Reality Bath Gets a Repeat

Saw this post on the ice climbing sub-reddit. Absolutely mental to not only repeat a route routinely described as suicidal but to do it solo. Can't help but think of John Bouchard solo FA-ing the Black Dike after it intimidated other climbers. 

Link to Balin Miller's IG story. Hopefully we'll get a trip report out of it! I've been fascinated by this route since reading Kiss or Kill and both Randy and MFT are legends in my mind so it's really cool seeing their route getting talked about again. Goes to show how far the sport has progressed both technically and in the skill of the climbers that stuff like this is possible.

This piqued my interest in a big way. Expect this kid to get some attention from what an impressive send. 

Holy smokes!!!

Isaak B wrote:

Goes to show how far the sport has progressed both technically and in the skill of the climbers that stuff like this is possible.

There was no progression as you are conflating technical skill with someone willing to face very high objective danger. Without the very high objective danger Reality Bath would have been repeated ad nauseum by many no name, non instracrap posting, non sponsored climbers. Those no name, non instracrap posting, non sponsored climbers along with many named, instracrap posting, sponsored climbers have decided the risk is not worth it.

Contrast Reality Bath with Riptide which was climbed the winter before in 1987. Riptide is arguably similar in difficultly but without the level of objective danger as Reality Bath and has seen many repeats. Finally, remember ice conditions are quite variable. What can be a thin brittle horror show can also be a fat juicy picture show. There are other climbs in VI+ range all climbed in the late 1980s early 1990s that are technically comparable. So there was no progression, just someone willing to roll the dice. 

I agree it was definitely a matter of risk tolerance for most climbers deciding not to attempt the route. Hopefully a potential trip report can share the condition of the route in more detail as well.

By technically I meant technology (my bad). You might disagree but I would argue improvements made to tool design, crampons, boots, clothes, etc… have allowed climbers to move faster in dangerous terrain, shifting the risk-window towards a greater margin of safety and enticing some high-risk tolerance climbers to attempt very dangerous objectives. Likewise, as climbing has grown more popular, more effort and research as been done regarding optimal training for climbing which has allowed climbers to move faster on routes, improving safety by decreasing the time exposed to objective danger (obviously I can’t speak to to Balin’s training regiment). I would be curious to find out how long it took him vs MFT and Randy (taking into account solo vs team speed).

I do think it’s interesting considering how IG and social media clout can entice climbers to pursue more dangerous objectives to get noticed by sponsors. From his IG it looks like Balin is already sponsored but I would assume climbing Reality Bath might entice further sponsorship.

Much respect for all involved! I used to devour everything Twight wrote, so this is pretty cool. Is Reality Bath even the same climb as it was 37 years ago? 

Bale wrote:

Much respect for all involved! I used to devour everything Twight wrote, so this is pretty cool. Is Reality Bath even the same climb as it was 37 years ago? 

Randy Rackliff posted on his IG that it looks harder than it did in the 80s, but, per the Gripped article, Balin graded it WI5+/6- versus the FA grade of WI7. Would assume warming temps have only increased serac instability.

Allen Sanderson wrote:

There was no progression as you are conflating technical skill with someone willing to face very high objective danger. Without the very high objective danger Reality Bath would have been repeated ad nauseum by many no name, non instracrap posting, non sponsored climbers. Those no name, non instracrap posting, non sponsored climbers along with many named, instracrap posting, sponsored climbers have decided the risk is not worth it.

Contrast Reality Bath with Riptide which was climbed the winter before in 1987. Riptide is arguably similar in difficultly but without the level of objective danger as Reality Bath and has seen many repeats. Finally, remember ice conditions are quite variable. What can be a thin brittle horror show can also be a fat juicy picture show. There are other climbs in VI+ range all climbed in the late 1980s early 1990s that are technically comparable. So there was no progression, just someone willing to roll the dice. 

Kinda curious, at what point did being a broke 23 y/o with less IG followers than your average cute college girl and MAYBE $2500 worth of Millet gear (counting sticker price) become a “Big name sponsored climber” ?

Regardless of objective danger, that climb is in fact a solid Canadian Rockies Wi6. And several pitches of it at that. Obviously, the objective danger of climbing under a serac required navigating highly technical ice faster than any roped up party could. Climbing this in a controlled and efficient fashion requires a ton of time spent climbing at this grade and an unfailing head game.

Go ahead and this feat as a “Roll of the dice”. This act is an admission of your own inability to accept Balin’s coupling of prodigious physical capacity, an intimate understanding of his own abilities, and the nature of high level water ice climbing in that environment.

But please carry on with your authoritative dismissiveness.

It gives us all a chance to defend climbing as an act of self expression, and remember that truly compelling climbing will always negatively affect those unwilling to accept personal shortcomings of ability and vision. 

Isaak B wrote:

I do think it’s interesting considering how IG and social media clout can entice climbers to pursue more dangerous objectives to get noticed by sponsors. From his IG it looks like Balin is already sponsored but I would assume climbing Reality Bath might entice further sponsorship.

I do not think it made much of a difference to be honest vs the days of the original first ascent. In those days, climbers like Twight etc gained notoriety after climbing an objective and writing about it in the Climbing magazine, in their coming books or other media sources. Social Media makes that process much more streamline and current, available to whoever wants to participate. If you were not on the "in" with the cool kids in the days of climbing mags, maybe your articles or other "spray" may not see daylight. Now someone like Ballin can just make a regular post, and if it gets enough attention, it will end up making news in a place like Gripped or whatever. But PEOPLE are the same. Most seek love, approval and admiration from peers, and that didn't change no matter if you are in 1920s or 2020s. To get that admiration some climbers from the past went as far as to fake their ascents, and I am sure some lie about their ascents even today.

Isaak B wrote:
I do think it’s interesting considering how IG and social media clout can entice climbers to pursue more dangerous objectives to get noticed by sponsors. From his IG it looks like Balin is already sponsored but I would assume climbing Reality Bath might entice further sponsorship.

I don't think it's fair to what Balin has worked for and accomplished to put out the idea that Reality Bath is what will entice further sponsorship. Some people might learn his name from it, sure. 

He's done significantly more than this one climb that is worthy of recognition. I'd (arguably) say that this is actually lesser than many other things he's done because of the inordinate risk he had to assume to do it. He's obviously a highly skilled technical alpinist. I hope his career is long and he is enabled to fully express that potential to good ends.

NateC wrote:

I don't think it's fair to what Balin has worked for and accomplished to put out the idea that Reality Bath is what will entice further sponsorship. Some people might learn his name from it, sure.

I wasn’t attempting to insinuate that. Allen brought up the effects Instagram/social media can have on climbers and I was agreeing that, in some cases, social media can alter a climbers perception of risk/reward. Additionally, I would argue that in today’s online climate the use of social media to advertise oneself as a climber is probably necessary if one is attempting to develop a career as a professional climber.

I do not think Balin climbed the Reality Bath because of internet clout. From reading the Gripped  article and AAC essay, he seems like a very dedicated climber who not only looks up to climbers like MFT but also wants to both test himself and push the limits of the sport. However, regardless of intent, climbing the route (and doing it solo) will attract attention/sponsors/grants. That’s not a bad thing IMO. It means the sport gets to progress as young guns explore new climbing possibilities.

Franklyn Dunbar wrote:

Kinda curious, at what point did being a broke 23 y/o with less IG followers than your average cute college girl and MAYBE $2500 worth of Millet gear (counting sticker price) become a “Big name sponsored climber” ?

Regardless of objective danger, that climb is in fact a solid Canadian Rockies Wi6. And several pitches of it at that. Obviously, the objective danger of climbing under a serac required navigating highly technical ice faster than any roped up party could. Climbing this in a controlled and efficient fashion requires a ton of time spent climbing at this grade and an unfailing head game.

Go ahead and this feat as a “Roll of the dice”. This act is an admission of your own inability to accept Balin’s coupling of prodigious physical capacity, an intimate understanding of his own abilities, and the nature of high level water ice climbing in that environment.

But please carry on with your authoritative dismissiveness.

It gives us all a chance to defend climbing as an act of self expression, and remember that truly compelling climbing will always negatively affect those unwilling to accept personal shortcomings of ability and vision. 

You grossly misinterpreted much of my post while while making multiple incorrect assumptions. As Isaak noted he was referring to gear rather than ability. Which I would agree, gear has progressed. Probably one of the biggest progression is screws. Of course, if one is soloing screws are, in general moot. 

Some corrections:

• I did not said anything about "big named sponsored climbers" only "named" and " sponsored climbers." More over, the real point was to poke at the self aggrandizing online social media of today. 
• I did not say Reality Bath was not a solid Canadian Rockies WI6. I said Riptide which is solid Canadian Rockies WI6 is arguably similar in difficultly as Reality Bath.
• Calling it “Roll of the dice” is not an act of admission. You no know nothing about my abilities or lack there of.
• Nothing in my post was dismissiveness. It was difference of interpretation of progression. Which as noted, Isaak clarified and such we agree.

There is nothing truly compelling about climbing under seracs. It is a roll of the dice. I have done it multiple times. In one case I (and my partner) rolled snake eyes. We survived. Two friends, in two separate incidences did not.

Finally, the real act of self expression is being done by climbers doing routes that are sometimes hard as hell and sometime not but you will never know about it cause they are not posting on social media.

The screws are so good now that even when soloing they make a big difference. Most folks soloing big Ice wear a harness with a few screws on it and have an ultra light 6mm tag in their pack. Knowing how good the screws are and how possible it is to bail from many situations that would have probably killed you in 1983 certainly must play a part in how far these folks have progressed. 

Allen Sanderson wrote:

Finally, the real act of self expression is being done by climbers doing routes that are sometimes hard as hell and sometime not but you will never know about it cause they are not posting on social media.

I was agreement with your post until you said this. We cannot create rules out of our own biases about what is or is not self-expression. As soon as we do, we inherently limit the expression of self that we seek to qualify. 

It's ok to have a distaste for social media, which appears to be your stance. I doubt you even saw his posts to know if they were self-aggrandizing. I would argue that unless one knew what they were seeing in his instagram stories yesterday...there was actually very little context. You had to know to know. 

A question for you Allen... if he had said nothing on social media but waxed poetic in the American Alpine Journal about his ascent, as so many are wont to do, would you still call it self-aggrandizing? 

NateC wrote:

I was agreement with your post until you said this. We cannot create rules out of our own biases about what is or is not self-expression. As soon as we do, we inherently limit the expression of self that we seek to qualify. 

It's ok to have a distaste for social media, which appears to be your stance. I doubt you even saw his posts to know if they were self-aggrandizing. I would argue that unless one knew what they were seeing in his instagram stories yesterday...there was actually very little context. You had to know to know. 

A question for you Allen... if he had said nothing on social media but wrote a waxed poetic in the American Alpine Journal about his ascent, as so many are wont to do, would you still call it self-aggrandizing?

Fair point Nate. Yes, I have distaste for social media which by its very nature is self-aggrandizing. So take that as a generalization of the medium rather than specific to the ascent of topic. 

 As for writing for the AAJ or similar, good question. Some might say waxing poetically about an ascent could be consider self-aggrandizing.

Allen Sanderson wrote:

 As for writing for the AAJ or similar, good question. Some might say waxing poetically about an ascent could be consider self-aggrandizing.

And perhaps it is self-aggrandizing. I would argue though that everyone "sprays" somewhere, and each of us finds the given style palatable or not in our own way. 

If self expression is not observed in some way, does it exist at all? At its root, much of this comes down to addressing some of the basics of human needs that Vitaliy(SirToby) pointed out above. I'm not suggesting that you have to accept all forms as your own, or enjoy them from others, but I think writing so harshly as you have is a bit unnecessary. Climbing, particularly alpinism, needs less arbitrary admonishment of one another, and more encouragement for those who are truly seeking to find what's possible. 

Balin is out there pushing and climbing, hard. An argument can be made that it's perhaps too hard, and those close to him should try to reel him in a little and preserve his longevity, but that's his to choose and far from mine to judge. He's the furthest thing from a "social media influencer." He appears to take on social media with great sarcasm and an air of irreverence that climbing has been missing since perhaps the Stonemasters, and which alpinism has perhaps never had. His posts rarely "spray" about accomplishments. 

He's much more the climber that your generation of climbers should admire, than to disrespect for using the tools of societal communication that have now existed since before he was born. 

And none of this discussion has to do with his ascent of The Reality Bath, to which I largely agree with the points you've made. The ascent is undeniably historic in its own right, though. In one sweeping arc of the brush, Balin has demystified the hyperbole put forth by Twight that stood for so many years...

Allen Sanderson wrote:

You grossly misinterpreted much of my post while while making multiple incorrect assumptions. As Isaak noted he was referring to gear rather than ability. Which I would agree, gear has progressed. Probably one of the biggest progression is screws. Of course, if one is soloing screws are, in general moot. 

Some corrections:

• I did not said anything about "big named sponsored climbers" only "named" and " sponsored climbers." More over, the real point was to poke at the self aggrandizing online social media of today. 
• I did not say Reality Bath was not a solid Canadian Rockies WI6. I said Riptide which is solid Canadian Rockies WI6 is arguably similar in difficultly as Reality Bath.
• Calling it “Roll of the dice” is not an act of admission. You no know nothing about my abilities or lack there of.
• Nothing in my post was dismissiveness. It was difference of interpretation of progression. Which as noted, Isaak clarified and such we agree.

There is nothing truly compelling about climbing under seracs. It is a roll of the dice. I have done it multiple times. In one case I (and my partner) rolled snake eyes. We survived. Two friends, in two separate incidences did not.

Finally, the real act of self expression is being done by climbers doing routes that are sometimes hard as hell and sometime not but you will never know about it cause they are not posting on social media.

My point here is that climbing under a serac, with lots of glitter, is in fact a sign of progression.

Some person climbs “Riptide” while roped up and with a partner. Good for them. In that setting there are no genuine time constraints. You have the luxury of swapping leads, and the obvious margin of safety that is protecting the route with gear. Balin’s feat is being celebrated because he has progressed his climbing to the point where he can:

Climb this route fast enough to minimize the time exposed to serac fall

“Riptide”, nor any other climbs that I’m aware of have this time constraint. You can climb most high level water ice climbs in the Rockies with the luxury of taking your time, while protecting it with a partner. “Reality Bath” is one of the few climbs where there are direct consequences to climbing the route with less than the utmost speed and efficiency.

As far as I’m concerned, climbing multiple pitches of WI6 very efficiently while soloing is demonstrating a level of technical competence that is far above that of simply making it up and down a route of similar grade.

You say there is nothing “Truly compelling about climbing under seracs”. You have also virtue signaled that opting out of social media is a sign of purity and self expression.

You seem to have found Ballin’s climb and the epitome of climbing social media that is mountain project compelling enough to take the energy to self express yourself as a player hater 

Grivel 90 Degree and Pulsar tools from the 80s vs Petzl Ergo tools no comparison the new gear is immeasurably better plus I don’t think this climb has formed reliably d/t climate & hydrology.

Rob Cotter wrote:

Grivel 90 Degree and Pulsar tools from the 80s vs Petzl Ergo tools no comparison the new gear is immeasurably better plus I don’t think this climb has formed reliably d/t climate & hydrology.

Funny you should mention Pulsars, Balin climbs probably harder than any of us on those already. But agreed ergos are cheating ;) 

Allen Sanderson wrote:

Fair point Nate. Yes, I have distaste for social media which by its very nature is self-aggrandizing. So take that as a generalization of the medium rather than specific to the ascent of topic. 

 As for writing for the AAJ or similar, good question. Some might say waxing poetically about an ascent could be consider self-aggrandizing.

And yet you seem to live on these forums always all too willing to expound on your tremendous experience...what's the difference?

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/200359014/thread-drift-beef-argue-here-instead-maybe