Historical Eldo Ice Climbs?

Eldo was looking majestic today after the snow and in the freezing temps. I’m not sure if the ice forms regularly in these spots but there were a few standouts: between Rotwand/Wind Tower and above the Kloeberdanz roof on the Redgarden Wall.

It got me wondering: historically, have any ice routes been climbed in Eldo? Obviously, I’m not advocating for or suggesting anyone scratch up Eldo nowadays…just interested in the climbing history here.

I vaguely recall 2-4 lines of ice having been climbed in Eldo.

Yes it has happened…I climbed a pillar of ice dripping off whittle wall area(down and right of the bulge area )

probably 10 years ago  

alpinist 47 wrote:

Yes it has happened…I climbed a pillar of ice dripping off whittle wall area(down and right of the bulge area )

I think this is Off the hook or nearby? 

Mous-Ka-Tears is also at Mickey Mouse wall although it's listed under Flatirons

I've seen the Kloberdanz thing too. Definitely eye-catching, but it has so far to go before it would touch down, and it gets so much sun, that I'd be surprised if it ever got climbed. Lots of weather phenomena have happened in the past 50 years of ice climbing existing in Colorado though, so maybe. If it was in Ouray, someone would put up a cool M-hard start to reach the ice. Big no-no in eldo. 

Feb 25 2023. Not after an enormously long cold/wet spell, just an average storm I think.
Edit: Actually this is different from your pic, this is in the Sidetrack area. 

Shademap also says that the gully between Wind Tower and Rotwand gets sun most of the day, although of course long cloudy periods have existed in the past. Is that an ice slab in the very middle of your picture? It's easier for a slab to become climbable than a free-standing pillar. 

Could anything exist on the north side of the canyon?

Black Walk area circa 2019

note the thin line of kill in second photo up by High noon and Pilgrim

unclimbed

Eldo circa 2015

first photo-ski eldo

the rest are a very fat Black Walk

I have others from about 2011 or so of the thing even fatter.

unclimbed

The ice over by Whittle wall and east of that were done in the early 70’s by some local youngstars. (Off the list)

Rotwand wall gully same.

I believe the Mouse ka tears ice by Mickey Mouse wall was done mid to late 70’s… same crew or Eric G.

info for historical purposes only.

Steve, I remember those ski tracks on the north-facing slopes in the canyon. Pretty cool. That's the year I did Mouse-ka-teers, which is a phenomenal route in an exotic location. 

Hard to imagine those thin ice lines in Eldo didn't get done by Duncan Ferguson 40 years (or more) ago. 

Steve Sangdahl wrote:

Eldo circa 2015

I have others from about 2011 or so of the thing even fatter.

unclimbed

Come on, if it was fatter than that, it must've been climbable!

If someone can climb Smear of Fear, someone can climb Black Walk as an ice climb! 

I saw Off the Hook yesterday. It was really quite impressive. Almost made me want to take up ice climbing. It's a bit further right of the Whittle Wall, in the vicinity of the East Side route. Unfortunately, by the time I left, most of it was on the ground. Kind of a scary day to be climbing in the canyon!

Brad, Good to hear from you. Hope all is well. Very cool you did Mouse ka tears. Must have been an amazing climb . Was it in good conditions? The ski Eldo thing was all about timing . The recipe was 4’ of snow to fall in a short period of time. There was a handful of us locals out there laying down tracks on that scree slope. Also some of the bolder members of the crew were dropping in on the steep talus lines off the Fowler trail to the road. Think either side of the Bastille. Bold.

As for Duncan F. climbing the ice formation on Black Walk , I don’t remember reading in any of Paul S. copious  notes on first ascents and events in Eldo that he kept at the Alpine school in Eldo. A lot of us bored climbers would read those over and over. I also don’t remember Paul or any of the old guard mentioning it. In my years climbing and living in Eldorado I have never heard of or seen anyone climb that formation. When it’s in , its only in for about 48 hours. It starts disintegrating rapidly as it forms on black rock that faces south. Gets sun early. Very large chunks coming down. In my opinion, it seems if someone had climbed that formation we would have heard about it. But who knows , maybe someone sent it and didn’t tell anyone. That would be bad ass. Cheers.

Ellen, Sorry if there was any confusion in my posts. I don’t think I said it was unclimbable, just that it was unclimbed in the short time it was formed in those photos. This particular formation doesn’t get that big every year and stay in. It’s kinda rare, maybe every 4 years or so.If someone has done I would love to hear about it. Anyway sounds like you’ve done Smear of Fear , that must have been an amazing experience. Cheers

I definitely haven't done smear of fear, I just think id someone's crazy enough to climb smear of fear then someone's crazy enough to climb black walk!

Hey Steve, hope everyone in your family is well. When I did Mouse-ka-teers, it was one of the most memorable climbs I've done. Steep first pitch, and then a longish second pitch where I was climbing ice with my left tool and crampon, and Eldo-quality rock with my right hand and foot. To an Eldo and ice lover such as myself, it combined two worlds of climbing that seemed dream-like. I wouldn't be surprised if it was in last week. You need a substantial snowfall and a longish period of cold weather as it faces east and gets early sun in the morning. Seems to come in every 8-10 years or so.

Ellen, if I'm not mistaken, that pic of the Smear you posted is not just anyone. Pretty sure that is Kevin Cooper, and he is one of the most experienced and accomplished mixed/ice climbers in the history of RMNP. That route they did on Mt. Johnson is possibly even wilder than the Smear in those conditions, although in a different category, and had been attempted for years by some well known and accomplished alpinists. I don't know Kevin too well, but my impression is that he mostly flies under the radar, but is one of the best climbers of this medium anywhere. 

About ten years ago, that smear on the bulge wall formed. I went over and made a proper attempt of it with friends. I climbed up to the bolt on Back in Black and then traversed left up towards Night in rock shoes. From here, I put my boots and pons on (not easy) I started pulling over the roof and gingerly tapping into the thin ice. Unfortunately, it was already sublimated and fell apart. Certainly possible doing it this way but you gotta catch it right when it forms. Maybe 12 hrs too late. The dark rock on that wall really heats up fast and delamination starts quickly.

This pitch would have been solid 5.10 WI6/+ in the conditions I had, if the ice was bonded. Def MUCH harder than the mostly less then vertical Smear of Fear. ;)