Is the Naked Edge really that intimidating?

I'm heading out for my second CO climbing trip this fall. I'm currently working through some classic routes here in the Southeast at or near 5.11, with the eventual goal of getting to the top of the Naked Edge in Eldo. For some reason, and it may entirely be all in my head, this route scares the shit out of me. I've built it up that if I'm not confident I can climb every pitch on site, I should stay away due to safety / not wanting to get in the way / slippery Eldo runouts and sandbags and a myriad of other issues. If I'm able to get some of the benchmark 5.11 multi pitch routes here in North Carolina under my belt by the fall, which is currently entirely plausible as we enter the "in" season for high country cragging, would it be feasible to give the Edge a shot in October? Is the fear that I've built in my head earned for this route? 

If you can comfortably lead NC routes like Cornflake crack, Shredded wheat, Wild Hickory Nuts, Chaos out of control, Fat Lady to Encore, Phantom of the Opera, Open Book, The Odyssey, Original route on Whitesides. You'll do fine on the Edge.  It'd be good to have done all of these first but comfortably leading Cornflake crack, the Odyssey, and Open Book are mandatory I'd say. 

Naked Edge has 3 pitches of 5.11 so work that into your training. Its commiting but not death defying. Also, Eldo has tons of other easier routes so there's lots to do if you're not up for the Edge. And its not a bad idea to do easier routes there first. Yellow Spur, Outer Space, Handcracker, among many others.

Good luck!

Idk your ability level, but based on the limited information I have in your post I think you're majorly overhyping it.  Pitch 2 is the scariest but it's 5.10-.  People hype up the Bombay and while it's intimidating it isn't as intimidating, imo, as your post makes it sound.  All other pitches seemed well protected to me.  I wouldn't get the fame of the route in your head too much, it's just a rock like any others you've been climbing in the southeast.    

chummerwrote:

If you can comfortably lead NC routes like Cornflake crack, Shredded wheat, Wild Hickory Nuts, Chaos out of control, Fat Lady to Encore, Phantom of the Opera, Open Book, The Odyssey, Original route on Whitesides. You'll do fine on the Edge.  It'd be good to have done all of these first but comfortably leading Cornflake crack, the Odyssey, and Open Book are mandatory I'd say. 

Did you read the tick list I have on my desk?
In all seriousness, Cornflake, Shredded Wheat, and the Open Book are the three routes I'd really like to get on this year to gauge my progress. If I can get 2/3, I think I'll end up on the Edge this fall. 

... its not a bad idea to do easier routes there first. Yellow Spur, Outer Space, Handcracker, among many others.

Good luck!

We did the Bastille Crack last year as my first lead in Eldo, so I 100% intend to get on Outer Space and Blind Faith. Based on that, we'll look at the Edge too. 

Appreciate it!!!

Matt Jwrote:

Idk your ability level, but based on the limited information I have in your post I think you're majorly overhyping it.  ... it's just a rock like any others you've been climbing in the southeast.    

This makes me feel... better. It's nice to know it's mostly in my head, and not, you know, actually a big deal! Thanks!! 

I would say the sporty "plug some bomber small gear and go" routes in the New are a better comparison than stuff at the Glass, but do Wide Country into Outer Space and if that goes well you'll be fine.

The bastille crack and the edge are worlds apart…. I would say tick some harder 10’s first before hyping up doing the edge. If your cruising your first few days maybe go for it. Maury put up a great link up to test yourself or super slab or vertigo which is super safe and you can pull through if needed. Once past the second pitch on the edge  you can’t just bail easily.  Also, it’s busy in the fall and if you let people pass it could take you awhile. Like anything in Eldo it’s hard to onsight so take how long it will take you to finish into consideration Especially if you’re doing touch and go as an approach. Most of the Eldo climbers didn’t do the edge there second time in the park. Usually building up lots of 10’s and 11’s before doing the edge.  It’s not R rated like other climbs but it’s committing and eldo tends to feel stiff for the grade whether you climb here a lot or not.  Good luck! 

Cornflake Crack is a way better route than the Naked Edge and if you can lead both pitches on that you should be able to do the Edge. May want to do some easier stuff in Eldo first to get used to the rock though. 

Brian Hwrote:

eldo tends to feel stiff for the grade whether you climb here a lot or not.  Good luck! 

Eldo is pretty soft unless you compare it to the rest of Colorado.

Brian Hwrote:

Once past the second pitch on the edge  you can’t just bail easily.

Just want to correct this for posterity. With a 60m rope and the current fixed anchor on top of p3, you can bail back to the ground from the top of pitch 4 (bombay) without leaving any gear. I've not personally confirmed this as I haven't had to bail off the edge (yet at least), but have it on good authority.

Eldo is pretty soft?  Another myth. . .

Not sure how cracky NC is, but I found the redpoint crux of the Naked Edge to be not pumping out on the final handcrack (thumb pump, not forearm). I'm sure Indian Creek crushers think this is the easiest section of the entire route. Anyways, make sure to do some enduro laps on hand and/or thin hand cracks to prepare for this thing.

Well, October is over, did you send the edge OP? 

Fantastic question! We didn't end up getting to try it - we were planning a few days in Eldo, and we only ended up getting one morning, which wasn't ideal but we made it work! However, due to what happened in NC this fall, all the NC 5.11s I was planning on gauging myself on were inaccessible, which was the least of the problems obviously. I'll be heading out again next year, and hopefully with a few more multi-pitch 5.11 leads under my belt, so I'll keep this thread updated. 

Caleb BRwrote:

Fantastic question! We didn't end up getting to try it - we were planning a few days in Eldo, and we only ended up getting one morning, which wasn't ideal but we made it work! However, due to what happened in NC this fall, all the NC 5.11s I was planning on gauging myself on were inaccessible, which was the least of the problems obviously. I'll be heading out again next year, and hopefully with a few more multi-pitch 5.11 leads under my belt, so I'll keep this thread updated. 

If you want to see how Eldo 5.11 feels with better gear, Vertigo is a good option too. IMO the dihedral pitch is more technically difficult than anything on the edge, but it's a good intro to the style in Eldo with gear at your chest for all the hardest moves.