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Are middle marks aid?

Original Post
Dr Logic · · My cozy van · Joined Oct 2024 · Points: 5

I feel like the middle mark just makes climbing too easy. Some ropes come with no middle mark, so obviously some rope manufacturers agree with me. However, a lot come with middle marks, so what's the right answer?

Matt D · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2024 · Points: 15

-500/10

Randy Vannurden · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

Rope is aid

Ben Zartman · · Little Compton, RI · Joined Apr 2024 · Points: 0

Middlemarks save lives.  It just happens that I sell single-use packets of middlemark rope dye, which will soon be on every mountainshop's counter in a handsome display box.  No more expensive and awkward pen: just an affordable, rope-safe, mess-free* packet.

*depends on user clumsiness.

Cherokee Nunes · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 0

Your logic needs aid!  

Tyler M · · SL, UT · Joined Dec 2021 · Points: 0

Middle marks are obviously aid, they’re something other than hands and feet that helps you in your climbing. 

Bill Lawry · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 1,814

A middle mark is absolutly aid.

Reduces arm effort to find the middle of the rope for raps.  Likewise saves time there. And time later when I don’t have to get out my headlamp - or worse - because I messed up in finding the middle mark for rappels.

Har har

Sep M · · Boulder, co · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

Middle marks are aid, but only if they’re in the actual middle of the rope. If you’ve lopped an end off, the middle mark is now anti-aid. It makes things more difficult and opens you up to all kinds of adventures.

Anna Brown · · New Mexico · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 6,561

No. 

Alex Fletcher · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2016 · Points: 252

I will admit this here for your judgment.

On the descent after a 4-5 pitch ice climb, after dark, I made a variation to finding the middle of a rope whose mark had faded during set up of a rappel.

It didn’t slip or anything, but let’s just say the way I was flaking it, that it could have easily been dropped leaving us stuck at the belay two pitches up.

Could I have handled the rope differently and found the middle without that possibility? Yes.

Another contributing factor to this was the availability of an open system anchor (carabiners) rather than a closed anchor (rings).

If the middle mark on the rope had been easily visible, my usual flow of multi pitch rappel setup would never have put us in that situation in the first place.

Could I have adapted to the situation better than I did? In hindsight, yes of course.

But I still make sure my middle marks are fresh after that.

I’m a big fan of the Triple Black Bars marking so it really stands out. 

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 72

Just put bright colored thread through the middle in a coupe spots. Use a blunt nose needle for the work.
Then you can move the middle mark(s) when/if you have to chop the ends. Also gives a nice tactile feedback when you hit the middle if you're running the rope through your hands.
Add as many little threads as you like, where you like.

Ben B · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2015 · Points: 0

Posting on mountain project is aid 

M A · · CA · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 22

If middle marks are aid, bi-pattern ropes are going to blow your mind. 

Marc801 C · · Sandy, Utah · Joined Feb 2014 · Points: 65
Alex Fletcher wrote:

I will admit this here for your judgment.

On the descent after a 4-5 pitch ice climb, after dark, I made a variation to finding the middle of a rope whose mark had faded during set up of a rappel.

It didn’t slip or anything, but let’s just say the way I was flaking it, that it could have easily been dropped leaving us stuck at the belay two pitches up.

Could I have handled the rope differently and found the middle without that possibility? Yes.

Another contributing factor to this was the availability of an open system anchor (carabiners) rather than a closed anchor (rings).

If the middle mark on the rope had been easily visible, my usual flow of multi pitch rappel setup would never have put us in that situation in the first place.

Could I have adapted to the situation better than I did? In hindsight, yes of course.

But I still make sure my middle marks are fresh after that.

I’m a big fan of the Triple Black Bars marking so it really stands out. 

Woosh!!!

Anna Brown · · New Mexico · Joined Mar 2015 · Points: 6,561

Thank you for posting this Alex! I had freshly marked middles on my ropes for my recent holiday trip to Cochise and it made rappelling so much easier. I'm going to follow your lead and add two more marked bands to the ropes to make it extra clear.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

General Climbing
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