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Routes in Flatirons

Call the Copps WI3 M3 R
Copp Out, The T WI3 M4
East Face Gully aka Silk Road WI3 M5 R
East Face Left Side aka Pink Dreams WI3 M5 R
Fourth Flatiron East Face AKA The Watercourse T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b M4 R
Mous-Ka-Tears T WI4- PG13
Off The Hook T M5 R
Type: Trad, Ice, 215 ft, Grade II
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,078 total, 31/month
Shared By: Ross Swanson on Jan 22, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Location

On north side of Mickey Mouse wall in Eldorado Canyon.
N39 55.085 W105 17.022
See this track in google earth:
wikiloc.com/wikiloc/spatial…

Notes from JRoberts: Approach is via Rattlesnake Trail to RR tracks.

Description

Two short ice steps followed by a narrow dihedral tops out at a bulge after 65 meters.

Notes from JRoberts: WI5-, M4. This is the ice climb that forms on the backside of Mickey Mouse Wall above Tunnel #6. Rappel on trees to the right of the climb.

Notes from DougS: Traverse right towards two trees on level with the end of the ice for a 60m rappel to the base, we slung the trees with yellow cord and left a leaver biner (taped closed).

Protection

At least 7 screws or more if your like. A 70meter rope would be best to do it as one pitch.

Notes from JRoberts: Bring six medium length screws, two Stubbies and some small-medium cams.

Notes from DougS: Did Mous-Ka-Tears today (WI4+?). I would recommend one longer screw (19 cm?) in addition to Jack's suggestions, as there is a nice layer of mank before one of the steep steps.
Ross Swanson
Pinewood Springs
 
Ross Swanson   Pinewood Springs
 
Sorry about this, but I tried to add these key comments to the above text but could not:

Notes from JRoberts:
Mous-Ka-Tears. WI5-, M4. This is the ice climb that forms on the backside of Mickey Mouse Wall above Tunnel #6. Bring six medium length screws, two Stubbies and some small-medium cams. Rappel on trees to the right of the climb. Approach is via Rattlesnake Trail to RR tracks.

Notes from DougS:
Did Mous-Ka-Tears today (WI4+?). I would recommend one longer screw (19 cm?) in addition to Jack's suggestions, as there is a nice layer of mank before one of the steep steps.

The ice is in good condition, although one of the steep steps is a bit hollow and trying to form better. Be nice!

Traverse right towards two trees on level with the end of the ice for a 60m rappel to the base, we slung the trees with yellow cord and left a leaver biner (taped closed).

Very fun, but the new snow made the walk a bit of a chore.

Ross: Thought it was a WI4- M-nothing last Sunday 21JAN07, a 70meter rope would be best to do it as one pitch. Jan 22, 2007
Just in case anyone is interested. The ice route on the back side of Mickey Mouse Wall, Mous-Ka-Tears, was climbed today by Eric and I today. It's in really thick shape (for this climb) and may be getting thicker. It comes into the sun at first light and then goes into the shade around 1:30pm. It felt like WI5- with easy mixed to the top. The rack was four 17cm screws and two Stubby screws. A small rack of cams, small to a 2.5 Friend works to protect the upper part of the groove you can see above the second steep curtain. The first two pitches are the crux. Above there the chimney is mainly grovelling in snow but very alpine and fun for 250 feet. We descended by rappelling from the top and down the right side using trees for the four anchors. If you were to rappel the route you would want V-Threads and maybe leave a nut anchor. The approach was via the Rattlesnake trail in Eldo and then along the tracks and through two tunnels. The climb is above Tunnel number six. A nice change from the crowds in Vail. Cheers, Jack Roberts Jan 22, 2007