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Best Trad Climbing in Joshua Tree

Nathaniel Johnstone · · Portland · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 15
Gary Thomas wrote:

It's good that you are motivated and want to challenge yourself, but I would reign in your expectations and objectives a bit. Based on your tick list, the list posted by phylp phylp will provide plenty of challenges for you. Redpointing one 11a doesn't make you an 11a climber and climbing some trad 5.8's doesn't really prepare you for 5.10's especially at Joshua Tree. You'll get to the 5.10's soon enough, just don't rush it. Enjoy your trip. Let us know how it went.

Yeah true, I physically feel ready but mentally I lack some confidece so ill try a bunch on the list and see how im feeling. I also havent really had the chance to try harder stuff and I have been praticing my placement alot so im amped up to atleast give some well protected routes a try.

Patsy · · Merced · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 0

The orphan (5.9)

Robert Hiett · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2023 · Points: 0
Patsy wrote:

The orphan (5.9)

That's just mean haha 

Nathaniel Johnstone · · Portland · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 15

Thank you all for the beta and suggestions! As all of you can tell new at this so any info is very appriciated! Also, thanks to all who have replied encouraging a more level and humble mindset going out there (I definitly need it lol). Ill write up a trip summary when im done and let you all know how it went!

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,093

the thin wall is probably a good bet.  there is a good selection of routes in the general range you are looking for, and most of them are well protected and fairl straight forward.  a few other easy 10's that would be good first candidates (based on having pretty good, straight forward protection) - the exorcist, tax man, light sabre, apparition, poodles are people too (can avoid sketchy upper middle stand-up move by sneaking to the right), tossed green, right baskerville crack)

if you are ok with a slight runout off the deck, then bird of fire would be a good one.  if you are familiary with rope shenanigans rubicon could also be good.  both of these are fairly consistent climbing and don't have a single ass-kicking type of crux. 

ZT G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2020 · Points: 50

Lost horse wall is a place I enjoy around those grades


the swift

Roans way

Dappled mare 

Bird on a wire 

Patsy · · Merced · Joined Jul 2011 · Points: 0

Did anyone say illusion dweller yet?

Everyone is giving you things sub 5.10, but illusion dweller is worth trying. 

Nathaniel Johnstone · · Portland · Joined Jun 2023 · Points: 15

UPDATE: Hey all, so me and my partner broke up and she was going to be going out there with me and I no longer have a belayer now. So I wont be doing this trip this december but I will be going out there hopefully another time this year and ill give yall a trip report then. Thabnks again for all the route suggestions and im stoked to try the fun and possibly spicy reccs!

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Trad Climbing
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