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Free Google Doc for training information

Original Post
Austin Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 0

I get asked training advice a decent bit so I've started putting together a huge Google doc, of different resources and how to train all in one Google doc. So I can just send the link to this, instead of giving 5 million people training advice. If you want the link or want to proof read / contribute let me know 

EJN · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2012 · Points: 248

I'll bite, I'm interested

Austin Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 0

I don't know how links fare in mountain project but I'll also post the link below.

Austin Johnson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jan 2020 · Points: 0
Jeremiah White · · Colorado springs · Joined Feb 2021 · Points: 210

I heard you can send better if all your gear fits in a shopping basket. 

Connor Varney · · Lexington, KY · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 0

Seems like some of the links for the strength training articles off Climbstrong no longer work? Or they took the articles down from the site altogether. 

randy baum · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2006 · Points: 2,251

Thanks for sharing. I too have been down this path of listening to tons of podcasts and reading lots of blogs, accumulating a seemingly endless list of "nuggets" and training plans.  What I found is that while it's fun to learn and test out ideas, systematic training can be a whole lot of exercises and not enough actual climbing.  

My two cents, if you are trying to get strong for outdoor climbing (which is what I assume is the point as we are posting to MP), and if you are already climbing V5 or higher, then you just need to do this: board climb, board climb, board climb AND (this is key) rest more than you think.  

Throw in mobility and conditioning stuff for injury prevention and just general wellness/health, but keep that stuff to 10%, even just 5%, of your training time.   As for energy systems, boards can do that, too.  Do circuits, up downs, feet on ARCing, etc.  It all can be done on a board, especially an adjustable board like the TB2.  Don't believe all this?  Don't take my word, just take that of Adam Ondra, Janja Garnbret, and practically every other pro.  They all climb on boards, namely spray walls, and do few "exercises."

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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