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Colorado V10 suggestions
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Hello, I'm trying to climb my first V10, so am looking for suggestions around the front range (though not wholly opposed to elsewhere as long as the elsewhere is somewhere like vegas). I have strong fingers and good footwork. I am okay at big/shoulders moves but it's not my strength. Since it's my first of the grade, something on the soft side that relies on finger strength and technique would be best. :) thanks Also, if you are on the front range and like to boulder, hmu. |
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If I could ever climb this grade, this is the one I would try to do https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106443076/whispers-of-wisdom Perhaps much easier to access this time of year and more crimp forward: |
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Arrowhead Arete and Moulin Rouge are some other local Front Range options. The difficultly might depend on how tall or what wingspan you have, both are more difficult if you are shorter. The Crypt down in Mitchell Creek is another one. |
Jess Presso wrote: I’m assuming you’re looking for one that climbs well in the winter/spring? |
Not Not MP Admin wrote: Yes, that's the preference but happy to have recommendations for other times of year |
hifno wrote: Yeah I'm like 5'4 ... so not tiny*!! but definitely not big enough to have a decent wing span |
Jess Presso wrote: Hmm yeah, I'm 5'6" and found both Arrowhead and Moulin Rouge to be more challenging. Moulin is still very doable for shorties though and pretty easy to project without a lot of pads, which is why I've tried to make it my project this fall/winter. The Crypt is not too reachy either, just surprisingly hard. |
hifno wrote: That’s cause Moulin is (not so) secretly like V8….jk, jk…..kind of…a great suggestion for first V10 nonetheless. I’ve found V10’s in the front range that are in-season during the winter months are somewhat sparse. |
Not Not MP Admin wrote: Haha, it probably is pretty soft for the grade, but only dependent on height/wingspan. If you have a 6' wingspan then maybe it could be V8. But for us shorties... Agreed that Front Range V10s in the low elevations are not plentiful. I'm following this thread partially so I can get more ideas. Other problems that come to mind: Purity Control, Treebeard, Dark Waters, Koyaanisqatsi. But they all feel harder than Moulin Rouge. |
hifno wrote: Yeah, I’m a shorty as well. My span is only 5’6” so I feel the pain. A great one to break into the grade for sure though.
Well that’s because Moulin Rouge is……ah never mind You could also add The Nickness to your list. One of the best in the state. |
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The Nickness! That’s in Newlin Creek right? I’ll add that to my “to flail on” list. To the OP, Newlin Creek is south of Florence, so not quite as convenient as the other problems mentioned, but is a very worthwhile destination. Not much info on Mountain Project though. |
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Newlin Creek is wooded, along a slight stream between mountains, so it might be getting a little late this year. But we are in a drought, so. I hiked the trail and did a little light bouldering there maybe forty years ago. Nice rock. Fred Nicole stopped by my house to visit on a trip he made there some time later. John Sherman also did a few things there in the 1990s I think. I once found an eight-pounder cannonball on the slopes above the creek. It's on my desk downstairs. |
hifno wrote: Thanks for letting me know that! I hadn't heard of Newlin Creek before |
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Any updates on this? Did you find one that you put down? I'm in the same boat, leaning towards Moulin since it's so close and I'm 5'11 |
Doug Brunner wrote: I got sidetracked/busy and decided that training was more worth my time earlier in the season... when it gets a little cooler I am planning to go to 606, but probably will check out Moulin, as well as some others that I have on my to-do list. |
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In a similar situation trying to find a good first v10. There are 2 that I’m working right now at pretty newer areas so I’m not sure if they are v10 or not if you’re interested in trying them I’d be interested to see what you think. Let me know if you want to do a session some day or PM me for more info. |
Jess Presso wrote: If you can, come down to Joe’s this year-tons of V10’s that work for smaller people. My first was Fingerhut. I’ve heard Moulin Rougue and Dark Horse in Colorado are good |
Addy S wrote: As someone who has climbed all 3 of these I will chime in. I’m not sure I would say Moulin Rougue is easier for shorties, though it is quite soft. People like to take V10 for it even though consensus is it’s a V9/10 by most folks standards. There’s a reason it’s everyone’s first V10 Dark Horse was worlds harder for me. With a 5’6” span it felt pretty benchmark for the grade...it’s also not an easy one for shorties either lol the first move (which leads to the crux) is significantly easier for longer limbed folk to reach the good part of the hold in a more controlled manner and do the next move, which is also large. Good hip mobility helps for both cruxes if you’re shorter IMO. Seriously, Adalayde please provide input to things you have first hands experience. Fingerhut is an excellent suggestion and I agree, even if not in Colorado. |
Not Not MP Admin wrote: Sorry about the lack of input. The Colorado ones I’ve listed aren’t the greatest for shorties but I know quite a few comp kids from Colorado who that was their firsts. I’ve tried both but didn’t send because I’m not too strong lol but they felt doable. Fingerhut is sick though |
Addy S wrote: Oh nice. Yeah, I've been meaning to get to Joe's, it may be about time to prioritize going.. |
Jess Presso wrote: Come down for the fest and climb with me! Fair warning I’m a teen so I know I can be very awkward to climb with but I’m super stoked and would love to show you classics plus fingerhut |
