Climbing Goals for 2024

Fitness goals went down the drain due to nonstop travel the past few months.... but I unexpectedly got to climb the Lotus Flower, the Mendenhall, volcanic rock in Tenerife and some limestone in Slovenia, so it's a fair trade. One of my goals was also to bolt my first FA this year and that's increasingly looking like it won't happen as well...

I’ve given up on goals cause they’ve changed so much.

My current status is three V6 sends and many V5 sends with three near flash, keeping my body centred more to take weight off my hands, weighted two handed hang on 15mm edges with plus 60 pounds. Got back into crack climbing at the gym sending 2 off hands cracks.

Getting ready to climb at the”most difficult gym in the world”.

And prepping myself to climb Joshua Tree this season.

I've managed to achieve every goal I never set. I'm on track again and still in 2024 for having achieved no goals at all.

Its fucking great!

My goal is to put up with the pain in my ankle till feb. when I get it replaced.

Due to the kindness of strangers lending me shoes and harness and belay, TR'd a pitch in Cikola a few days ago. Good enough.

The rest of the goals went out the window last June. Other life stuff happens sometimes.

GOALS:

- 1 Lead 5.5 / 5.6 / 5.7 at Seneca Rocks (Critter Crack, Le Gourmet/Front C, Ecstasy, Thais, Conn's West /  Conn's East)

- 2 Follow harder climbs @ Seneca (5.8 / 5.9)

- 3 Lead Angelfire @ Reeds Creek (5.10b/c sport) 

- 3 Tick more 5.10a climbs at nearby sport crags

- 4 Figure + dial in TR solo setup

- 5 Visit more crags in Smokehole Canyon region

- 6 Travel and climb in North Carolina (Looking Glass, Pilot, or Rumbling Bald?) this fall

- 7 2 hours of consistent movement practice / climbing skills learning time per week

- 8 Focus on crack climbing technique with specific routes in mind (Scuttle, Le Gourmet, Holy Mackarel, Neck Press, Critter Crack)

- 9 TR Project with eventual goal to lead Ed's Fudge Shop (5.9+/10a) on gear. This may be a next spring / summer goal, but I think I can do it before winter! Really sweet crack climb.

Update - last forum post was end of September.

- MET / EXCEEDED Goals 1, 2, 4, 5, 7(?) and 6. Had a fantastic fall thus far with solid leads in the 5s and 6s at Seneca, with some 7s in mind to lead soon. Been TRing/following 7s and 8s, making great progress, also worked on a few 5.10 routes at nearby crags but would like to push towards sport climbing more with winter travel destinations (Thailand!) in mind. TR solo setup has been practiced and dialed, going to start working on hard stuff and running laps soon.

- STILL TO DO 7(?), 8, 9(?). Haven't had any dedicated movement / technique learning time, but have been climbing a bunch, probably 2-3 days a week. Need to be specific and just dedicate a session in towards specific movement goals / learning. In regards to 8, I have made improvement in my crack climbing/jamming abilities, but want to spend more time on routes that aren't my style/in this vein. #9 might happen in the spring or fall, tbd.

- ABANDONED 3, 9? for #3, I don't really feel a need to focus on this particular climb anymore. Would like to get back and work on other routes instead, have quite a few in mind. #9 - would still like to climb this route, but it's likely to be in the shade most of the winter / hard to dedicate time to. Will see how the sun treats me and look to send/work in the spring if fall/winter doesn't turn out.

UPDATED WINTER GOALS:

- Continue to lead more trad @ Seneca! 5.4 thru 5.6s, maybe a 5.7 this year if I find the right climb. Follow on 7s, start really thinking about potential next leads.

- Sport climb! Go back and redpoint some 10s that have given me hangs / trouble. Have climbed all of these with varying degreees of success, but would like to be more successful? ( Lifers, Bridgeburners, Crescendo (TR), Reaching Conclusions, Sea of Tranquility, Hunting Unicorns, Catfish Strangler.)

- More hard sport climbs. More 10s! Reeds Creek, Smokehole crags, other places.

- TR solo laps when possible / when partners are not available.

- Climbing trip during Thanksgiving. Utilize holiday time to get some cool sends and climb some new places!

- Dedicated movement / climbing learning time per week. 1 hour minimum, outside of normal climbing hours. Also - should have an specific goal with each session in terms of movement/technique.

- Crack climbing! Learning diverse climbing styles helps with gains across all forms of climbing.

That's me! Sorry for the long one. How's everyone else coming along?

F r i t zwrote:

Mine: 

- Complete Power Company 12-week training plan done

- Finish off every route at Silver Mountain in the Upper Peninsula (five remaining) done

- Send Golden Heart Direct (5.12d) on gear done

- Send Oz (5.12b) at Palisade Head in under five attempts. done

- Send a 5.12c in the Red incomplete

- FA overhanging offwidth at the new "local" crag done 

- [not climbing] Shave two hours off my time at Marji Gesick withdrew

With just over two weeks left in the year, I thought I'd check back in. How did your 2024 goals go? Safe spray zone, don't be bashful.

I was pretty stoked to greenpoint my 5.12 project , a 130' technical face climb with tenuous moves above somewhat zesty gear. The upper crux required liebacking an arete over a green #0 Z4.

 

Tanner Jameswrote:

What’s up brotha Fritz! Each new year I like to set just 3 goals for the year, more than that I find a can’t really go all in quite as effectively. This years big 3 are:

- Denali

- Yosemite triple

- A major expedition to the Greater Ranges

ideally in that order, we’ll see though! Lots of smaller checkpoints and to-do’s but those are the priorities. Always more to do

Well we got Denali 

and we got the triple+

And wound up pushing our fall expedition to India due to various reasons. All in all happy with the year though! And about ready to cement the big 3 for 2025.

Nice work Fritz!

My big climbing goal was to climb my first 5.12 this fall season, and I ended up climbing seven of them! It’s been awesome to have so many cool climbs opened up to me.

Non-climbing goal was to run my first half marathon in under 2 hours, which I did today, finishing at 1:48.

Cory Nwrote:

On sight a 5.12- crack

Climb a desert tower (I never have)

Redpoint 5.11+ sport route

Try bouldering again

Get back to training fingers

On sight a 5.12- crack (incomplete)

Climb a desert tower (incomplete)

Redpoint 5.11+ sport route (incomplete)

Try bouldering again (incomplete)

Get back to training fingers (incomplete)

Turns out I’m not very goal oriented. I do whatever is the most fun that day. I ended up pivoting in the spring to running for the season due to training for the Bears Ears Ultra 30k. I ended up placing 10th in my first trail race and my 3rd race ever. Was pretty surprised by that. Set me up for a good season of running. Some other non-climbing highlights: I did my first 14er which was super cool and my father in-law taught me how to fish.

To onsight 5.12- one must climb that grade frequently. This I did not do, I think I maybe climbed two? It wasn’t a year of climbing hard for me and that’s ok. I focused instead on route development  prepping for the upcoming ban on new routes in IC.

My friend Adam and I made plans to climb a tower, during the week I was working on buy a condo, I had to bail (I hate bailing) to go see a condo, which turned out to be a good thing because we bought it, but it meant I missed the tower.

I think I went sport climbing 2 times this year and didn’t end up climbing anywhere near my limit.

I took my little nephew bouldering, which was awesome, for a kid that is afraid of heights, he didn’t show any fear on the boulders and had a great time. I didn’t end up actually doing any climbing though, just helped him, it was better that way.

and last but not least, I didn’t get back to finger training. I love having strong fingers, but I couldn’t make consistent efforts at training due to my lack of climbing hard.

there is always next year! Maybe I will set an achievable goal and execute. Looking forward to your 2025 thread Fritz. I had an amazing year full of adventure and good times, I have no regrets!

F r i t zwrote:

With just over two weeks left in the year, I thought I'd check back in. How did your 2024 goals go? Safe spray zone, don't be bashful.

I was pretty stoked to greenpoint my 5.12 project , a 130' technical face climb with tenuous moves above somewhat zesty gear. The upper crux required liebacking an arete over a green #0 Z4.

I can hit reasonable grades on board climbs like Kilter and Touchstone, 10 second hangs at >170% BW on 35mm edge, >135% BW on 20mm edge, and recently am able to finally get on the campus board.

Working towards 1-4-7 on the medium rungs for 2025, maybe? On sight 5.12 at the gym, and flash a gym V6.

It's a start...

Thanks for following up Fritz, and congratz on sending the project!

Elaine Gilstromwrote:

I don't have super specific plans, but there are quite a few general things I'd like to do/improve on:

• Improve my cardio and hiking strength so I can do big objectives without the approach killing me (mostly have back country climbing and big walling in mind)
• Get more comfortable aid climbing so I'm able to relax and enjoy it instead of being nauseous while leading C2 (when I'm not scared, aid is actually pretty fun.. but I'm still a bit traumatized from attempting the prow and having my partner rip the entirety of the "C1+" thin section of the first pitch, then immediately having to finish the pitch for them)
• Climb my first alpine route
• Get more comfortable leading 5.11 sport/just send more 5.11s (stretch goal would be to send 5.12a)
• Send 5.12d/5.13a in the gym (or at least stop being intimidated by the grade)

I didn't end up doing almost anything I set out to do. I ended up putting a ton of energy into my education and just didn't have the time to climb as much as I wanted to, let alone train, so the only thing I really succeeded in this year was to get over my intimidating of the grade of 5.12d.. I am still very intimidated by 5.13a though xD

I'm already making solid plans to get after the things I missed this year though. Unless it is raining, I'm going to go climb a wall come spring, be that solo or with a partner.

Cherokee Nuneswrote:

My goals for 2024 are to have no goals.

No plans. No bucket lists. No must-do's. No gotta visits. No routes, no styles, no opportunities. 

I don't want plans for tomorrow. I just want tomorrow to be. And so it shall. 

My goal is to be a rudderless ship on the Sea of Everything!

I'm on track for zero goals attained in 2024. Its been a great year!  

0 goals achieved.  But raised my flash grade 2 letters and sent the hardest alpine grade of my life.  Failing upward…

Awesome list of achievements and sends from everyone. Cool to see everyone's progress and updates.

Month and a half out from my last post, but still made some progress on goals with the weather being uncooperative / holiday travel. Only seven days of outdoor climbing since last post hurts a bit, but heading to Tonsai for part of the winter and excited for some good time on the rock. Some good things - have since red pointed some more 10s, led/followed some cool trad pitches, and been doing TR solo laps. 

Over the next few months from now till March, would like to work through a copy of the Rock Warriors Way, get strong + climb some really cool stuff on the Thailand trip (multis / harder sport), and set myself up for success for a year of better climbing progress and discipline.

Shall we make the 2025 post? Love seeing all of the goal oriented mindsets!

I had a fairly tame list of goals this year regarding climbing since my daughter was born in August and we knew she was coming by early December of 2023. I managed to tick a couple of them but certainly didn't get out as much as I'd hoped pre-baby. Finding time for climbing post-baby is much harder than I expected, but hopefully 2025 will bring new chances as she gets older and can tolerate the crag a little better.

Climb my first multi pitch route - CHECK
     -> I led both pitches of Boardwalk at Ship Rock

Plug gear on more than one route - CHECK
     -> Above plus a few more gear leads at Ship and some attempts at harder routes at Crowders

Solidify that I can climb 5.10 - CHECK
     -> I ticked a handful of various grade 5.10 sport climbs throughout the year

Climb 5.11 - NOPE
     -> I got out sport climbing a few days this year and only gave two burns on a 5.11b before calling it for the day and moving on to other climbs. On my onsight burn I made it to the last bolt before missing a sidepull and taking a massive whip. This was my crux and I needed some more work to dial the sequence.

Sam Rootwrote:

Shall we make the 2025 post? Love seeing all of the goal oriented mindsets!

I've got it scheduled for next week! Start formulating your objectives!

Jesse, congrats on bebegirl! We've got one due at the end of January, which will probably shift my goals heavily toward the Moonboard, maybe even learning how to boulder outdoors :-O

Courtesy of a combination of a finger injury tuesday and running out of hardware, it looks like my development season has come to an end, with 53 new routes put up totaling over 5000 feet of new climbing. If you include the routes I "mentored" for or routes that I helped with but wasn't the "primary" developer for, I'm well over a vertical mile on the year. It was an absolute blast seeing things come together and spending time in the places I loved most. I got to get a bit of the community involved as well, either bolting, cleaning, or climbing new routes with over 25 different individuals over the course of those routes.

As a trade off, it meant I didn't quite finish the short film (too busy developing) or the guidebook (kept adding new routes), so both of those will bleed into 2025 a bit unfortunately. In the meantime I also climbed some of my hardest routes to date, learned to lead rope solo (and did a couple lines ground-up from stances lead rope solo), and got to knock off some bucket list routes/areas.

A lot is in flux for 2025 - the radical sabbatical is coming to an end and I need to find a job for real. With the guidebook coming out, who knows how the character of the area might change (hopefully it won't), but the urgency and priority won't be there like it was this year. So it's hard to pick a strong goal - I just hope to still be having fun in a sustainable way with the sport in 2025 right now.

F r i t zwrote:

I've got it scheduled for next week! Start formulating your objectives!

Will do!

Jesse, congrats on bebegirl! We've got one due at the end of January, which will probably shift my goals heavily toward the Moonboard, maybe even learning how to boulder outdoors :-O

Cool!

Moonboard is really rough on the fingers. Kilter may be better to start off with? Campus as well?

Of course, I’m very excited about campus board at the moment.