What Does Your Woody Look Like??? v3.0

Late to the party but i just built this last month. 12x12 @35° 

Do you guys have any training strategies or circuits that work for you ?

I'm on it about 3 times a week. I try hard moves and push myself and otherwise i'm trying to link multiple problems and fight the pump. 

Any advice is appreciated

Finally got this built in the garage. 30 degrees ~12'x8'. My plan is to make all the holds myself, so I skipped T nuts. Doing wood and plastic. Not very good at carving the hardwood yet but pretty happy with how the 3D printed ones are turning out. Found a few models online but now I'm on a roll cranking out my own with OpenSCAD. Texture was slippery at first but I'm dialing in the settings. Should have this very populated by the end of January.

Jeremy Till wrote:

Finally got this built in the garage. 30 degrees ~12'x8'. My plan is to make all the holds myself, so I skipped T nuts. Doing wood and plastic. Not very good at carving the hardwood yet but pretty happy with how the 3D printed ones are turning out. Found a few models online but now I'm on a roll cranking out my own with OpenSCAD. Texture was slippery at first but I'm dialing in the settings. Should have this very populated by the end of January.

Powerful sanding equipment is the way for hold making. Some kind of saw to cut blanks, a benchtop belt sander, a router (optional for consistent roundovers/incuts), and a cheap drill press to get your mounting holes straight

Need to strip the kicker of the Moon feet and fill some gaps/remove some of the holds I don't like. 

Just finished building this 9x9ft 30° garage wall.

Currently have it setup for Ice/Mixed training.

We have a store here in Squam that sells used construction materials and iv been buying all sorts of weird hardware to make fun holds.

It's the first time in my climbing journey that iv been genuinely stoked to train.

Karl Walters wrote:

Need to strip the kicker of the Moon feet and fill some gaps/remove some of the holds I don't like. Really not a fan of the TB2 resin holds.

Drooling. And yeah, the resin tb2 holds are good for a standardized board, but not my favorite board holds

Karl Walters wrote:

What is the secret to filling out a board like this? I don't have a lot of money to throw at it 

Throw small amounts of money over a long period

I used to make and sell holds and for a long time most were mine. I slowly have given away most of what was on my wall and bought shapes I couldn't make with any "profit" I made. But the above poster is right- just buy holds here and there. It helps that my company allows us to expense a certain amount of sporting equipment per year. Traded stuff with others. I've accumulated these since March 2020. Lots of companies were giving discounts during early COVID too.

Gyms often sell used holds (which are nicer than new ones because they are more skin friendly). Our gym prices by weight, so you can buy lots of small board holds relatively cheap.

Finished up board in the top of my barn. 40 degree Moonboard plus infill with wooden holds. Added a crack trainer to the side of the board. Thanks for the inspiration!

Lemme see more of that crack trainer. I'm considering adding one on mine 

Super easy to build, add an extra 2x6 to the side. Use M8 threaded rods to attach it, I have 4 of them, to change the width and clamp it shut with a wooden spacer at the desired jam width, i.e. fist, hand etc. With 4 rods you can set variable widths so the crack flares. Very easy addition to the board, low costs and probably took a couple of hours to build. Oh yeh, cut the 2x6 at an angle at the base so it rests on the floor.

Does anyone have any recs for a US domestic wooden holdmaker in the stye of beastmaker/hardwood holds? I am looking to expand my spraywall inspired by the brits, but the shipping is a little steep

You can order wooden hold packs from Tension, but I'm not sure about shipping cost.   Escape has some wood holds, and their shipping has always been reasonable on the non-wooden holds I've ordered from them.  

I've also gotten some nice small crimps and edges directly from [edit] Stoked Illusion, buying from them through IG.  You could try messaging them if you are on there and see if more holds are available.. I think they were leftovers from a prior run of holds.  

Check out and see if Dub Grips is still doing orders

www.dubgrips.com

I am sir Dub Grips and I no longer publicly sell holds but still make em here or there. Unfortunately it seems the small maker hold market has gotten insanely expensive. I perused ETSY to find things and post here but the makers I liked are all gone it seems and what is in their place is disturbingly overpriced. Crimps and edges are maybe $.50 to $1 of wood and looking at the shapes on there you're talking 5-10 of real work. $30 a pair is insanity and offensive.

Beastmaker custom holds including shipping are a lot cheaper than you'd expect usually $6-$10 a hold which makes them cost competitive with anything made in the U.S. and their stock holds are all pretty solid options for the most part. If you got some of their basic pinches, crimps, etc you could easily customize them as well.

My rec is to buy a used small bandsaw or bench sander off your local Craigslist. Or find a friend with a compound miter saw. Most basic crimps and pinches are just angled rectangles and you can create interesting countours or tapers mostly through sanding. If you went to your local hardwood store or box lumber store and got some 3/4" and 1" strips of Poplar you could have a few dozen basic holds in an afternoon. For bigger stuff you'll need a bigger saw in some cases or you can laminate and slowly cut corners off to create rounded pinches.

Ft the human torch