New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #33

Not sure if anyone here lives in LA? Good luck to anyone with family or friends there. Very worrying, with the fires. 

GO

John Gill wrote:

Around the summer of 1967 my wife and small child and I visited the COR for several days, camping in our VW bus. I don't recall any campgrounds, but where we stayed there was something I had not witnessed before: a nocturnal stream - water flowed only well after dark. I roamed around and explored but could find no evidence of previous climbing. The quality of the rock was a little disappointing, as I had gotten used to Vedauwoo and the beautiful quartzite of the Snowy Range. But I could be misremembering. I don't think I ever returned.

I'd say that COR has some of the best quality granite I have ever climbed!  Not slick like some slabs in LCC or even Yosemite or too course like Jtree or other desert granite. The cracks are even comfortable for jamming,  I can see that it could have been a little dirty at that time.

Guy, you were born to speak words of inspiration.   As I continue my journey in this new/old place and in a sport that is still very new to me you give it continuity.  I’m jealous that you all get to meet up at COR again but so happy for you as well. I wish I could be there. Maybe next year.  I have a feeling that this will be your best meet up ever and I hope you remember to take lots of pictures!

So here on the homefront, I knew I needed something… I just didn’t know what.  I took a look at how long I’ve been climbing and the feeling that without an intervention I have hit my limit of hardness. I’m also tired of increasingly painful knees, even though x-rays and MRI say they are fine. I have visited a great chiropractor, acupuncturist, physical therapist and MD.

After Kris’ wife, Barb, recommended The Barbell Prescription I ordered the book and haven’t been able to put it down. I never saw myself lifting weights. After reading the thorough review of the main exercise, which is the Squat, I thought “I can’t do that! I can barely get up off the toilet!” But I am starting to understand that when you put an old person on the rock in a deconditioned state things fall apart.  As strong as I may be it’s not in the overall way I should have been all along. I don’t need hang boarding at this point.  

But I did see that the squat and the deadlift have to be performed precisely or they can maim you.   So I purchased the companion instruction book and also contacted the closest gym in Costa Mesa where this is specifically trained. I talked with Brad on the phone and he asked to see pictures of my gym so he could decide if we have the right equipment there. I sent him some pictures and also a few Climbing pictures so he would have some idea of who he’s working with. I will be driving out to Costa Mesa to meet with Brad in short order. It appears our local five star gym has all the goods.

I really paid attention when Brad said “you don’thave a knee problem. You have under-used glutes and hamstrings.“ I feel he nailed it.

I don’t want to be a superhero, except on the rock – – and that really means just to be my best self. With all the introspection I can do I just don’t feel I’ve done my best Climbing yet.  

Pictures motivate me a lot. Nature motivates me. I believe Bob took this picture and I don’t know why this isn’t the most favored route in the park, but I guess beauty is in the eye of the beholder.  I really struggled on this route ( Trix), but I still think with a little more technique and strength I can make it to the top. Bob says I can’t. Well, I can at least try.

Isn’t she a beauty? (The rock).   

Guy… I think Tony is rapidly improving. He’s been on his feet and walking around the house a bit . I wouldn’t have known how much of a team effort this is. He looks at me throughout the day to tell him he’s doing really good. He’s making progress. I served him up a plate of spaghetti as you recommended.    Whatever my fantasies are of being a stronger and a better climber, he has his own hopes for his future. I don’t think he wants to run the four minute mile. He just wants his life back. 

John Gill wrote:

Around the summer of 1967 my wife and small child and I visited the COR for several days, camping in our VW bus. I don't recall any campgrounds, but where we stayed there was something I had not witnessed before: a nocturnal stream - water flowed only well after dark. I roamed around and explored but could find no evidence of previous climbing. The quality of the rock was a little disappointing, as I had gotten used to Vedauwoo and the beautiful quartzite of the Snowy Range. But I could be misremembering. I don't think I ever returned.

John, about that time Jeff and Greg Lowe had partaken of the forbidden fruit that was called Yosemite. They were the ones I believe were the first ambassadors of the quality of COR climbing.

And of course the word had got out to some climbers in Idaho.

John Gill wrote:

Around the summer of 1967 my wife and small child and I visited the COR for several days, camping in our VW bus. I don't recall any campgrounds, but where we stayed there was something I had not witnessed before: a nocturnal stream - water flowed only well after dark. I roamed around and explored but could find no evidence of previous climbing. The quality of the rock was a little disappointing, as I had gotten used to Vedauwoo and the beautiful quartzite of the Snowy Range. But I could be misremembering. I don't think I ever returned.

Interesting, I guess that beauty, or rock quality in this case, is in the eye of the beholder, as I think that COR rock is, overall, much better quality and more fun to climb than Vedauwoo or the SD Needles. However, there are definitely some areas of lower quality, grainy rock, especially in the lower parts of the area and at the bases of some of the formations and, though I'm not a boulderer, overall COR doesn't seem to offer the best bouldering opportunities.

Can we have Baffin Island too?

It's part of Canada, eh. No worries then, great again soon!

And you don't need permission, just grab...

philip bone wrote:

Can we have Baffin Island too?

Not needed.  What is needed are the Monashee and Selkirk ranges in British Columbia and the St. Elias Range in the Yukon.  Just need to find a way to keep everyone under 50 out.

Last few days have been a disaster. On Monday, my husband’s gym lock was cut off and his cell phone, wallet with ALL our credit cards, debit card, etc, and a brand new watch were taken. Through the grace of God, they did not search through his pants pocket and take his car keys. He was a helpless puddle of shock and I spent the whole day triaging replacements. Within 2 hrs, $10k of fraud went through, $10k we were able to stop because the alerts came to my phone and not his.

Barely slept that night and was able to get a spot at CoR overlapping with Tim. I prefer later in the month, but We both needed an earlier schedule.

This photo is from my second trip to CoR in 1991. It is noteworthy as irrefutable proof that at one time, I camped!  I still have those purple fuzzy pants but the Patagonia jacket I donated to CMac IIRC, for a charity auction! Someone wanted it!

Climb list from that trip - it was a great trip! 

Then of course we had the most horrific winds yesterday we have ever experience. Power is out, internet is out. Lots of landscape damage, including one of my favorite cacti.

Fortunately no fires near us. It’s heartbreaking the devastation that going on West of us. 

Brandt Allen wrote:

Acuity looks quite appealing from below, but turned out to be rather uneventful climbing. The other side of Hitman Rock has a collection of nice crack climbs. The Bruiser stands out to me as one of the better ones.

Definitely! The Bruiser was really good. Seem to recall The Hit and Enforcer, The as being pretty good, albeit short.

Take care in the area on the NW side... there was reported rockfall to the right of your dihedral back a few years... 

Todd Berlier wrote:

Phylp!

That list brings back some great memories. At some point, pretty sure I've done 90% of those routes! All told I think maybe 4 or 5 trips to the city.

I've never kept a list of what routes and problems I've done. 

Ditto that...great list!  I have, more or less, kept track since '85.  Regret not writing down more detail especially who my partners were.  Old photo's help for sure but I need a slide scanner (ha ha).  Spent an immense amount of time at the City.  Good times.

The tick list thing here on the 'proj is a handy database of routes for me.  Most of my data is in there...and...I can download the file and save it.  Pretty nifty.  

Fun to pull up the list of COR classics and see if I've done any of them...here's a chunk of unbroken "ticks" that's fun to ponder...

Not too hard to tell which ones I liked...!  Or the grade range I've preferred...

Hope to see you guys in the City this year....cheers!

phylp phylp wrote:

Last few days have been a disaster. On Monday, my husband’s gym lock was cut off and his cell phone, wallet with ALL our credit cards, debit card, etc, and a brand new watch were taken. Through the grace of God, they did not search through his pants pocket and take his car keys. He was a helpless puddle of shock and I spent the whole day triaging replacements. Within 2 hrs, $10k of fraud went through, $10k we were able to stop because the alerts came to my phone and not his.

That sucks. Sorry to hear. Somewhat depressing to hear on the news this morning that the authorities have apprehended several looters attempting to take advantage of the evac'd neighborhoods in the LA fire zone.

Greg Opland wrote:

That sucks. Sorry to hear. Somewhat depressing to hear on the news this morning that the authorities have apprehended several looters attempting to take advantage of the evac'd neighborhoods in the LA fire zone.

Thanks. The sad part about it is that I heard a report about 6 months ago on Nextdoor of this exact thing happening at my gym, and since then I only leave gym bag in locker. I carry a fanny pack with my cell phone, keys, and ID/ debit card. I leave everything else at home. But I’m a paranoid type and never imagined it would happen again, so even tho I told my husband about the story, I didn’t make a big deal about it and I’m sure it went in one ear and out the other. Of course now he’s kicking himself.

That sucks about the looters. So many scumbags out there these days.

MM, KM, Alan, I don't think I got around enough at COR on that one trip to appreciate the quality of the rock. I did a little free solo explorations higher up and the rock was better. Where I camped it seemed grainy and the bouldering wasn't appealing, but my recollections may not be correct. 

I am curious if anyone here climbed in the Snowy Range in Wyoming. While living in Ft Collins I would drive up during good weather and scramble on a favorite buttress or two, along with some bouldering. Lovely rock, like climbing on sculpture.  

phylp phylp wrote:

Last few days have been a disaster. On Monday, my husband’s gym lock was cut off and his cell phone, wallet with ALL our credit cards, debit card, etc, and a brand new watch were taken. Through the grace of God, they did not search through his pants pocket and take his car keys. He was a helpless puddle of shock and I spent the whole day triaging replacements. Within 2 hrs, $10k of fraud went through, $10k we were able to stop because the alerts came to my phone and not his.

Barely slept that night and was able to get a spot at CoR overlapping with Tim. I prefer later in the month, but We both needed an earlier schedule.

This photo is from my second trip to CoR in 1991. It is noteworthy as irrefutable proof that at one time, I camped!  I still have those purple fuzzy pants but the Patagonia jacket I donated to CMac IIRC, for a charity auction! Someone wanted it!

Climb list from that trip - it was a great trip! 

Wow, that's an impressive list.    Sorry to hear about your husbands gym theft.  Wonder how the perps got a bolt cutter into the gym.   Another example of why I live in a small town.

Yay for Tony! So Sorry to hear about Phylips robbery. they suck. 

COR rock quality is superb...  as is the quality of the Black hills but very different. 

Idaho Bob wrote:

Wow, that's an impressive list.    Sorry to hear about your husbands gym theft.  Wonder how the perps got a bolt cutter into the gym.   Another example of why I live in a small town.

I was wondering the same thing.  Maybe posing as a gym employee cutting off abandoned locks (I know our gym has to do this occasionally) ?  Or maybe a 24-hour facility late at night ?

Phylp - Sorry to hear about your awful week.

John Gill wrote:

MM, KM, Alan, I don't think I got around enough at COR on that one trip to appreciate the quality of the rock. I did a little free solo explorations higher up and the rock was better. Where I camped it seemed grainy and the bouldering wasn't appealing, but my recollections may not be correct. 

I am curious if anyone here climbed in the Snowy Range in Wyoming. While living in Ft Collins I would drive up during good weather and scramble on a favorite buttress or two, along with some bouldering. Lovely rock, like climbing on sculpture.  

John, I climbed in the Snowy Range two times,the first with rgold and his then girlfriend, Barbara. Both times I did fairly easy routes on a formation that was known as the Medicine Bow Diamond. My recollection is that it was a very pleasant, pretty much climb anywhere at the same grade slabby face.
Phyl--very sorry about the theft from your husband--really sucks. On a happier subject, that is indeed a great COR tick list for several visits, let alone for one!!!