Mountain Project Logo

Photos of BEAUTIFUL HARDWARE pt2

Austin Donisan · · San Mateo, CA · Joined May 2014 · Points: 720
Alex Fischerwrote:

In the Jemez Mountains, New Mexico. These are 1/2" hand drilled bolts. I like how the diagonal offset works here.

Is that anchor stance no hands? Otherwise getting to a double-gate carabiner and a non-captive oval could be unpleasant.

Jabroni McChufferson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2024 · Points: 0
Drew Neviuswrote:

Mussy hooks on Raumer Alien hangers and 3/8 x 3.5” SS powerbolts

That rope though! Keepin it real in OK I see 

C Williams · · Sketchy, Blackvanistan · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 1,815
Chris Stockingwrote:

Love that dual-gate biner on the right. What make/model is it? 

Grivel made them for a few years, I think they have been discontinued.

Drew Nevius · · Tulsa, OK · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 2,643
Jabroni McChuffersonwrote:

That rope though! Keepin it real in OK I see 

Ha! A friend gave me that rasta rope - I’ve actually never partaken , but I’m probably the outlier in the climbing community

Drew Nevius · · Tulsa, OK · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 2,643
Camdon Kaywrote:

Did you camouflage those yourself, Drew? That is some nice looking paint spatter

I did! Thank you! Looks like I primarily used the khaki Rustoleum and these other two. Just push the button down only far enough for it to start spitting to get the splatter effect.

Definitely have a paper towel handy to wipe the nozzle afterward because splattering method will make it drip and clog up the nozzle if you let it dry up afterward without wiping

Camdon Kay · · Idaho · Joined Mar 2021 · Points: 3,906

That is good info! I’ve been flicking paint with a bristle brush, which isn’t the best method 

Drew Nevius · · Tulsa, OK · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 2,643

Every once in a while splattering from a can  causes too much drip at the nozzle and then the top piece of a can gets gummed up after it dries and I end up not being able to use the whole can. I haven’t tried flicking from a brush yet

Heliodor Jalba · · San Juan metro area Puerto… · Joined Apr 2018 · Points: 8,087

There's a lot of talk in this thread from at least two knowledgeable industry people making it quite clear that painting your hardware is bad for longevity:

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/message/110797272

Nathan P · · Front Ranger, CO · Joined Nov 2013 · Points: 446
Heliodor Jalbawrote:

There's a lot of talk in this thread from at least two knowledgeable industry people making it quite clear that painting your hardware is bad for longevity:

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/message/110797272

This is a good reference thread.

The conclusion I’ve come to is that Stainless is best kept unpainted, but if camouflage is prudent (which is the case often on our public lands) one should not remove the pacified outer layer in an attempt to gain better paint adherence. As long as you find a paint that sticks (rustoleum, etc.) you’re fine.

Anecdotally I’ve seen painted, stainless hangers show no signs of surface corrosion for 15+ years post installation

Alex Fischer · · Albuquerque, NM · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 864
Austin Donisanwrote:

Is that anchor stance no hands? Otherwise getting to a double-gate carabiner and a non-captive oval could be unpleasant.

Yes, it's a hands-free stance. I put in the anchor on lead.

Drew Nevius · · Tulsa, OK · Joined Jun 2012 · Points: 2,643
Heliodor Jalbawrote:

There's a lot of talk in this thread from at least two knowledgeable industry people making it quite clear that painting your hardware is bad for longevity:

https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/message/110797272

I remember seeing that - thanks for sharing for others’ awareness.

However, in some areas (like Quartz Mtn where I used these) the camouflaging of hardware is a land manager requirement even if it does reduce the longevity somewhat

Alex Fletcher · · Las Vegas · Joined May 2016 · Points: 252

Warning: it’s been 15 posts since the last PHOTO of Beautiful Hardware. More pictures, less chatter! :P

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 77


fin.
Gee Monet · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,729
Alex Fletcherwrote:

Warning: it’s been 15 posts since the last PHOTO of Beautiful Hardware. More pictures, less chatter! :P

Not a beautiful anchor imo. Messy glue job, different sized bolts (I prefer the left bolt for anchors for the bigger eye, right bolt for pro bolt with smaller eye), not enough clip in points to build an anchor, and poor replaceability when the hoards wear out the rams horns in 6 months. What crag/route is this? There's a new crag above Civ that has glue all over the place and looks terrible.

Tal M · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 4,720

Old pic but worthy nonetheless, I try not to run it out if I’m using this camo. Basically impossible to see if you’re a few yards back from the wall, sometimes even if you know what you’re looking for!

Alex Morano · · Colorado · Joined Jun 2017 · Points: 1,422
Gee Monetwrote:

Not a beautiful anchor imo. Messy glue job, different sized bolts (I prefer the left bolt for anchors for the bigger eye, right bolt for pro bolt with smaller eye), not enough clip in points to build an anchor, and poor replaceability when the hoards wear out the rams horns in 6 months. What crag/route is this? There's a new crag above Civ that has glue all over the place and looks terrible.

Wow… maybe just don’t comment next time.  I would be more than happy to clip those bolts. also shouldn’t the excess glue be helpful if the sandstone erodes? 

Here’s another one.  I replaced the left bolt because it was an another developer‘s wedge anchor that was spinning due to being in the small flake. You can kinda see the right bolt is through the same flake..  The right bolt tightened back up and is embedded deeper into the larger matrix behind the flake. [[]]

Peter Thomas · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 324
Alex Moranowrote:

Wow… maybe just don’t comment next time.  I would be more than happy to clip those bolts. also shouldn’t the excess glue be helpful if the sandstone erodes? 

The comment was a little harsh, but certainly not wrong. I agree that the excess glue is unsightly. We should take pride in doing good work and leaving anchors as clean as possible. When people leave a mess or a lot of glue, it makes me wonder how well the bolt was placed, and if other shortcuts were taken. The excess glue doesn’t add any value, and detracts from the anchor. 




Jabroni McChufferson · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2024 · Points: 0
Peter Thomaswrote:

The comment was a little harsh, but certainly not wrong. I agree that the excess glue is unsightly. We should take pride in doing good work and leaving anchors as clean as possible. When people leave a mess or a lot of glue, it makes me wonder how well the bolt was placed, and if other shortcuts were taken. The excess glue doesn’t add any value, and detracts from the anchor.




It’s worth noting how you notch your placements and this visually look much more clean. Most placements would looks cleaner if done that way! Very nice

Mr Rogers · · Pollock Pines and Bay area CA · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 77
Gee Monetwrote:

Not a beautiful anchor imo. Messy glue job, different sized bolts (I prefer the left bolt for anchors for the bigger eye, right bolt for pro bolt with smaller eye), not enough clip in points to build an anchor, and poor replaceability when the hoards wear out the rams horns in 6 months. What crag/route is this? There's a new crag above Civ that has glue all over the place and looks terrible.

Tell us how you really feel.
Add a example of an install that you did that's better to show this heathen what for!

Seriously though..... Cosmetically sure, the glue is not great. But both those glue ins are exponentially stronger than anything climbers can throw at them, and sometimes, you just have the gear you have. other than the glue, that's a perfectly fine anchor.

Not enough clip in points? Clip the basket of the horns brother, or under the horns. It's not complicated.

Now, the rams horns can easily be replaced....6 months is a laughably hyperbolic time frame for them to need replacement.

Chase Webb · · Fayetteville, AR · Joined Apr 2014 · Points: 1,443

Here is an anchor upgrade from a few years ago.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
Post a Reply to "Photos of BEAUTIFUL HARDWARE pt2"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.