What Does Your Woody Look Like??? v3.0

A hold swap could be cool. I make a bunch of wood holds that are pretty amazing in my humble opinion (@mayfieldholds on the instas). I’ve also got a lot of assorted Grasshopper holds from a sale they had when they were moving warehouse locations here in SLC. 

I'll plan to make a standalone thread, also, but figure since this is the home-wall owners spot that many will see it here.  For the sake of managing exchanges, I thought it would be easiest as a Google Group, which I created HERE.   Feel free to join if you're interested in freshening up your wall.  

Tristan, your holds look awesome!  I've made some wood holds out of scrap lumber, but nothing nearly that pro.  

Thanks Paul! Just had a kid a couple months ago so not much hold making going on recently but I do hope to change that!

Paul Lwrote:

I'll plan to make a standalone thread, also, but figure since this is the home-wall owners spot that many will see it here.  For the sake of managing exchanges, I thought it would be easiest as a Google Group, which I created HERE.   Feel free to join if you're interested in freshening up your wall.  

Tristan, your holds look awesome!  I've made some wood holds out of scrap lumber, but nothing nearly that pro.  

Hey Paul, I get an error message when trying to access the group.

New set on my adjustable angle 8x10

Does anyone have a good setup for storing large pads when not in use? Preferably easy setup/take down to make it more likely that the wall gets used.

John Clarkwrote:

New set on my adjustable angle 8x10

Freestanding?

Dan- my plan that I havent done yet: a relatively taut net, similar to soccer goal netting with carabiners on 4 sides and the middle with hooks to match on the wall. 

Seth Bleazardwrote:

Freestanding?

Yeah, grasshopper ninja 2.0 frame. If you are a reno parent into boards, I keep the board at a cool 68°F in the summer.

Taylor Owenswrote:

Dan- my plan that I havent done yet: a relatively taut net, similar to soccer goal netting with carabiners on 4 sides and the middle with hooks to match on the wall. 

If you try this, I'd be interested to hear how it works. This is a long term plan so I'm in no rush. I was also toying with the idea of a Murphy bed setup for the pads, similarly clipping a platform to the wall.

I followed Daoru Wang’s moonboard build on YouTube, ended up having to reinforce the very top side but now the wall is bomber. No movement at all. 43 degree moonboard 2024 is pretty high tension, but that’s kind of what I was looking for in a training board anyways. Really love how this one turned out, and I didn’t have to compromise on the design in regards to the spaced out support beams

My dad and I built this wall about a year ago. I had never climbed before but I decided to jump right in on a 45 degree wall and now I am addicted. I started really working on spraying it out at the beginning of the summer and now I don’t want to stop. I need more small footholds and some wood crimps. But I’m pretty content on the density of the board for now. The kicker is a bit too big and that is really the only thing that I would change if I were to do it all over again. The second picture is the wall the day it was built and the first is the wall now. 

Those who’ve painted your walls, what type of paint did you use? Did you texture it at all?

I used leftover paint from painting our interior walls and textured it with fine grain play sand. 3 years later and the paint is holding up just fine. You aren't going to use the texture like you think you will but it does make removing the holds MUCH easier since they stick to the paint. I've read you can powder the banks with chalk for a similar result but I'm not going to do that with every hold when I set a spray wall.

A few notes from my first build:

• Make a realistic budget, it will probably be more expensive than you planned for
• Buy nice panels, I used maple and it was totally worth it. 
• Holds will be your biggest expense by far

This wall is only 8x8 with a 1 ft kicker, but I couldn’t be happier with it. The adjustability is a game changer and can make boulder problems really hard when steepened. I painted it with chalkboard paint and I actually really like the texture of it. I plan on filling out the wall with more holds, but they are $$$. I used the 72 hold per panel plan and it works great, especially with the prevalence of screw on holds. Took 1 week to build by myself with only needing help installing the panels. By far the best training tool I have.

Andrew Dwrote:

A few notes from my first build:

• Make a realistic budget, it will probably be more expensive than you planned for
• Buy nice panels, I used maple and it was totally worth it. 
• Holds will be your biggest expense by far

This wall is only 8x8 with a 1 ft kicker, but I couldn’t be happier with it. The adjustability is a game changer and can make boulder problems really hard when steepened. I painted it with chalkboard paint and I actually really like the texture of it. I plan on filling out the wall with more holds, but they are $$$. I used the 72 hold per panel plan and it works great, especially with the prevalence of screw on holds. Took 1 week to build by myself with only needing help installing the panels. By far the best training tool I have.

Chalkboard paint is a sweet idea. I use colored chalk and symbols to mark my routes on my homeboard and it allows me to have a bunch of problems up on the board waiting for me. The symbols I use are line, circle, infinity, lightning bolt, and star. So you can have routes named and marked Red Line, Red Circle, Red Infinity, Red Bolt, and Red Star, and then you continue that trend with the other colors. I have a data table that hangs next to my wall and I input the info into so I can easily decide what to climb. 

Andrew Dwrote:

A few notes from my first build:

• Make a realistic budget, it will probably be more expensive than you planned for
• Buy nice panels, I used maple and it was totally worth it. 
• Holds will be your biggest expense by far

This wall is only 8x8 with a 1 ft kicker, but I couldn’t be happier with it. The adjustability is a game changer and can make boulder problems really hard when steepened. I painted it with chalkboard paint and I actually really like the texture of it. I plan on filling out the wall with more holds, but they are $$$. I used the 72 hold per panel plan and it works great, especially with the prevalence of screw on holds. Took 1 week to build by myself with only needing help installing the panels. By far the best training tool I have.

Is that a hoist or winch?

Andrew Dwrote:

A few notes from my first build:

• Make a realistic budget, it will probably be more expensive than you planned for
• Buy nice panels, I used maple and it was totally worth it. 
• Holds will be your biggest expense by far

This wall is only 8x8 with a 1 ft kicker, but I couldn’t be happier with it. The adjustability is a game changer and can make boulder problems really hard when steepened. I painted it with chalkboard paint and I actually really like the texture of it. I plan on filling out the wall with more holds, but they are $$$. I used the 72 hold per panel plan and it works great, especially with the prevalence of screw on holds. Took 1 week to build by myself with only needing help installing the panels. By far the best training tool I have.

Looks sick! Ever kick the water heater? Thinking about a similar placement in a limited garage

Jeremy Tillwrote:

Looks sick! Ever kick the water heater? Thinking about a similar placement in a limited garage

Haha, that’s actually a good question. No, even at the most upright angle the wall leans out enough to miss the heater.

The adjustability comes from a winch, to answer a question above.

The wall is surprisingly solid. I thought it would have some bounce just hanging on the chains, but I don’t feel any movement when climbing. 

DIY adjustable wall people: 

1. what's your opinion about placing fixed chain attachment points along the width of the wall? I've noticed most folks have them at the sides but an engineer friend recommended placing them 2' in from each end (i am building a 10' w x 12' h adjustable wall with 12" kicker) 
2. depending on the placement what do you suggest for an "off the shelf" connection point between the climbing wall studs and the cables? initially i was going to screw a ledger across the back of the wall and thru-bolt my attachment points there but I realize that still puts the load on the pull out strength of the screws through the ledger into the back of the studs
3. where would place the attachment point along the wall? where it will form a right angle with the pulley connection or higher?

As an overview i'm building this on the second story of my barn. The kicker is connected with 4" ledger lock screws into a floor joist below and then is braced to prevent wiggling/overturning. An electric hoist will be mounted on top of the kicker and will adjust the wall angle. Fixed cables/chains will then lock the wall in/act as redundancy so the hoist will be unloaded when anyone is actually climbing on it,..any thoughts much appreciated!