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Crack and trad climbing training

Original Post
Lars Edmunds · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 0

Young climber only climbed two cracks. One on toprope one on easy trad lead. Looking for ways to train for cracks and trad during winter. Would love some advice from people more experienced on how to build technique and strength for it. And Some advice on how to get going with trad climbing because I’ve found it hard to get started. Any trad climbers near Utah county that would be down to show me in person or climb with me too? (Please respond even if you can’t climb with me or show in person I need advice.)

Igor Chained · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 110

Going to the gym and climbing up and down the cracks by myself to build pain tolerance and refine my technique has helped me the most. You can go up like 8ft then climb down. Don't bother roping up until you can stand on your feet.

Then build a horizontal crack machine to really dial it.

Lars Edmunds · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 0
Igor Chainedwrote:

Going to the gym and climbing up and down the cracks by myself to build pain tolerance and refine my technique has helped me the most. You can go up like 8ft then climb down. Don't bother roping up until you can stand on your feet.

Then build a horizontal crack machine to really dial it.

Thanks. What I find the hardest is the cracks at the gym I go to are very polished and to small to get my feet into and the wall and inner crack are slippery and polished so I’m hoping by Training on those so normal cracks are easy. 

Igor Chained · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2016 · Points: 110

Yeah, the polish helps cause nothing outside will be as bad, unless it's the start of bushwhack crack lol.

What gym do you go to? Momentum Sandy and Millcreek have some nice hand cracks.

Lars Edmunds · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2023 · Points: 0
Igor Chainedwrote:

Yeah, the polish helps cause nothing outside will be as bad, unless it's the start of bushwhack crack lol.

What gym do you go to? Momentum Sandy and Millcreek have some nice hand cracks.

I go to the quarry and Lehi momentum. There are cracks at the quarry but they’re tough. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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