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Things climbing-related that annoy you

L Kap · · Boulder, CO · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 105
Alan Rubin wrote:

I just belay as I have for many years, no idea what, if anything, the method is called--it is just simply belaying. 

Hand switch? Slip slap slide?

https://youtu.be/5egJuxizA2k?si=LLUUq6Wm-HlIkidf

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10
Caleb wrote:

Probably “tunneling”: moving your hand along the brake strand without having the other hand on the brake.  

Yeah, that's basically what I do, I guess--though never heard it called 'tunnneling" ( did you make that up Caleb?) or anything else other than 'belaying'. Though, as I said in my previous post, no single technique works best in all situations, so I'll mix it up sometimes depending on the circumstances---but always keeping my hand on the brake side and paying attention---those are the things that matter the most.

J L · · Craggin' · Joined Jul 2023 · Points: 4
Alan Rubin wrote:

Yeah, that's basically what I do, I guess--though never heard it called 'tunnneling" ( did you make that up Caleb?)

Not official or anything, but Ben from Hard is Easy calls it the "tunnel method".

It's definitely not something you should be doing on an ATC, but on an assisted braking device, the calculus changes and he argues that he considers it safe enough.

IJMayer · · Guemes Island, WA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 350

When each pitch of a multi pitch route has its own name. 

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,137
J L wrote:

Not official or anything, but Ben from Hard is Easy calls it the "tunnel method".

It's definitely not something you should be doing on an ATC, but on an assisted braking device, the calculus changes and he argues that he considers it safe enough.

Except that's the way everybody (including me to this day) always belayed for decades with figure 8's, tubers, sticht plates etc before the gyms came around and made everyone do the ridiculous hand switching thing.  There's nothing unsafe about it, if you know how to belay. Caught plenty of falls, never dropped anyone. It's actually quite hard to lose control of the rope when your hand and the rope and the device are in the correct position.

Caleb · · Ward, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 270

I got accused of “tunneling” by the staff at the gym.  While using a gri-gri. I’d never heard of it either.
I think it’s fine as long as there is no opportunity for you to lose control of the brake strand.  To me that means my thumb and fingers always stay in contact with the rope inside the circle ready to grip.  I’ve done it for many years with all manner of devices.  It’s the reverse of lead belaying with a tube style.

Climbing Annoyance:  The years it took to build technique have broken my body and sapped my ability to build strength.

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10
J L wrote:

Not official or anything, but Ben from Hard is Easy calls it the "tunnel method".

It's definitely not something you should be doing on an ATC, but on an assisted braking device, the calculus changes and he argues that he considers it safe enough.

The second paragraph is ridiculous!!! I'm totally in the same 'camp' with Phylp on this. Been 'tunneling' --as it is seemingly now being called, for decades with multiple types of devices ( and actually before we had belay devices), including now ATCs for years, without problems including catching all sorts of falls. Sure, undoubtedly there are potential failure modes with this belay system, as there are with all of them, but having a very simple, adaptable, straightforward system that has stood the 'test of time', is what I will continue to use whenever I can avoid the wrath of the gym 'belay police'.

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Ricky Harline wrote:

So it seems to me he was taught at a weird transition time where people were being taught to belay with belay devices but still being taught the old munter belay technique before the PBUS method was in wide practice.

This isn't correct. I started climbing in the Gunks in '72. Went from hip belay to chain link to Stitch plate to tube device to ATC. Never was taught the munter and  never used it for belaying in 53 years. I don't recall ever seeing anyone in the Gunks, Yosemite, or Eldo using a Munter for belaying in the 70's. I've not heard of PBUS or tunneling; I'm with Al and Phylp - we just called it belaying.

Ricky Harline · · Angel's Camp, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 147
Marc801 C wrote:

This isn't correct. I started climbing in the Gunks in '72. Went from hip belay to chain link to Stitch plate to tube device to ATC. Never was taught the munter and  never used it for belaying in 53 years. I don't recall ever seeing anyone in the Gunks, Yosemite, or Eldo using a Munter for belaying in the 70's. I've not heard of PBUS or tunneling; I'm with Al and Phylp - we just called it belaying.

Thanks for the clarification. The way he belays would make a lot of sense for the munter but doesn't for a plate or tube device. 

When people first started using sticht plates and tube devices was it common to belay with your hands above the device most of the time? Every operation he does his hands are above the device, and only once he has taken in rope does he lower his brake hand into position below the device and into a good braking position. Did you see this a lot? Seems very less than ideal to me. 

Jay Crew · · Apple Valley CA, · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 3,963
Nick Goldsmith wrote:

this  thread. Bunch of whiners. winners

fixed it

Caleb · · Ward, CO · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 270

Threats to climbing access.

Lorenzo de Amicis · · Seattle, WA · Joined Feb 2011 · Points: 15
Caleb wrote:

Threats to climbing access.

You mean climbers? 

Big Red · · Seattle · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 1,176
IJMayer wrote:

When each pitch of a multi pitch route has its own name. 

You are not welcome at Index.

David Miles · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2018 · Points: 191

Pink point 

Gumby King · · The Gym · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 52

People

TJ Bindseil · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 0

Untangling a rope

Dehydration

People who do this for fun and not as a way to sublimate into a being that is neither man nor climber, neither and both are the same time

Choss 

Chris Wernette · · Ann Arbor, MI · Joined Apr 2022 · Points: 0

People who use liquid chalk with pof aka rosin aka pine resin in it, which gunks up the holds outside.

What’s more annoying is most companies putting this in their liquid chalk and not telling anyone, and disguising it with a different name.

And what’s the most annoying is when people get defensive when you try to educate them, similar to the toproping off fixed gear issue.

Glowering · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2011 · Points: 16

People who say that different types of climbing aren't "climbing". Like sport climbing isn't climbing. Aid climbing isn't climbing. Top roping isn't climbing. That anything without substantial risk isn't climbing. For me the most rewarding climbs have been were I'm high above my protection and facing serious risk and needing absolute focus. But I'm not about to tell an 8 year old kid "you're not climbing" because they are top roping.

Chris Wernette · · Ann Arbor, MI · Joined Apr 2022 · Points: 0
Glowering wrote:

People who say that different types of climbing aren't "climbing". Like sport climbing isn't climbing. Aid climbing isn't climbing. Top roping isn't climbing. That anything without substantial risk isn't climbing. For me the most rewarding climbs have been were I'm high above my protection and facing serious risk and needing absolute focus. But I'm not about to tell an 8 year old kid "you're not climbing" because they are top roping.

I agree that those are valid forms of climbing. But one of my related gripes is if you say you sent the route, but don’t mention it was on toprope. To send it has to be cleanly climbed on lead, no falls no takes. Of course some climbs are top rope only so maybe that’s an asterisk.

Jabroni McChufferson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2024 · Points: 0

Toe hole 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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