Sugarloaf Obscurities

Currently wondering what the south-facing rock immediately above the Dental Wall and just west of Split Rock is. 2 missing anchors on top (one with bolt studs and no hangers, the other just bolt holes). 3 old lead bolts on the right side of the face. 

Of course other discussion about obscure routes at Sugarloaf is welcome too. 

Don't know the rock you're talking about, but Pan Dulce on the main rock is a fun outing.

Trophy Hunter 

Trophy Hunter, that's gotta be it, thanks! I'll have to look for that Sugar Plum route too. 

And Pan Dulce is definitely on the list. 

My notes from 1990/91 state that we did a 5.11 face (bolted) up hill from Flight Deck and a "FA of a 11b route down and right of Flight Deck...bolted on rappel."  I think the one down and right of Flight Deck is Sugar Plum.  

Paul Brown (or was it Don Garrett) and I also did some other obscura NW of the Fire Dept on a broken set of cliffs.  There was a "thin crack about 50' high at around 11a" we called Crack Up, an offwidth affair we put a bolt on top of and a "10c face move to 9 face/friction and easier to the top"...we called Last Trip to Tulsa.  Pretty obscure stuff and this far out it's all a bit hazy.

I was out today and climbed those routes. The green x’s are more modern button heads with Kong hangers, the red two x’s are, probably 1/4”, button heads with old thin but large hangers.  The blue x’s are the 3/8” studs. 

Off the deck it’s pretty thin and I want to say at least out of 10 range. The way green route climbed was straight up to the first red x then traverse right and then up. Climbing straight up from the first red x seems doable but much much harder than the bottom until reaching a knob hike to the top. Both routes seemed to naturally end at their respective colored tops. Climbing directly below the two 3/8 studs seemed impossible and the rock quality on this face is not great.

If the green route is Trophy Hunter then perhaps there was considerable change to the rock because 10b it is not. It’s cleaned and ready to climb but the anchor situation is still a cluster.  I thought it was a fun route tho

You’ll find Sugar Plum fairly easily on the boulder east and a hair down of midway. The bolt hangers are all different and there’s a bolted climb to its right up the arete. Jerry calls the boulder “Half Loaf” on his website. 

Nice. I was out there Sunday and checked out Sugar Plum, but decided not to go for it, partly owing to the mixed bag of bolts. Had a deja vu feeling that I've already checked that one out in the past too. 

Looks like I didn't even see some of the bolts on the Trophy Hunter boulder. Did you figure out a gear anchor right at the lip?  

Since I was TR soloing, I was able to anchor off the tree behind the boulder and sling a horn at the top for a directional. Setting up a regular TR anchor would be tough without some long webbing although I didn’t scope the gear at the top very well . For those studs, I was prepared with some hangers but took them off when I was done. 

Anyone tried pee wee hermans tree adventure?

Mtn proj says5.10 but duane says 5.11 or so?(i asked him one day at GA) Tried it once, never made it to 1st bolt as i fell out of the tree!!! Luckily i slung a branch as my 1st pro.wild! Good luck

I haven’t but that looks interesting with the tree start. I followed someone once on “Chad’s Ledge” , just around the corner from pee wees. That was fun

Shart McNealey wrote:

I haven’t but that looks interesting with the tree start. I followed someone once on “Chad’s Ledge” once, just around the corner from pee wees. That was fun

Looks wild!! Ive starred at it. For the record, the tree branch broke on me that i was standing/climbing on!! My belayer saved my ankles w mere inches to spare! Went rock climbing & fell out of a tree.. weee. Love the loaf!

GizzardJones wrote:

Looks wild!! Ive starred at it. For the record, the tree branch broke on me that i was standing/climbing on!! My belayer saved my ankles w mere inches to spare! Went rock climbing & fell out of a tree.. weee. Love the loaf!

Oof! Close one!