Sugarloaf Obscurities

Currently wondering what the south-facing rock immediately above the Dental Wall and just west of Split Rock is. 2 missing anchors on top (one with bolt studs and no hangers, the other just bolt holes). 3 old lead bolts on the right side of the face. 

Of course other discussion about obscure routes at Sugarloaf is welcome too. 

Trophy Hunter 

Trophy Hunter, that's gotta be it, thanks! I'll have to look for that Sugar Plum route too. 

And Pan Dulce is definitely on the list. 

My notes from 1990/91 state that we did a 5.11 face (bolted) up hill from Flight Deck and a "FA of a 11b route down and right of Flight Deck...bolted on rappel."  I think the one down and right of Flight Deck is Sugar Plum.  

Paul Brown (or was it Don Garrett) and I also did some other obscura NW of the Fire Dept on a broken set of cliffs.  There was a "thin crack about 50' high at around 11a" we called Crack Up, an offwidth affair we put a bolt on top of and a "10c face move to 9 face/friction and easier to the top"...we called Last Trip to Tulsa.  Pretty obscure stuff and this far out it's all a bit hazy.

Nice. I was out there Sunday and checked out Sugar Plum, but decided not to go for it, partly owing to the mixed bag of bolts. Had a deja vu feeling that I've already checked that one out in the past too. 

Looks like I didn't even see some of the bolts on the Trophy Hunter boulder. Did you figure out a gear anchor right at the lip?  

Anyone tried pee wee hermans tree adventure?

Mtn proj says5.10 but duane says 5.11 or so?(i asked him one day at GA) Tried it once, never made it to 1st bolt as i fell out of the tree!!! Luckily i slung a branch as my 1st pro.wild! Good luck

Shart McNealey wrote:

I haven’t but that looks interesting with the tree start. I followed someone once on “Chad’s Ledge” once, just around the corner from pee wees. That was fun

Looks wild!! Ive starred at it. For the record, the tree branch broke on me that i was standing/climbing on!! My belayer saved my ankles w mere inches to spare! Went rock climbing & fell out of a tree.. weee. Love the loaf!