Climbers playing god

Yo,

Recently noticed some pool floaties jammed in the back of a classic crack.  Rockfall has occurred recently at this cliff, and i figured it was someone trying to make sure their proj stays ringlocks and doesnt become hands (or fall off) due to freeze/thaw.  The pool floaties are on a less than vertical section and seem purposefully wedged to divert water.

Got me thinking of the engineering project at the top of cannon in NH, where a concrete luge was created to (unsuccessfully) divert water from the old man feature.

Anybody have any anecdotes of climbers going to huge lengths to preserve climbs or secure ideal conditions?  Glued flakes/holds, bolted on/reinforced holds, engineering projects?  Im amused by the creativity and stubbornness of our community.  Thanks!

Just to clarify, the "engineering project " on top of Cannon Mountain was created and maintained by the New Hampshire government, not climbers, in an ( ultimately unsuccessful) effort to preserve the Old Man of the Mountain profile--the New Hampshire state symbol.

White Lines @ Bradley had this sock jammed into the boulder, which would turn into a sock icicle in winter, diverting the ice off the face, gave me the lolz.
I think via feratta and such non sense to be more like ‘playing god’ or just giving her the finger.

How many posts until someone says; all sport crags?

King Gluey Louie, of course.

Rerouting of water to create ice climbs is the most obvious answer.

If you are talking about the cracks at Quarry Wall, I don't think water diversion is the reason for the pool noodles. Those cracks still have plenty of seepage that seems completely unimpeded. I have heard they are there to keep birds from nesting in the cracks and thus preventing poop streaks down the routes. This is also speculation as far as I know, but at least fits the evidence somewhat better.

Look into the route Manufractured at Bellefont Quarry

The rocker block on moonlight buttress

Alex Rwrote:

If you are talking about the cracks at Quarry Wall, I don't think water diversion is the reason for the pool noodles. Those cracks still have plenty of seepage that seems completely unimpeded. I have heard they are there to keep birds from nesting in the cracks and thus preventing poop streaks down the routes. This is also speculation as far as I know, but at least fits the evidence somewhat better.

That sounds more reasonable, but any subsequent bird poop-less ascents ought to be recorded as an aid climb.

Nathan Mwrote:

Yo,

Recently noticed some pool floaties jammed in the back of a classic crack.  Rockfall has occurred recently at this cliff, and i figured it was someone trying to make sure their proj stays ringlocks and doesnt become hands (or fall off) due to freeze/thaw.  The pool floaties are on a less than vertical section and seem purposefully wedged to divert water.

Got me thinking of the engineering project at the top of cannon in NH, where a concrete luge was created to (unsuccessfully) divert water from the old man feature.

Anybody have any anecdotes of climbers going to huge lengths to preserve climbs or secure ideal conditions?  Glued flakes/holds, bolted on/reinforced holds, engineering projects?  Im amused by the creativity and stubbornness of our community.  Thanks!

There's a pretty classic climb in boulder canyon with a legit bolted on hold. 

I have considered in the past drilling a hole in some rock to divert an annoying small seeping stream of water that runs on the crux footholds of the climb but decided it better to not do that. 

Green Valley Gap in Southern Utah has a bunch of glue holding key holds together on overhanging rock.

Large semi-detatched block secured to wall with a chain and a couple of bolts. This would annoy me if it wasn't well-engineered and invisible from the ground. I believe the block loosened long after the route was established, and the character and grade would have changed seriously if it were trundled.

I really should climb The Split Pillar on the Grand Wall of the Stawamus Chief this coming season, before it comes down

Someone ought to put up a few steel support poles around the Mexican Hat. That thing will likely go at some point. Maybe even this century. 

Nathan Mwrote:

Yo,

Recently noticed some pool floaties jammed in the back of a classic crack.  Rockfall has occurred recently at this cliff, and i figured it was someone trying to make sure their proj stays ringlocks and doesnt become hands (or fall off) due to freeze/thaw.  The pool floaties are on a less than vertical section and seem purposefully wedged to divert water.

Got me thinking of the engineering project at the top of cannon in NH, where a concrete luge was created to (unsuccessfully) divert water from the old man feature.

Anybody have any anecdotes of climbers going to huge lengths to preserve climbs or secure ideal conditions?  Glued flakes/holds, bolted on/reinforced holds, engineering projects?  Im amused by the creativity and stubbornness of our community.  Thanks!

Most ice-climbing crags?

Logan Petersonwrote:

Large semi-detatched block secured to wall with a chain and a couple of bolts. This would annoy me if it wasn't well-engineered and invisible from the ground. I believe the block loosened long after the route was established, and the character and grade would have changed seriously if it were trundled.

definitely seen a few of those. Remember one specifically on Moonlight Buttress. (should have continued reading first, someone else beat me to it).

Daniel Joderwrote:

Someone ought to put up a few steel support poles around the Mexican Hat. That thing will likely go at some point. Maybe even this century. 

Recall The Cobra in the Fisher Towers in Utah.

Jabroni McChufferson wrote:

there’s this place called ten sleep- perfect pockets man, perfect pockets 

What does this have to do with the OP?

Marc801 Cwrote:

What does this have to do with the OP?

Climbers drilling pockets where God didn't want them.

Marc801 Cwrote:

What does this have to do with the OP?

So tempted to just respond with "whoosh" - but I'll be nice.

1.  The OP asked about anecdotes about "securing idea conditions".  The "perfect pockets" at Ten Sleep (or Wild Iris or any other of a number of comfortized places) are such

2.  "There is a place" - clever reference to the opening of one of the episodes of "The Climb" with a stoned Momoa pontificating to a stoned Sharma.  

There is a piece of pipe insulation foam jammed in a lower angle section of Frank’s Wild Years in Golden. I always thought it was there to keep the crack from eating cams? Who knows this history of this one? Sure surprised me when I climbed it and reached into the crack and felt that thing. I guess it could be diverting water in the winter as well.