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New and Experienced Climbers over 50 #32
Nick Goldsmith wrote: There, fixed it. On another note, I came from a mountaineering mentality as well starting at age 8, leader must not fall. That’s why sport climbing had never really appealed to me. Gym climbing with bolts placed closely together is much safer, but can still lead to injuries especially if climber and belayer collide. But for the most part, don’t fall before the third clip and you’re generally okay. |
dragons wrote: Thanks, still a gauntlet of things to go through… |
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woke up with throat and lung infection. tested negative but my kit is two years expired.. The control did work... |
Li Hu wrote: the most common way to do it is 5.10a which is what I remembered, I now remember there was a harder direct version that avoided an aid move. Fun fact- the famous polygamous Mormon Warren Jeffs owned a compound at the mouth of Bells Canyon and the boys (his boys)that he didn't exile were frequently up in the canyon hunting. |
Alan Rubin wrote: Ditto. Although I was on my way to/from "Rocket Center" WV to the Red.  When I saw it (Haystack Block), still had bolts. Neat area and...American grit! Edit after looking at my notes. Solo'd the Standard Route (5.2r/x) and climbed Needle on the Haystack 5.10a/b and Rebolting Development 5.10c. Hmm. I think it used to have a page on the 'proj but likely an admin removed it due to the closure. Good routes I recall. Geez...over 20 years ago now. |
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Yep, Brian. That's it--Haystack Block, and those were the routes we were heading for--though unfortunately a few years too late!!! It is a neat area---literally an exit off the Interstate directly en route from New England towards the New and Red. However, I brought a British friend---who lived literally at the rim of the Moors where many of the classic gritstone edges ( Curbar, Froggat, Stanage) are located. He was adamant that Coopers was NOT gritstone!!!!! Very protective of their 'national treasure' , those Brits!!!! |
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I play a few. Simple Twist of fate and Blind Willie McTell the only ones I play regularly at the moment but there have been quite few over the years.. Watchtower, Knocking on heavens door, tangled up in blue, dont think twice, etc.. |
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Too all of you Gunks climbers out there, check this video out on Rich Romano. He was a prolific climber in the Gunks and Millbrook areas. He put up a lot of FA in the 10s & 11s all Trad climbing with only stoppers and a 1 inch webbing swami belt.. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-Sv_VVM71fo John |
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History every child should know.  I had a wonderful morning out roaming yesterday. I’m sure there must be a path leading to saddle rocks, but I just bumbled through the desert. I spent a couple of hours taking it all in without a guidebook. I saw about 100 things I would like to climb, but now I will have to sit in front of a computer and sort it all out. There is a crack to the left of silver spur that looks like it has possibilities. 
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Mixed reviews on the sauna cold plunge for a chest cold.. certainly not want to do it with a fever. I feel like shit. |
Nick Goldsmith wrote: Sorry to hear this, Nick. I hope you're better in the new year. |
Nick Goldsmith wrote: Chicken soup. Hope you're feeling better soon. |
Oldtradguy wrote: Thank you for posting that, John. Much respect to Rich Romano! Excellent video. |
Nick Goldsmith wrote: Forget the chicken soup….. I prescribe a ham sammich washed down with ayahuasca… ed “take two and call me in the morning….” e  Ps. Get better… and I’m glad Tony is doing better. |
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I will say that my vision quest ridge hike this fall cumulated in me beating Isa at scrabble for the first time in over a year and we have been about 50 50 since that fun guy induced event. |
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Lori —- go to the “crummy” gym in town. Bring whatever germ killing spray you think you need. Hopefully Tony can join you in a few months. Maybe get Ilg’s book- old but simple- “The Outdoor Athlete” …. Barbara is so advanced and lifts TONS—- they had to have a special floor made, something like 24 inches thick with re-bar! The 450lb bar she pumps is the definition of scary!!!! Nick… good luck kicking your cold. Use the sauna, skip the ice bath. Substitute a few shots of good Scotch. Get about 24 hrs rest in a toasty bed repeat…. Oh yeah, Real home made Chicken soup works… use a whole fresh Chicken- complete with the feet and everything. Lu … good luck living working in the Bay Area. Yosemite is close by - do go there and experience getting up hi. Right Now it’s the dead of winter here in Moorpark… 40 degrees F at 8 am. I’m freezing- for real. New Year’s Day climbing tomorrow- the tradition continues. Happy New Years to all. Looking forward to 2025 |
Oldtradguy wrote: Romano was indeed prolific. He was also among that unsung coterie of climbers who were, in their day, the best in the country but few if anyone knew of them, often because their feats, no matter how impressive, were off the beaten track and they had no interest in publicity. Pete Cleveland is another example. |
Guy Keesee wrote: I was just there today. It's spotless! Guy - you say use free weights, not machines. I've heard this before, but how can I do pull-down or push-down exercises? |
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Nick, not medical advice, but do you take D3? I take 5,000 IU every day and have not had the slightest cold in over a year. I have had two very minor colds and no COVID in five years. Before I started taking D3 I would get sick multiple tines per year, and every year pretty bad in November (when the sunshine is gone). I know, N=1 but still… |
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Ward. I eat handfuls of vitamin c but haven't been able to be consistent with the d. Probably because it doesn't taste yummy like the chewables. I think This is the first time I have been sick since I moved up here.. ?? When I do get sick I get hammered. |
