picks me up. I guess I technically can touch them but that's it. 

The first move on crimping matters is pretty hard for my height, def not V10. I get by with a super tight drop knee and being very precise and dynamic... shame it's so brutal cuz the rest of it is nice.

Peter Beal wrote:

Folks who know front range bouldering know that virtually every V10 here has some significant issue with it. 606 is pay access and is really cold and glassy right up until it's too hot. Newlin Creek is 2+ hours drive each way from Denver Metro. Whispers has the notorious high exit, where you want snow but not too much. Purity Control has a heinously long opening crux move. Moulin Rouge is considered by enough to be V8 to be considered an "asterisk" problem, while many other V10 contenders in the region are considered to be actually V9. The Dark Waters cave will start filling up with water any day now. Dark Horse is reachy and a bit on the high side. Crimping Matters has a brutal first move for the short. And so on.

I did a search of boulders rated V10 in CO just now and there aren't a lot I would say are great first V10s.

In other words for a first V10, I would head to Hueco or Joe's, or better yet skip the grade and get on V11.

Care to provide the examples of the V10’s that are actually V9’s? They sound like perfect contenders for the purpose of this thread….

hifno wrote:

I've now realized that the difficulty on Moulin Rouge may be partially dependent on reach, but actually has more to do with hip mobility and using the left heel hook. My hip mobility, particularly with high heel hooks, is absolutely awful. People without such limitations can actually weight that left heel and move the hand with control.

The Nickness is directly on the trail into Newlin Creek, it is unmissable (as long as you know where the trailhead is).

Very true. People make that move look so smooth in videos. It felt many degrees harder than I expected! I couldn’t keep my heel from popping as soon as I latched the left hand. Guess it’s time to start stretching! 

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

Care to provide the examples of the V10’s that are actually V9’s? They sound like perfect contenders for the purpose of this thread….

I’m not sure how others feel but Early And Often in Castlewood Canyon felt quite a bit easier than the other V10s I’ve been on/sent. It might just suit my style but I’d say it would be a great first V10, especially if small holds tend to shut you down.