Things climbing-related that annoy you
|
Alan Rubin wrote: Hand switch? Slip slap slide? |
|
Caleb wrote: Yeah, that's basically what I do, I guess--though never heard it called 'tunnneling" ( did you make that up Caleb?) or anything else other than 'belaying'. Though, as I said in my previous post, no single technique works best in all situations, so I'll mix it up sometimes depending on the circumstances---but always keeping my hand on the brake side and paying attention---those are the things that matter the most. |
|
Alan Rubin wrote: Not official or anything, but Ben from Hard is Easy calls it the "tunnel method". It's definitely not something you should be doing on an ATC, but on an assisted braking device, the calculus changes and he argues that he considers it safe enough. |
|
When each pitch of a multi pitch route has its own name. |
|
J L wrote: Except that's the way everybody (including me to this day) always belayed for decades with figure 8's, tubers, sticht plates etc before the gyms came around and made everyone do the ridiculous hand switching thing. There's nothing unsafe about it, if you know how to belay. Caught plenty of falls, never dropped anyone. It's actually quite hard to lose control of the rope when your hand and the rope and the device are in the correct position. |
|
I got accused of “tunneling” by the staff at the gym. While using a gri-gri. I’d never heard of it either. Climbing Annoyance: The years it took to build technique have broken my body and sapped my ability to build strength. |
|
J L wrote: The second paragraph is ridiculous!!! I'm totally in the same 'camp' with Phylp on this. Been 'tunneling' --as it is seemingly now being called, for decades with multiple types of devices ( and actually before we had belay devices), including now ATCs for years, without problems including catching all sorts of falls. Sure, undoubtedly there are potential failure modes with this belay system, as there are with all of them, but having a very simple, adaptable, straightforward system that has stood the 'test of time', is what I will continue to use whenever I can avoid the wrath of the gym 'belay police'. |
|
Ricky Harline wrote: This isn't correct. I started climbing in the Gunks in '72. Went from hip belay to chain link to Stitch plate to tube device to ATC. Never was taught the munter and never used it for belaying in 53 years. I don't recall ever seeing anyone in the Gunks, Yosemite, or Eldo using a Munter for belaying in the 70's. I've not heard of PBUS or tunneling; I'm with Al and Phylp - we just called it belaying. |
|
Marc801 C wrote: Thanks for the clarification. The way he belays would make a lot of sense for the munter but doesn't for a plate or tube device. When people first started using sticht plates and tube devices was it common to belay with your hands above the device most of the time? Every operation he does his hands are above the device, and only once he has taken in rope does he lower his brake hand into position below the device and into a good braking position. Did you see this a lot? Seems very less than ideal to me. |
|
Nick Goldsmith wrote: fixed it |
|
Threats to climbing access. |
|
Caleb wrote: You mean climbers? |
|
IJMayer wrote: You are not welcome at Index. |
|
Pink point |
|
People |
|
Untangling a rope Dehydration People who do this for fun and not as a way to sublimate into a being that is neither man nor climber, neither and both are the same time Choss |
|
People who use liquid chalk with pof aka rosin aka pine resin in it, which gunks up the holds outside. What’s more annoying is most companies putting this in their liquid chalk and not telling anyone, and disguising it with a different name. And what’s the most annoying is when people get defensive when you try to educate them, similar to the toproping off fixed gear issue. |
|
People who say that different types of climbing aren't "climbing". Like sport climbing isn't climbing. Aid climbing isn't climbing. Top roping isn't climbing. That anything without substantial risk isn't climbing. For me the most rewarding climbs have been were I'm high above my protection and facing serious risk and needing absolute focus. But I'm not about to tell an 8 year old kid "you're not climbing" because they are top roping. |
|
Glowering wrote: I agree that those are valid forms of climbing. But one of my related gripes is if you say you sent the route, but don’t mention it was on toprope. To send it has to be cleanly climbed on lead, no falls no takes. Of course some climbs are top rope only so maybe that’s an asterisk. |
|
Toe hole |