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Northeast Crack Bouldering

Ben Molloy · · Keene, NY · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

Ouraboras (spelling?) at Snowy Mtn, V7

petzl logic · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2013 · Points: 730
Nol H wrote:

Also in local crack bouldering news, Keelhauled in the Gunks got a second ascent by Dustin Portzline and third ascent by Kathy Karlo, which doubled as the first female ascent! A 40ish foot offwidth roof, 8' off the ground! Probably thee testpiece of northeastern crack bouldering there... Link to an Instagram post was added to the OP

is there video of keelhauled?

Gunther Havel · · Portsmouth, NH · Joined Jul 2018 · Points: 260

Two harder ones that I don't see mentioned yet are The Next Message at Pawtuckaway and Basket Case at Lynn Woods. Both require some creative jamming to make them go at a reasonable grade.

Hari Rau-Murthy · · Yorktown Heights, NY (go t… · Joined May 2018 · Points: 45

Armeaters crack at the gunks is nice.  Oliphant crack at powerlinez is okay.

Nol H · · Vermont · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 2,160
petzl logic wrote:

is there video of keelhauled?

There's some footage featured in A Day With The Bank Manager, starting at 17:27.

"You think Rich used gloves like that back in the day?"

"Pfftffftftf I have no idea to be honest... He taped up right? He's a looney toon but he's not that crazy right?"

"Shorts, tee shirt, no tape"

brian kendall · · henniker, nh · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 0

Does anyone know where Gratrunka is in kinsman notch? I've seen a picture of it and it looks awesome, but I haven't been able to find it. 

Multipitch Boulderer · · United Kingdom · Joined Oct 2021 · Points: 0
Nol H wrote:

There's some footage featured in A Day With The Bank Manager, starting at 17:27.

"You think Rich used gloves like that back in the day?"

"Pfftffftftf I have no idea to be honest... He taped up right? He's a looney toon but he's not that crazy right?"

"Shorts, tee shirt, no tape"

This link is now password protected, does anyone know where I could rent/buy it or otherwise stream it?

I watched it a couple of years ago and loved it, was hoping for a repeat viewing

Eli B · · noco · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 6,067
brian kendall wrote:

Does anyone know where Gratrunka is in kinsman notch? I've seen a picture of it and it looks awesome, but I haven't been able to find it. 

I believe it’s in the kinsman notch bouldering guide book 

Bryce Dahlgren · · Boston, Ma · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 216

Does anyone have a location (and grade) for the Panther roof crack at Pawtuckaway?

Nol H · · Vermont · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 2,160
Bryce Dahlgren wrote:

Does anyone have a location (and grade) for the Panther roof crack at Pawtuckaway?

It's in the lastest Pawtuckaway GunksApp update and maybe in the new guidebook too. V6

Bryce Dahlgren · · Boston, Ma · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 216

Thanks, but could I get a brief description because I don’t possess either of those guides.

Nol H · · Vermont · Joined Dec 2014 · Points: 2,160
Bryce Dahlgren wrote:

Thanks, but could I get a brief description because I don’t posses either of those guides.

It's somewhere on the far end of South Mountain, I haven't been. The GunksApp is great, I bought the Pawtuckaway one when it was like $10 and once you buy it you get all updates for free. https://gunksapps.com/pawtuckaway.html

Dogarf · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,716

-Great footage of Sins Not Disco the crown jewel of the Kinsman Notch OW circuit:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yrQXOfJiEr4

-Location of Sins Not Disco, Gratrunka, and Chainsaw Dick Punch, all OW cracks listed below. If you are into hard crack bouldering, sins not disco is not to be missed. 

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/125146167/disco-area-bouldering

Nick Budka · · Adirondacks · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 187
MattWallace wrote:
I would be very cautious to call Black Jack Crack a boulder... 30+ feet with the crux near the top is not something that should be promoted for ropeless ascents.

Blackjack crack is a fantastic boulder problem although the grade is strange in that there are no v2 climbers who should take that thing on sans corde. However serious and proud it is, it is not a difficult line for a competent crack climber, and can be made reasonably safe for a boulder ascent with a bit of a built up landing, a couple spotters and 5 or 6 pads. If you flat back from the topout, you’re in for a world of hurt (or not…) but I think it is unlikely to result in serious injury beyond a sprained ankle if you land feet first from the crux. As a trad lead it is great but placing gear really messes up the flow and for the most fun I think this route is best climbed on either TR or as a highball. 

G D · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 1,828

Not sure if I'm allowed to share indoor crack boulders (feel free to delete Nol) Petra Cliffs Climbing Center in Burlington Vermont is hosting a Crack Boulder Comp January 4th! There's a beginner clinic beforehand, a crack wrestling tournament afterwards, a crack hang challenge and a couple endurance crack challenges. Cost to participate is $15 and the event is a fundraiser for Vermont's local climbing organization CRAG-VT we hope to see the northeast crack climbing community represent! (comp starts at 2 so you can get a ski in before) here's the link: app.rockgympro.com/b/?&bo=f493faf9805443b6bc50c623c6e3bdf0

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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