What Granite Routes Should I Climb to Get Really Good at Climbing Granite?

I'm looking to climb some big granite routes (up to high end 5.11) in mid-late summer in the Sierra and the Winds. I am already a pretty decent climber on the sporty stuff (I've bouldered up to v8 and sport climbed up to 5.13-), but I'm aware that I'm a total chuffer on the techy granite stuff. I'm also pretty mid/bad at placing gear. I'm looking to figure out a sort of "northeast granite crash course" to get myself ready to climb some big rad shit. 

The only routes on my list right now are the Prow (ambitious) and Moby Grape (in early summer to avoid the spring loose rock). What routes would you add in New Hampshire and Vermont to turn me into a competent granite climber?

I have no experience on long 11+ granite routes out west but my experience on the 5.10/5.11- classics I've climbed there is that it's mostly about being able to efficiently climb 5.10 crack of all kinds. When you say techy granite stuff do you mean crack or weird vert trickery?

For crack the routes at Green's Cliff are the purest (and best) crack lines I've done in the Northeast but it's a bit of a hike (especially if the road closure stays for 2025?) At Cathedral there's a bunch of routes at the North End and the Barber Wall where crack technique helps, though I think they're not as punishing of mediocre crack technique as the stuff at Green's.

At Cannon, I'd add both Vertigo and Duet Direct for great crack lines. 

Agreeing with David that you should try to climb a volume of cracks and a volume of vert granite trickery. Do laps on Duet Direct and Sticky Fingers. Add Screaming Yellow Zonkers, Airation, and Crack in the Woods. There's also a number of threads on MP listing the best cracks in NH.

For vert trickery, I would throw in Camber and Future Shock. Link up a bunch of the routes on the S Butt of Whitehorse and Children's Crusade wall.

cathedral is probably your best bet, go climb as much as you can there and get used to climbing and placing gear fast and efficiently.

what's on your ticklist for the winds? I grew up in NE and have climbed extensively in the winds, more specifics might help w/ better suggestions.

If you live in Boston the answer is cathedral and the steeper parts of whitehorse. If you climb that out, go to cannon, (if you climb these out and have to go to greens, I'll be very impressed). For volume, access from MA, and only roughly 6 months to do it, don't make it too complicated.

All the classics at those two cliffs from 5.8 or so up to 5.11 will take a few months as a weekend warrior, and they won't become climbable for several more months. Slab climb and try to learn to jam indoors, then go to noConway when the ice stops falling off the cliffs. Cannon will be climbable even later, like June, or July if you want to be more confident rocks aren't still thawing and falling. 

Dope suggestions. RE: what routes I'm interested in, I am really psyched on a trip to the Hulk, which from my understanding has a good mix of vert technical wizardry and a variety of sizes of cracks. I'm still not sure about my objectives for the Winds.

I didn't realize there was such a big volume of moderate cracks out at Cathedral. Future Shock and Camber look incredible for the more slabby side of things.

I might also do some volume at Marshfield; I did some time there and it's pretty good rock, if maybe more well protected than I might find elsewhere.

EJ Flynnstones wrote:

Dope suggestions. RE: what routes I'm interested in, I am really psyched on a trip to the Hulk, which from my understanding has a good mix of vert technical wizardry and a variety of sizes of cracks. I'm still not sure about my objectives for the Winds.

I didn't realize there was such a big volume of moderate cracks out at Cathedral. Future Shock and Camber look incredible for the more slabby side of things.

I might also do some volume at Marshfield; I did some time there and it's pretty good rock, if maybe more well protected than I might find elsewhere.

Lmk if you need partner to climb granite in NH! I’m also preparing for big routes in WY/Yosemite this summer/fall.

PS: We know each other in real life haha

Direct direct and the Ghost.

Your timeline seems a little bit ambitious but can definitely be done if you've got some grit!  A couple of thoughts as someone who cut their teeth in the Northeast but has climbed a fair bit of 5.11 and up multi-pitches out west:

-You can extend the climbing season by climbing early season in CT when it's still too cold everywhere else, then Farley/Crow/Hanging mountain? as it warms up. Get your harder trad cragging out of the way early season. No such thing as bad conditions!

-It's one thing to climb 5.11 at the crag, a completely different beast to climb 5.11 8 pitches up after a 2++ hour hike with your shoes and puffy hanging from your harness. I have many partners who will happily crag 5.11 gear routes but get intimidated doing it on larger routes. I'd recommend on focusing on climbing multi-pitches rather than single pitch routes. Consider learning fix and follow if you're unfamiliar. Makes hard climbing way more fun IMO

-Most routes in the East and their pitch lengths are TINY compared to out west. Focus on linking pitches and routes. Not saying you should do this, but the Prow is only 350' and could go in 2 pitches (3-4 is much more reasonable).  Do a full length 5.11, and then run up another easier/medium route after depending on how much mojo you have.

-Maybe not on the Prow due to popularity, but on any of the other well protected harder routes out there, go ahead and get on it. Getting on stuff a little bit above your current pay grade is a great way to learn other important multi-pitch skills.  You're clearly strong so you'll probably figure it out / learning how to bail / aid climb past a section you're stumped on is another critical skill.

Good luck!

Routes to add to your list: VMC, Lab Wall, Benedictus, Vertigo, Lights in the Forest, Diedre but add in all the 5.11 variations

In addition to the sensible recommendations here to just climb as much granite as possible in NH, if you have the chance for a trip to the Adirondacks, that would be a worthy outing also. While the rock there isn't technically granite, it climbs just like granite so the skills transfer the same. And it offers some spectacular long crack pitches. The Spiders Web is the best concentration of steep pumpy cracks in the east, and would be a great visit to tune up your crack climbing. Great multipitch options in the Adirondacks also.

Jon.R wrote:

-It's one thing to climb 5.11 at the crag, a completely different beast to climb 5.11 8 pitches up after a 2++ hour hike with your shoes and puffy hanging from your harness. I have many partners who will happily crag 5.11 gear routes but get intimidated doing it on larger routes. I'd recommend on focusing on climbing multi-pitches rather than single pitch routes. Consider learning fix and follow if you're unfamiliar. Makes hard climbing way more fun IMO

-Most routes in the East and their pitch lengths are TINY compared to out west. Focus on linking pitches and routes. Not saying you should do this, but the Prow is only 350' and could go in 2 pitches (3-4 is much more reasonable).  Do a full length 5.11, and then run up another easier/medium route after depending on how much mojo you have.

Adding to this note on multipitch climbs: Contriving linkups on the shorter multipitch cliffs of the east is a great way to prepare for big days out on taller cliffs in the west. Linking up three multipitch routes in a day on Cathedral, or two in a day on Cannon, is a good simulator to start with. This will require some of the same stamina, pacing, and efficiency tactics as a long route in the Sierra.

I haven't climbed on the Hulk but have climbed elsewhere in the Sierra, and have done a fair amount in the Winds, so I'll just add a few comments. First, not all granite climbing is the same, and, particularly, Cathedral and the South Buttress of Whitehorse, are pretty different from what you'll generally find out west. Not that you won't get good experience on those climbs, just be aware that there are differences. The climbing on Cannon however, is more 'mountainous' so has more in common with those mountain areas.
In the western mountains, many of the routes tend to follow flake and corner systems, so much of the climbing involves laybacks, stemming, jamming various size cracks, often including sections of chimney climbing---often you are doing a mixture of techniques in a single pitch. So while around here, I'd suggest getting in mileage on relatively easier climbs--working on your protection and efficiency skills--especially things like belay change-overs. It is best to work out an efficient ( though, of course, safe) system--ideally a simple and straightforward one, and stick to it as much as possible ( though always taking the time to check and make sure everything is 'right' at each stance and rappel).

As for recommendations, another early season option for you based in Boston are Red Rock and the other outcrops on Cape Ann. Sure they are very short, but they are close by and offer some classic granite climbing. Often those crags are quite climbable on sunny winter days, especially if there is no snow on the ground so close to the coast ( which is often the case). 

As you noted, you should wait until later in the season, but the Cannon routes recommended above are all worthwhile---I particularly recommend Vertigo and any of the routes in the 'big wall' section. There are also a good number of worthwhile granite crags scattered throughout the Whites, beyond the obvious ones near North Conway, that offer good granite experiences. One is Owl's Head in Oliverian Notch, though I understand that it has recently experienced a significant rock fall, so should try to get current information before heading there. But perusing the North Conway and Notches guidebooks should give you plenty of ideas.

Have a great trip---and have a great time during your 'training'---many of the recommended climbs are very worthwhile goals themselves.

I’m actually based out in western mass—so less red rocks in Gloucester and more Farley trad shenanigans.

Cannon, Cannon, Cannon and Cannon. 

Western MA,!!! OK, we have granite--Chapel Ledge, Florence, etc,, but not at all similar to that out west.

One place, close by, though a bit of a pain to access, that offers some good granite climbing is Bunyan Crag in Monson. Serpent is a particularly good route, though missing bolts render it a very ( too) serious lead--worth a top-rope run.

Much of the good rock at Hanging is granite. In particular the routes at the Grotto, Murdoch Wall, and, at harder grades, the newly reopened Corps Wall, offer good practice for granite climbing and since some are multipitch offer good 'changeover' experience as well.

Farley is gneiss, as are Rose and Mormon, but all do offer opportunities for trad leading, and often offer climbing quite similar to that on granite.

Do you climb at Hadley? If so, I'm there a lot--the old guy, so come over and say 'hello'.

Mileage is the key. Linkups like Intimidation, Diedre, Recompence in a day would help for speed at easier grade level. Linking Prow, Women in Love or Lights in the Forest in a day for harder level. Crux pitch of Positive Vibrations on the Hulk for instance is like Lichen Delight grade, rest of it is fairly mellow. Doing easier link ups on Cannon, Whitney G/Moby G or Vertigo would be good for Winds. If the weather is shit in the Winds/Tetons check out the Elephants Perch in Idaho. Superb 6/8 pitch routes on perfect granite and easy approach. 

Also coming from the east altitude could be an issue and get hiking fit with a pack.

I don't have much to add other than seconding the great recommendations above, but hit me up when your trip gets closer if you're looking for partners, I'm based out of SLC and go to the winds a lot in the summer, if it works out maybe we can link up and I'll show ya around.