0 to 5.13 in 18 Months!

In case you haven't tuned into the Ground Up Podcast, we deliver climbing conversations with local legends and unsung crushers from your favorite hometown crags.

One of the most impressive progressions I've heard of in climbing, Armand La Douceur has been taking the Southeast climbing scene by storm. In this episode, we cover Armand's adventurous introduction to climbing, his process sending the crown jewel of North Carolina, The Glass Menagerie, recent exploits in the Valley, and what lies ahead for the Southeast's up and coming climbing phenom.

Catch the latest episode on Spotify: open.spotify.com/episode/55…

pfft, define "zero"

extreme skepticism intensifies 

Todd Jenkins wrote:

pfft, define "zero"

They do, very early in the episode.

As someone who has climbed with Armand a bit since he moved to CO, he’s a tank. That young mutant has a crazy innate understanding of body positioning, a rainman ability to recall beta, is strong as hell, and his baseline “try hard” and commitment levels are much higher than many folks on their best days. He actively tries to give back to the community and has done a few days out with me scrubbing, bolting, and helping rebolt. He’s also just a polite, dependable dude who I hear is also crushing it at one of the best engineering schools in the country. The most negative thing I can say about him is that for the love of god Armand you have got to cover your mouth when you cough

Anyways - he’s legit and I’d expect to see his name a lot more in the coming years

Where do we find these 0 rated routes? 

Todd Jenkins wrote:

pfft, define "zero"

I'm currently lisenting to the episodes: he seems like the real deal. I wish I was this stoked! 

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

Where do we find these 0 rated routes? 

Colorado, of course. 

I've never met Armand, but judging by his accomplishments, many of which I'm quite familiar with, he is the real deal. Refreshing to see such humble badassery in the day of ever increasing chest thumping. 

nbrown wrote:

Colorado, of course. 

I've never met Armand, but judging by his accomplishments, many of which I'm quite familiar with, he is the real deal. Refreshing to see such humble badassery in the day of ever increasing chest thumping. 

I'm not questioning Armaid's accomplishments...I'm sure he climbed 5.13 in 1.5 years, that's honestly not even that impressive to me these days. I just watched Noah Wheeler (who was virtually unheard of 6 months ago) basically do laps on a V15 while projecting ROTSW, far more impressive imo, but that's not the point. The youths are mutants these days. Where am I skeptical is where 0 grades routes end and fifth class begins. Are 0 grades in the room with us? Are they the fun we had along the way?

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

I'm not questioning Armaid's accomplishments...I'm sure he climbed 5.13 in 1.5 years, that's honestly not even that impressive to me these days. I just watched Noah Wheeler (who was virtually unheard of 6 months ago) basically do laps on a V15 while projecting ROTSW, far more impressive imo, but that's not the point. The youths are mutants these days. Where am I skeptical is where 0 grades routes end and fifth class begins. Are 0 grades in the room with us? Are they the fun we had along the way?

This may come as a shock, but despite you just having heard of him 6 months ago, Noah Wheeler was climbing competitively 15 years ago, was competing in American Bouldering Series nationals 8 years ago, and has been climbing V double digits since he first started climbing outside 4 years ago. All of this information was freely gleaned in about 30 seconds after googling his name.

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

I'm not questioning Armaid's accomplishments...I'm sure he climbed 5.13 in 1.5 years, that's honestly not even that impressive to me these days. I just watched Noah Wheeler (who was virtually unheard of 6 months ago) basically do laps on a V15 while projecting ROTSW, far more impressive imo, but that's not the point. The youths are mutants these days. Where am I skeptical is where 0 grades routes end and fifth class begins. Are 0 grades in the room with us? Are they the fun we had along the way?

Not all 5.13 is created equal. The Glass Menagerie isn't a single pitch sport route 

Tal M wrote:
This may come as a shock, but despite you just having heard of him 6 months ago, Noah Wheeler was climbing competitively 15 years ago, was competing in American Bouldering Series nationals 8 years ago, and has been climbing V double digits since he first started climbing outside 4 years ago. All of this information was freely gleaned in about 30 seconds after googling his name.

Damn, you right. Consider me shook....but the fact you needed to google this info to know anything about kiiiiiinda him proves my point (fwiw I have heard of him for a couple years now without the assistance of google). In any regard, my point in my previous post still stands and your research is irrelevant. 

Perhaps I should have reworded my previous post to say that Armaid's send of The Glass Menagerie is hella impressive, however I find someone being able to essentially run laps on a benchmark V15 more impressive for vastly different reasons. With that said, both climbers should be equally proud of their accomplishments as 99% of climbers will never come close to either. 

Emil Briggs wrote:

Not all 5.13 is created equal. The Glass Menagerie isn't a single pitch sport route

That's awesome, even better for Armaid! The dude should be super proud of his accomplishments, genuinely. Most climbers won't ever send a single pitch 5.13 even with some training...but unless the first pitch of The Glass Menagerie the elusive grade 0 I could not care less, as my quest remains to find a 0 graded climb. 

The Sports Gene by David Epstein makes for a great read for anyone interested in why humans differ so widely in their ability to perform in different athletic tasks. Epstein profiles Donald Thomas of the Bahamas, who went from never having high-jumped to being a world champion in the event in less than 2 years. There are many other captivating stories, too.

Am I the only person who enjoyed the title of the episode as a figurative nod to “zero to 60 in x seconds”?  I think it’s a catchy title. As such, it wouldn’t occur to me to take the “zero” literally.

Congrats to all the wonderful strong younger climbers out there. Congrats to all the old broken climbers still getting out and having fun.

Not Not MP Admin wrote:

Damn, you right. Consider me shook....but the fact you needed to google this info to know anything about kiiiiiinda him proves my point 

I’m not sure about that. The number of people climbing these high grades has increased so rapidly, it is no longer a given that every climber who follows climbing news would know the name of someone climbing v15. It is now more regional than national/international. 

Climbing in any of the disciplines have always had the way successful climbers with abilities far above the recognized norms. Once in awhile though you get the ultra-phenom from seemingly out of the blue, all legit pathways.

Then it seems there's a bar that requires more than mutant strength and motivation, but also a mental skillset that just goes far beyond all others.

Not listening to any podcast but this guy sounds like he has ALL the tools to be that impressive. Dammit, now I spewed too much, I gotta actually listening to this podcast lol.

edit~ I hope he's a truly cool motherfucker because that's the rarest ingredient imo.

Lena chita wrote:

I’m not sure about that. The number of people climbing these high grades has increased so rapidly, it is no longer a given that every climber who follows climbing news would know the name of someone climbing v15. It is now more regional than national/international. 

What aren’t you sure about, Lena, because you literally just summed up my entire point…you clearly did not read the posts beings replied to. 

Never underestimate the athletic abilities of a freestyle wrestler

Tim Bratten wrote:

Never underestimate the athletic abilities of a freestyle wrestler

The power and mobility they develop through wrestling usually gives them an instant advance, especially for bouldering! 

Hank Caylor wrote:

Climbing in any of the disciplines have always had the way successful climbers with abilities far above the recognized norms. Once in awhile though you get the ultra-phenom from seemingly out of the blue, all legit pathways.

Then it seems there's a bar that requires more than mutant strength and motivation, but also a mental skillset that just goes far beyond all others.

Not listening to any podcast but this guy sounds like he has ALL the tools to be that impressive. Dammit, now I spewed too much, I gotta actually listening to this podcast lol.

edit~ I hope he's a truly cool motherfucker because that's the rarest ingredient imo.

crazy to think you joined MP 3-4 years before this guy was even alive. bet some people were digitally fighting about dogs at the crag on the day he was born

Just a hunch… I don’t think the “zero” described literally translates to a route graded 0. Who knows?

Casey Fenton wrote:

crazy to think you joined MP 3-4 years before this guy was even alive. bet some people were digitally fighting about dogs at the crag on the day he was born

Not sure what you mean with anything you said here. You are right though, the year I signed onto MP is totally crazy for you to think.