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Top Rope Practice Anchor

Original Post
Torin S · · LA, CA · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 0

Apologies if this is on the wrong board.  I wanted some feedback on the practice top rope anchor I built. Assuming the crag has 2 rap rings close together would this set up be safe to climb on?  If not, how can I improve?  Thanks!

Devan Bee · · Nashville, TN · Joined Dec 2024 · Points: 83

Yes, it's a fine TR anchor and looks just like the first one I ever built. No notes.

But, dude, if you don't know for certain without someone else telling you, then you shouldn't be using it. In climbing, what you don't know will kill you. Don't rely on YouTube and MP. Find a clinic or a class, make a friend, or even join a group climb, so that you can learn the skills you need in a safe environment with a mentor to check you. 

Also, there is a beginning climbers forum here.

Torin S · · LA, CA · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 0
Devan Bee wrote:

Yes, it's a fine TR anchor and looks just like the first one I ever built. No notes.

But, dude, if you don't know for certain without someone else telling you, then you shouldn't be using it. In climbing, what you don't know will kill you. Don't rely on YouTube and MP. Find a clinic or a class, make a friend, or even join a group climb, so that you can learn the skills you need in a safe environment with a mentor to check you. 

Also, there is a beginning climbers forum here.

Definitely agree with you on all that!  I'm in a rock safety course now and doing some head start homework before the future course days that will go over all this stuff in person with competent/experienced leaders.  

Thanks for the heads up on the beginner climber forum!

Tim Page · · Bend, OR · Joined Nov 2012 · Points: 10

I would clip the bolts not the rap rings. Good call taking a class, a good mentor helps too. 

Daniel Joder · · Barcelona, ES · Joined Nov 2015 · Points: 0
Tim Page wrote:

I would clip the bolts not the rap rings. Good call taking a class, a good mentor helps too. 

Perhaps this might be obvious, but if you do as Tim suggests, consider clipping the bolts under the maillons so that the carabiner isn’t levered in an odd way when loaded. And, yes, I’ll also second his suggestion for taking an anchor class and finding a mentor. If you get a few friends together, hiring a guide could be another reasonably cost effective way of getting some personalized instruction.
(And this is just me, but I’d consider your setup just as pictured to be super good enough.)

jay2718 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2009 · Points: 5

Yes, clip the hangers under the quick-links (Maillons) as noted. This eliminates 4 unnecessary potential failure points. Since you use 2 lockers, you could align the gates, so the rope runs more smoothly when weighted (opposing gates is more fool proof). The training recommendations might be since your gear looks brand new, and while your anchor is sufficient, it's never that easy to set up a TR. For example, two side-by-side bolts implies a sport route anchor, and having all the skills to lead the route, clip in safely, and set up the anchor. Top-access TR anchors often require equalizing several pieces of gear, and the skills to work safely at the edge of the cliff. It's just very rare to find a TR that only requires you to walk up and clip two bolts. So in outdoor climbing, there are lots of additional skills and knowledge implied by the example anchor in your photo.

Hope that helps.

Chris Wernette · · Ann Arbor, MI · Joined Apr 2022 · Points: 0

If you clip the same 2 or 3 strands with the 2 crabs the rope will run better over them as opposed to being kinked. You don’t need 4 strands redundancy 2 or 3 is good. Also HMS or Ovals will have a larger bend radius so therefore will be smoother and less kinked as well. You can consider something like the Edelrid bulletproof HMS for the rope side crabs and it will last a lot longer as well.


Regarding the other comments about where to clip the anchor side crabs it’s six of one half dozen of the other IMO just be cognizant of how you will have to weight and unweight the systems when cleaning, and that you will have to pass your rope through the lowest set of rings to lower off of when cleaning.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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