Ohm Assisted Breaking Device

Hello!

One of my climbing partners is about 80 pounds less than me and I am a trad leader. I am concerned about doing any serious multipitch climbing considering the difference.

What are your thoughts on this device for trad climbing? In the event of a fall, do You think the piece of pro with this device attached would even hold from the upward force exerted? Nuts probably wouldn’t work, cams might if placement is bomber.

Thanks for the input and here is the link to what I’m talking about:

https://www.rei.com/product/231769/edelrid-ohm-assisted-braking-device?sku=2317690001&store=68&CAWELAID=120217890018296912&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=109205716205&CATCI=pla-420034889999&cm_mmc=PLA_Google%7C21700000001700551_2317690001%7C420034889999%7CNB%7C71700000074091888&gad_source=1&gclid=CjwKCAiA3Na5BhAZEiwAzrfagJSDia23ig6dXuDEx1dAqQvVLJwsRq8cvKor06cHqvfEh-riSCPWJhoCGpUQAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

The Ohm is not supposed to be used for trad and what helps give the ohm stopping power is when the belayer is standing a little bit away from the wall. On a multipitch climb that's often not possible if you're belaying from a small ledge. The weight difference between you and your partner is unfortunately dangerously out of balance

There are other threads on this topic that may be helpful - here's one

Additional info - "It is meant for both indoor and outdoor sport climbing use. It is not recommended for trad climbing because the OHM will pull up on the gear, which is most likely the opposite direction of how the gear was placed. Also, the placement connected to the OHM will be loaded with a higher force than usual, due to the friction caused by the engaging OHM. The endless hypothetical situations make recommending the OHM for trad use impossible. "

Anecdotally I've noticed on multipitch climbs there's typically enough wander and rope drag to negate the weight difference. I frequently use an Ohm in the gym/single pitch but have never felt the need for it on a multi.

Just don't whip before you get a few pieces in (generally good advice) or belay off the anchor

Just bring a haul bag stuffed with rocks to weigh down your belayer. /S

But more seriously if you can build a solid anchor (especially with a bolted anchor) you should be able to use that to take a lot of load off your belayer and limit their travel if you were to fall. I wouldn't use the ohm.

I outweigh a few of my partners by almost 100 lbs.  If my belayer is on the ground I will attach her to my backpack with some added rocks.  You could also build a ground anchor and have your partner belay directly off of it.  But, that will take much of the dynamic belay away.  On multi pitch, you can belay directly off the anchor.  Of course, your anchor needs to be bomber in the upward direction of pull.  I believe they call this a banshee belay.  Lot's of threads on it. 

Maybe a fixed-point belay (need bolts or upward pull protection) with a munter?

I've used an Ohm on outdoor multipitch climbs with my son since he was ~9 years old, on 100s of pitches. Even if he's at an anchor that's solid for upward pull, I just liked that he wouldn't experience huge forces if I were to fall/hang/lower. You do need to think about positioning of the first piece relative to the belayer, and obviously make the first piece good for upward pull, but in general it works well. On some pitches I decide that it's just not a good setup and skip it.

If you haven't bought the Ohm, though, get a Raed Zaed instead. It's far superior--doesn't lock up as badly which is insanely annoying when you want to clip quickly.

I have done this, and moved away from it rather quickly. It never failed, but it was significantly more irritating than just building an anchor that we trusted to resist upward pull, which you really want to do anyway. As far as I can tell it's fairly low consequence. Worst thing that happens, provided you account for the zippering issue, is the ohm piece pops out, slides down the rope, and your belayer takes a bit of a ride. That said, the ohm kind of sucks on wandering routes. It adds to rope drag issues that already often exist on multipitch trad lines, and sometimes catches/snags in ways that require intervention. This can be hard to give if belayer/climber cant see eachother or communicate well. Maybe worthwhile in specific scenarious (hanging belay, climb doesn't wander, expecting lots of big falls), but thats outside my experience.

On top of adding a lot of extra weight to your rack it just makes sense to have confidence in your anchors. My wife is significantly less weight than i am and when she belays me from the ground i generally tie her down to something near by like a tree, boulder, fat roots etc etc using a long sling direct to her harness. May place a piece or two low if the rock allows it. But on multipitch, shes totally fine with a solid anchor to catch a fall. Trying to use an ohm would be reckless and cumbersome. All companies who make similar devices warn against using it for trad. Sport only. 

Fantastic advice everyone, I’ll make sure to anchor my partner to the ground/make anchors to endure upward forces.

Thanks for the replies!

Greg Dwrote:

I outweigh a few of my partners by almost 100 lbs.  If my belayer is on the ground I will attach her to my backpack with some added rocks.  You could also build a ground anchor and have your partner belay directly off of it.  But, that will take much of the dynamic belay away.  On multi pitch, you can belay directly off the anchor.  Of course, your anchor needs to be bomber in the upward direction of pull.  I believe they call this a banshee belay.  Lot's of threads on it. 

Just tether to a ground anchor using dynamic materials like the other end of the rope.  You could also consider a Kong Kisa if you're really worried about it.

Sam Schwinghammerwrote:

Just tether to a ground anchor using dynamic materials like the other end of the rope.  You could also consider a Kong Kisa if you're really worried about it.

Who said I’m worried.

Did you actually read my post. If you did you would not have posted that. Even a dynamic rope will not give much off a dynamic belay in a leader fall with such a short length.

I offered the thread the option of a ground anchor if rocks were not available or someone would prefer a ground anchor. But I don’t recommend it for this situation. I prefer actual dynamics. Not 3 or 4 feet of dynamic rope.  That’s not a dynamic belay. 

Greg Dwrote:

Who said I’m worried.

Did you actually read my post. If you did you would not have posted that. Even a dynamic rope will not give much off a dynamic belay in a leader fall with such a short length.

I offered the thread the option of a ground anchor if rocks were not available or someone would prefer a ground anchor. But I don’t recommend it for this situation. I prefer actual dynamics. Not 3 or 4 feet of dynamic rope.  That’s not a dynamic belay. 

Uh, impersonal "you" dude.

Also, you can get fairly close to a proper freestanding dynamic belay with a bit of slack in the system, if you and your belayer decide that's the priority for the route.(Again, impersonal you)

This is a very interesting thread!

I use an Ohm a lot in the gym, and sometimes outside on Sport, and as Elderid states not to use the Ohn on Trad, I have not.  

I agree that on many Trad MPs rope drag will help, and with single pitch a ground anchor or "bag of rocks" can generally be employed.  What about a splitter crack type pitch on a Trad MP?  Has anyone ever intentionally Z-clipped to add rope drag to an otherwise straight line pitch, with the lower cam placed for upward pull?  I am not suggesting this, just asking if this is ever done.  Obviously if you fell before the next placement after the z-clip configuration, it could potentially really suck...

Josh Rappoportwrote:

This is a very interesting thread!

I use an Ohm a lot in the gym, and sometimes outside on Sport, and as Elderid states not to use the Ohm on Trad, I have not.  

I agree that on many Trad MPs rope drag will help, and with single pitch a ground anchor or "bag of rocks" can generally be employed.  What about a splitter crack type pitch on a Trad MP?  Has anyone ever intentionally Z-clipped to add rope drag to an otherwise straight line pitch, with the lower cam placed for upward pull?  I am not suggesting this, just asking if this is ever done.  Obviously if you fell before the next placement after the z-clip configuration, it could potentially really suck...

Has it been done, yes.  Is it viable in a pinch, no not really, too much drag.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fbR2MyxjmxE&t=9s

Add an extra piece to Z clip just above your belayers head. Then when there is enough rope drag to help with the catch, take out the Z.